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Table of contents

1. Sweet Dreams Walls 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:

This area is the main introduction to climbing at Sublime Point for many beginners - due to the classic easy route Swet Dreams. On a nice day there can be several parties on the route at once, so if crowds aren't your thing get on the route early! The sun hits this wall around midday - and can be scorching. Bring enough water and sunscreen!

Access Issues: inherited from West Face

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Approach:

After descding the ridge (info one level up) continue along the base of the cliff past the Binary Cave and Bentrovarto Wall to reach a fixed 'via ferrata' cable leading a across an exposed rock traverse. Clip in to the cable with a long sling and hand traverse across to safety. Don't solo it! Teh drop is epic and the rock quality is terrible. On the other side of the cable walk down and across another 20m to find Saccharine Nightmare and Sweet Dreams.

Ethic: inherited from West Face

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Sweetest Dream

A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching and itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay.

Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go any where from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'.

24Sport 20m
2 ** Saccharine Nightmare

Mutlipitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall.

  1. 27m, 22, 10 bolts - Long and sustained pitch. Start up easy shale ledges for a few metres to reach undercut corner. Up a few metres then onto left wall - a few tough moves then traverse right to delicate final moves to hanging belay at shale break. Long runners useful to avoid rope drag.

  2. 30m, 21, 8 bolts - Left from belay up steep juggy wall which gets a little thin about 15m up. Swing left onto juggy arete and up runout but super easy black jugs to double rings at end of Pitch 3 of 'Sweet Dreams'.

  3. 35m, 17, 11 bolts - Out left from belay and up black slab for 8m then straight up the orange wall above on a million juggy horizontals. A great pitch.

  4. 10m, 15, 3 bolts - Dawdle up easy jugs to fun little overhung finish. Belay on ledge - scramble up vegetated hillside for 10m and walk 5m right to Sweet Dreams exit track.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers & Adam Demmert, 2012

22Sport 100m
3 Narcolepsy

A direct start and variant finish to Sweet Dreams.

17Mixed 100m, 11
4 *** Sweet Dreams

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade, and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. The route is mostly protected by old fashioned carrot bolts, however a basic trad rack is useful to reduce runouts. Most of the carrot bolts were placed after the first ascent.

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

  1. 20m (14) Short wall onto ledge then left to chimney and up to ledge and tree belay.

  2. 30m (10) Crack to block and bolt belay.

  3. 33m (13) Traverse up and right across slab to bolt belay.

  4. 30m (13) Up a few bolts then step right to crack above bowl clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner.

  5. 37m (14) Up easy corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge.

  6. 20m (10) If you took the right variant climb chossy overhang above.

FA: T. Batty, B.Allen

14Trad 180m
5 *** Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up)

A link-up of Sweet Dreams into Saccharine Nightmare that creates a sport climbers version of Sweet Dreams - giving slightly harder climbing and a lot more bolts. You will still need a couple of cams for Sweet Dreams pitch 2.

  1. 20m (13) Pitch 1 of Sweet Dreams (carrot bolts + slings)

  2. 30m (12) Pitch 2 of Sweet Dreams (carrot bolts + cams))

  3. 30m (12) Pitch 3 of Sweet Dreams to end of traverse and double RB belay. (carrot bolts)

  4. 35m (18) Pitch 3 of Saccharine Nightmare (11 ringbolts)

  5. 10m (16) Pitch 4 of Saccharine Nightmare (3 ringbolts)

18Trad 120m
6 *** Sweet Dreams Variant

Go left from last belay of Sweet Dreams and follow the bolts up the blunt arete for the grade 17 finish. The last 15 meters takes a couple of cams if you need them.

17Trad 170m
7 ** Dreams Are Free

Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'.

20Sport 25m, 2
8 * Jude Food

Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB.

Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free.

