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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.337308, -33.735159
This amazing orange wall is visible high through the trees from above the shale ledge track, just before you get to the cable/wire traverse of death leading to Sweet Dreams. It's just like the famous Janicepts Wall at Piddington - a slightly overhung black and orange wall extending left from a stonking corner crack - except Ben Trovato Wall is three times higher and with better rock! All the routes are technical face climbs, usually very sustained and well protected by new bolts (or bomber trad). The rock is very rough in places - bring a good set of finger tips.
- Access Issues: inherited from West Face (Main Area)
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
From the shale ledge track beneath the wall, scramble up the steep vegetated hillside, starting below the big arete (The Swiss Route) and trending left and up metal rungs and fixed ropes. Alternatively you can rap access the crag from above (8 minutes from the carpark) if you know where you are going, have a 100m rope, and enjoy insanely exposed free hanging abseils!
- Descent Notes:
Most of the newer routes have bolted lower-off anchors. For the multipitch routes which top out, it's a very short walk back to the car. Scramble up the hillside for 50m to small cliffline, walk right 30-80m along the base past a little cave then up a short section of fixed rope to arrive at a tourist track. Walk right along this track for 100m back to the carpark.
- Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
Originally known as the Great Red Wall from Rock-Climbs of NSW - S.R.C. Guidebook, 1963. Giles Bradbury added one route and one project in the 80s. The upper pitch of Marxism was done in the 2000s but it wasn't until the 2010s that the majority of the sport routes were established.
The Swiss Route
Not many details about this at all. Starts at 'Colosseum Corner', right across chossy break to arete. Up on right side of arete. Pro is spaced and route wanders out onto the right wall a bit. Will be retrobolted (with permission) soon.
Start: The major exposed arete on the right side of Bentrovarto Wall.
Tricky slabbing and sustained face climbing up the orange streak between The Sublime and the Beautiful and San Pornando. Once an intimidating mixed climb on carrots, it's now been retrobolted into a stellar sport climb. Linking P1 and P2 (requires a 70m rope) makes for a stunning pitch of Blueys face climbing.
Start: Starts 4m right of 'Colosseum Corner', slightly down the hill at belay bolt.
The Sublime and the Beautiful
Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for 'Colosseum Corner' and traverses across Giles route to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route.
FA: Bundy, Frogman, Mr Tonsai, 2009
Long sustained face climbing just right of 'Colosseum Corner' on ringbolts. The upper half follows an orange streak. Hidden lower-off anchors are tucked under the rooflet at end of this streak. Re-thread half way down or use double ropes to get off!
Start: Start as for 'Colosseum Corner'.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2009
The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.
FA: John Ewbank, John Davis, 14th Jan
FA: Zac and Sophie, Direct 1st pitch, 2013
Ben Trovato / Bentrovarto
"Cleverly found" indeed. Named "Bentrovarto" in guidebooks for many decades. However, Bryden says the name was contributed by his German climbing partner on the day, and agrees that using the correct Italian spelling is apt. A grand girdle adventure that spends as much time going across as it does going up! Originally done by starting up Colosseum Corner, it is 18 this way. But ever since the FA most people have climbed the crack 3m L of CC as the first pitch, which is 20. The rest of the route is many grades easier.
FA: Bryden Allen, P Messenbergh, 9th May
The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.
Starts 4m left of 'Ben Trovato' at small tree.
FA: P1 Neil Monteith, P2 Chris Coghill, 2010
Two pitches of wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off, 2nd pitch is a much bigger affair.
Start at the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack, starting up tree.
FA: Phil Sage (pitch 2), 2002
FA: Neil Monteith (pitch 1), 2010
Marxism (Pitch 1 only)
One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. Clamber up tree for a few metres to clip high RB and horizontal break. Launch onto the wall and weave upwards to triple bolt lower-off.
FFA: @nmonteith, 2010
Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top.
FA: Steve Grkovic
Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 5m left of 'Marxism'.
FA: John Ewbank, Bob Smith @ 15 M.3, 1964
FFA: Neil Monteith (p1), 2011
Vespasian's Wall (Pitch 1 only)
25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Bentrovarto wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Once p2 is open, p1 will be a 33m pitch incorporating an extra 8m of easy ground up left from the current anchor (1 extra bolt).
FFA: @nmonteith, 2011
The Young Violent Pony
Another sustained outing up a slightly overhung wall. Up for 8 bolts then traverse hard left across wall to finish up 'Kizashi' to it's lower anchor.
Starts 15m left of 'Colosseum Corner' at line of leftward leading rings.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
The Old Sleepy Horse
The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.
