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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport, Trad and Unknown
This area is the main introduction to climbing at Sublime Point for many beginners - due to the classic easy route Sweet Dreams. On a nice day there can be several parties on the route at once, so if crowds aren't your thing get on the route early! The sun hits this wall around midday - and can be scorching. Bring enough water and sunscreen!
- Access Issues: inherited from West Face (Main Area)
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
After descending the ridge (info one level up) continue along the base of the cliff past the Binary Cave and Bentrovarto Wall to reach a fixed 'via ferrata' cable leading a across an exposed rock traverse. Clip in to the cable with a long sling and hand traverse across to safety. Don't solo it! The drop is epic and the rock quality is terrible. On the other side of the cable walk down and across another 20m to find Saccharine Nightmare and Sweet Dreams.
- Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.
The Sweetest Dream
A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching and itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay.
Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go any where from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'.
FFA: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers & Adam Demmert, 2012
A direct start and variant finish to Sweet Dreams.
One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade, and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. The route is mostly protected by old fashioned carrot bolts, however a basic trad rack is useful to reduce runouts. Most of the carrot bolts were placed after the first ascent.
Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.
FA: T. Batty, B.Allen
Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up)
A link-up of Sweet Dreams into Saccharine Nightmare that creates a sport climbers version of Sweet Dreams - giving slightly harder climbing and a lot more bolts. You will still need a couple of cams for Sweet Dreams pitch 2.
Sweet Dreams Variant
Go left from last belay of Sweet Dreams and follow the bolts up the blunt arete for the grade 17 finish. The last 15 meters takes a couple of cams if you need them.
Dreams Are Free
Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'.
Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB.
Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free.
Rapid Eye Movement
Make a trad belay in shallow slot under the route. Up to FH below juggy ledges. Clip and crank up and right on jugs to shallow overlay corner. Straight up to ledge and traverse right to rap rings. Rope drag is a problem.
Start: Starts 3m left of 'Jude Food'.
A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings.
FA: D. tanner,,C. Regan, 1963
Smack My Pitch Up
Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).
FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010
Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding.
Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.
FA: J. Anderson, M. Law, V. Peterson, 2009
Start: Scramble up and left 60m from Knights Mare.
|Knight's Mare||4, 2200m|
|Sweet Dreams Variant||170m|
|18||Rapid Eye Movement||125m,|
|Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up)||5120m|
|20||Dreams Are Free||225m,|
|Smack My Pitch Up||5120m|
|24||The Sweetest Dream||20m|