20Sport 25m, 3
9 Rapid Eye Movement

Make a trad belay in shallow slot under the route. Up to FH below juggy ledges. Clip and crank up and right on jugs to shallow overlay corner. Straight up to ledge and traverse right to rap rings. Rope drag is a problem.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Jude Food'.

18Sport 25m, 1
10 Knight's Mare

A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings.

  1. 50m (14) As for pitches 1 and 2 of 'Sweet Dreams' to double rings in corner.

  2. 20m (14) Ignore bolts out right on Sweet Dreams and climb the corner direct (past an old rusty bolt 8m up) then continue on easy grey wall right of corner to large ledge and single rusty BR and small tree. You can belay here (with a bit of jiggery pokery - or link into next pitch)

  3. 20m (15) Up slab above ledge then into vegetated corner (you can stem around the worst bits) to a short chimney (fixed Hex and old shitty BR in back of chimney). Some people belay here but it is much nicer to continue up for another 5m onto large ledge on the right. Trad belay on medium cams and wires.

  4. 15m (15) Traverse horizontally right with epic exposure and good cams to base of black corner and trad belay. You can join this pitch into the next pitch.

  5. 25m (16) Up the sandy corner and at top exit right onto ledge (poor pro) and scramble up vegetation to tree belay.

16Trad 200m
11 ** Smack My Pitch Up

Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark.

  1. 25m (18) First pitch of Whymper. Head diagonally rightwards past U bolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right.
  2. 26m (18) Plumb-line up black wall on ring-bolts to DBB.
  3. 21m (18) Up and left under roof on orange rock (clip 60cm runner on third bolt to minimize rope drag). Bridge up into corner of roof and traverse right through lip and onto wall above and DBB.
  4. 23m (20) Trend slightly right past interesting features and small overlap, to good holds and stance under roof. Strenuous moves left onto black wall above and up past flake (caution!) to DBB.
  5. 25m (17) Fun juggy climbing through steps, to corner with short pocketed wall on left. Bridge up then step right onto final short wall and up toward tree. A final U-bolt is hidden just below cliff edge, as a directional. Recommend sling belay from tree 5m further up slope, and extend yourself back to edge with the rope (take extreme care with loose rocks!).

Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

20Sport 120m
12 *** Whymper

Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets and a sling.

Start: Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dream, or about 100m after the cable traverse.

  1. 25m (18) Head diagonally rightwards past Ubolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right

  2. 25m (18) Stainless glued carrots from now on, left and out to arête. DBB

  3. 25m (19) Up right then out left to arête, up to small ledge and 3BB

  4. 35m (19) Up arête to cave, clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.

  5. 35m (16) Right and up (ignore old dynabolts further right).

FA: J. Anderson, M. Law, V. Peterson, 2009

19Sport 150m
13 Gladiator

Start: Scramble up and left 60m from Knights Mare.

  1. 27m (-) Corner to tree.

  2. 33m (16) Corner to bulge. Around this on right wall then corner and chimney.

16Trad 60m
14 Medusa 11Unknown 140m
15 Achilles Crack 12Unknown 130m
16 Perseus 11Unknown 120m
17 Garbage Gully 8Unknown 90m
18 Apollo 9Unknown 150m
19 Andronicus Walls 15Unknown 110m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 Garbage Gully Unknown 90m
9 Apollo Unknown 150m
11 Medusa Unknown 140m
Perseus Unknown 120m
12 Achilles Crack Unknown 130m
14 *** Sweet Dreams Trad 180m
15 Andronicus Walls Unknown 110m
16 Gladiator Trad 60m
Knight's Mare Trad 200m
17 Narcolepsy Mixed 100m, 11
*** Sweet Dreams Variant Trad 170m
18 Rapid Eye Movement Sport 25m, 1
*** Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) Trad 120m
19 *** Whymper Sport 150m
20 ** Dreams Are Free Sport 25m, 2
* Jude Food Sport 25m, 3
** Smack My Pitch Up Sport 120m
22 ** Saccharine Nightmare Sport 100m
24 * The Sweetest Dream Sport 20m