Set by Neil Monteith, 2009
FA: Steve Grokovic, 2014
Roughly translates as "something great is coming". Thin seam crack that gets harder the higher you go. Never fear, there are no jams - it's all face moves and chicken wing gastos. Starts on the right edge of small chossy cavelet in the middle of 'Ben Trovato' Wall. Finishes at first set of double U bolts 3/4 of the way up the wall (extension is 29).
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.)
Set by Neil Monteith, 2009
FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
Another direct multipitch straight up the middle of the wall. The first pitch is one of the best harder routes at Sublime Point, featuring sustained thin crimping. Starts at FH on left edge of little overlap at ground level.
Set by @nmonteith
FA: Neil Monteith,Will Monks,@pthomson, 2012
Shorter and less sustained than other routes on this section of wall. Step left off block and up face between Sadomastication and Microdermabrasia to premature low anchors. The bolted extension to the ledge is grade 25.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2012
Reigning Steel Extension
The epic 5 bolt extension past the lower anchor to finish up Sadomastication for last 2m. A great mix of crimps and sidepulls with an ever increasing pump to the very end. Hard 25 or easy 26.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2014
Squeezed in. Up Reigning Steel for 3 bolts then left up the sustained crimpy wall.
FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014
One of the more obvious 'lines' on this wall. Three sustained pitches up the guts of the left side of the wall with comfy belay ledges and phat ringbolts. Pitch 1 can be done alone as a great single pitch 23 if you want to lower off.
FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p3), Lucy Ellis (p2) & Adam Demmert, 2009
Sustained thin face left of the Microdermabrasia flake with a left trend. At about 15m it meets the Exile pitch 2 traverse. From here go up via Exile for a couple of moves then take the left trending ringbolts finishing at double double lower-off (this is not a typo!). A more logical (and easier) finish is via Exile.
FA: Steve Grkovic & Megan Turnbull, 2014
RBs just right of Exile. Crosses Exile up high.
FA: Steve Grkovic, 2014
A sustained multi-pitch up the far left end of the wall, just before the fixed rope scramble. All pitches are well bolted, but higher up there is some loose rock.
Set by Jason Lammers, 2012
FA: Jason Lammers (pitches 1 and 4), Neil Monteith (pitches 2 and 3), 2012
The next three routes start BELOW the main Bentrovarto wall, on the main path to Sweet Dreams just before the metal cable traverse. The bolted arete is obvious, and the other two trad routes start just right of this.
Some good pitches if the greenery gets cleared.
Wanders all over the place!
FA: Bryden Allen, Martin Hader, 1964
FA: Neil Monteith, 2013
For the next routes scramble up the 5m corner with short fixed rope on the far left end of Bentrovarto Wall (left of Exile) to higher ledge with a couple of small trees. Take care wandering around on this narrow ledge - a slip is fatal. Also be careful lowering people off these routes - the left routes are 30m high - with a 100m drop underneath them!
The Road Not Taken
Start up the line of bolts just above the access rope to gain the upper ledge at the left hand side of Bentrovato Wall at the first belay bolt. Clip the starting bolt from higher up on the ledge further to the left. Climb the corner-feature and the black shield of rock using the arete as necessary during the crux section. Try and stay off Electra/out of the Gully as much as possible.
FA: Paul Thomson, 2014
A good little warm-up - but a little sharp. In the middle of the orange wall is a line of scoops that doesn't quite make it to the ground. Start about 4m to the left of these scoops. Boulder the footless start (and add a few grades) or just stand on the belay bolt to make the first move. Now trend right to the scoops and up them to lower-off. There is also an open project extension equipped by Chris Coghill.
Set by Chris Coghill, 2009
FA: Neil Monteith, 2011
Pumpy and long. Starts 3m right of the leaning steep corner on the terrace, at low FH for belay. Nice orange wall for 3 RBs to awkward dyno move, then a couple of long moves until a move left into the corner for a couple of metres. Finish right out under bulge and up orange wall.
FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2014
Steep exposed climbing. Starts off far left end of ledge - about 5m left of Cloudstreet. Across jugs to reach corner, up this for a few moves then over bulge and face left of arete. Finish up exposed orange face above with lots of reachy horizontal pulls
FA: Neil Monteith, 2011
|19 R||The Swiss Route||370m|
|20||Ben Trovato||7, 3160m|
|The Sublime and the Beautiful||375m|
|Marxism (Pitch 1 only)||25m|
|Golden Giles||3, 2170m|
|The Young Violent Pony||1025m,|
|Reigning Steel Extension||1327m,|
|Vespasian's Wall||2, 2058m|
|Vespasian's Wall (Pitch 1 only)||25m|
|The Road Not Taken||818m,|
|The Old Sleepy Horse||26m|