Topo #4024

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Area Type
? Andy's Area

A fun little sport sector of VERY well protected face routes. The wall faces south west, so is in the shade until mid afternoon. It's possible to do a few routes here on the walk out when the main area is in the sun.

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? Choc Chip Chai Sector

The first wall you reach when you reach the bottom of the steep descent and turn right (towards Sweet Dreams).

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? Theory of Negativity Wall
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? Iliad Buttress

50m left of Theory of Negativity Wall is a hanging orange arete visible high above the trees. There is a recessed twin corner crack leading up to it. This is Cynics United. Above and left of this arete is the main Iliad Buttress, somewhat hidden from below.

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? Binary Cave

A popular all-weather sport crag, with a couple of hairy rad cracks as well. This 50m wide section of orange wall extends left from Constipation Chimney and is protected from heavy rain by a vast roof 40m above the deck. The base is totally dry for 5m out from the cliff, is fairly flat and is a great place to hang out when the weather turns nasty (most routes were established during the wettest summer in memory!). There are currently more than 15 sport routes, and several rarely repeated old school steep trad lines. Most routes are 20-25m single pitches which end at anchors just below a large shale ledge. There are a couple of ancient aid routes which continue through the roofs above currently being freed as trad (plus future free trad potential!). Bring a rope mat as the base of the crag is dirty. Stick-clips are useful.

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? Bentrovarto Wall

This amazing orange wall is visible high through the trees from above the shale ledge track, just before you get to the cable/wire traverse of death leading to Sweet Dreams. It's just like the famous Janicepts Wall at Piddington - a slightly overhung black and orange wall extending left from a stonking corner crack - except Ben Trovato Wall is three times higher and with better rock! All the routes are technical face climbs, usually very sustained and well protected by new bolts (or bomber trad). The rock is very rough in places - bring a good set of finger tips.

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? Sweet Dreams Walls

This area is the main introduction to climbing at Sublime Point for many beginners - due to the classic easy route Swet Dreams. On a nice day there can be several parties on the route at once, so if crowds aren't your thing get on the route early! The sun hits this wall around midday - and can be scorching. Bring enough water and sunscreen!

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Route Grade Popularity Style
4 *** Sweet Dreams

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade, and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. The route is mostly protected by old fashioned carrot bolts, however a basic trad rack is useful to reduce runouts. Most of the carrot bolts were placed after the first ascent. Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches. 1. 20m (14) Short wall onto ledge then left to chimney and up to ledge and tree belay. 2. 30m (10) Crack to block and bolt belay. 3. 33m (13) Traverse up and right across slab to bolt belay. 4. 30m (13) Up a few bolts then step right to crack above bowl clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner. 5. 37m (14) Up easy corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge. 6. 20m (10) If you took the right variant climb chossy overhang above.

14 Trad 180m Unlink route

Topo #4071

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 * The Sweetest Dream

A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching and itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay. Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go any where from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'.

24 Sport 20m Unlink route
2 ** Saccharine Nightmare

Mutlipitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall. 1. 27m, 22, 10 bolts - Long and sustained pitch. Start up easy shale ledges for a few metres to reach undercut corner. Up a few metres then onto left wall - a few tough moves then traverse right to delicate final moves to hanging belay at shale break. Long runners useful to avoid rope drag. 2. 30m, 21, 8 bolts - Left from belay up steep juggy wall which gets a little thin about 15m up. Swing left onto juggy arete and up runout but super easy black jugs to double rings at end of Pitch 3 of 'Sweet Dreams'. 3. 35m, 17, 11 bolts - Out left from belay and up black slab for 8m then straight up the orange wall above on a million juggy horizontals. A great pitch. 4. 10m, 15, 3 bolts - Dawdle up easy jugs to fun little overhung finish. Belay on ledge - scramble up vegetated hillside for 10m and walk 5m right to Sweet Dreams exit track.

