Sweet Dreams Walls Rock climbing20 routes in sector
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This area is the main introduction to climbing at Sublime Point for many beginners - due to the classic easy route Sweet Dreams. On a nice day there can be several parties on the route at once, so if crowds aren't your thing get on the route early! The sun hits this wall around midday - and can be scorching. Bring enough water and sunscreen!
Access issues inherited from West Face (Main Area)
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
After descending the ridge (info one level up) continue along the base of the cliff past the Binary Cave and Bentrovarto Wall to reach a fixed 'via ferrata' cable leading a across an exposed rock traverse. Clip in to the cable with a long sling and hand traverse across to safety. Don't solo it! The drop is epic and the rock quality is terrible. On the other side of the cable walk down and across another 20m to find Saccharine Nightmare and Sweet Dreams.
Ethic inherited from West Face (Main Area)
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
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