22 Sport 100m Unlink route
3 Narcolepsy

A direct start and variant finish to Sweet Dreams.

17 Mixed 100m, 11 Unlink route
4 *** Sweet Dreams

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade, and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. The route is mostly protected by old fashioned carrot bolts, however a basic trad rack is useful to reduce runouts. Most of the carrot bolts were placed after the first ascent. Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches. 1. 20m (14) Short wall onto ledge then left to chimney and up to ledge and tree belay. 2. 30m (10) Crack to block and bolt belay. 3. 33m (13) Traverse up and right across slab to bolt belay. 4. 30m (13) Up a few bolts then step right to crack above bowl clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner. 5. 37m (14) Up easy corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge. 6. 20m (10) If you took the right variant climb chossy overhang above.

14 Trad 180m Unlink route
6 *** Sweet Dreams Variant

Go left from last belay of Sweet Dreams and follow the bolts up the blunt arete for the grade 17 finish. The last 15 meters takes a couple of cams if you need them.

17 Trad 170m Unlink route
7 ** Dreams Are Free

Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'.

20 Sport 25m, 2 Unlink route
8 * Jude Food

Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB. Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free.

20 Sport 25m, 3 Unlink route
9 Rapid Eye Movement

Make a trad belay in shallow slot under the route. Up to FH below juggy ledges. Clip and crank up and right on jugs to shallow overlay corner. Straight up to ledge and traverse right to rap rings. Rope drag is a problem. Start: Starts 3m left of 'Jude Food'.

18 Sport 25m, 1 Unlink route
10 Knight's Mare

A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings. 1. 50m (14) As for pitches 1 and 2 of 'Sweet Dreams' to double rings in corner. 2. 20m (14) Ignore bolts out right on Sweet Dreams and climb the corner direct (past an old rusty bolt 8m up) then continue on easy grey wall right of corner to large ledge and single rusty BR and small tree. You can belay here (with a bit of jiggery pokery - or link into next pitch) 3. 20m (15) Up slab above ledge then into vegetated corner (you can stem around the worst bits) to a short chimney (fixed Hex and old shitty BR in back of chimney). Some people belay here but it is much nicer to continue up for another 5m onto large ledge on the right. Trad belay on medium cams and wires. 4. 15m (15) Traverse horizontally right with epic exposure and good cams to base of black corner and trad belay. You can join this pitch into the next pitch. 2. 25m (16) Up the sandy corner and at top exit right onto ledge (poor pro) and scramble up vegetation to tree belay.

16 Trad 200m Unlink route
11 ** Smack My Pitch Up

Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark. 1) 25m (18) First pitch of Whymper. Head diagonally rightwards past U bolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right. 2) 26m (18) Plumb-line up black wall on ring-bolts to DBB. 3) 21m (18) Up and left under roof on orange rock (clip 60cm runner on third bolt to minimize rope drag). Bridge up into corner of roof and traverse right through lip and onto wall above and DBB. 4) 23m (20) Trend slightly right past interesting features and small overlap, to good holds and stance under roof. Strenuous moves left onto black wall above and up past flake (caution!) to DBB. 5) 25m (17) Fun juggy climbing through steps, to corner with short pocketed wall on left. Bridge up then step right onto final short wall and up toward tree. A final U-bolt is hidden just below cliff edge, as a directional. Recommend sling belay from tree 5m further up slope, and extend yourself back to edge with the rope (take extreme care with loose rocks!). Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).

20 Sport 120m Unlink route
12 *** Whymper

Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets and a sling. Start: Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dream, or about 100m after the cable traverse. 1. 25m (18) Head diagonally rightwards past Ubolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right 2. 25m (18) Stainless glued carrots from now on, left and out to arête. DBB 3. 25m (19) Up right then out left to arête, up to small ledge and 3BB 4. 35m (19) Up arête to cave, clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay. 5. 35m (16) Right and up (ignore old dynabolts further right).

19 Sport 150m Unlink route

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