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Description

The first wall you reach when you reach the bottom of the steep descent and turn right (towards Sweet Dreams).

Access issues inherited from West Face

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Approach

This is first wall you reach when you reach the bottom of the steep descent and turn right (towards Sweet Dreams). The landmark is the sport route route Choc Chip Chai, with a couple of fixed hangers and a rock cairn at the base.

Descent Notes

The older routes top out and belay off trees, whilst the newer bolted routes have rap anchors.

Ethic inherited from West Face

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 R Pawn's Leap Trad 47m

Not quite Sublime. Starts at right end of black dirty slab where the descent track flattens out to the shale ledge. Apparently an excellent hangover climb or relaxing afternoon, back in the day.

  1. 17m (12) Up near dirt on good rock to tree.

  2. 13m (12) Easily up to bush anchor.

  3. 17m (12) Up broken rock slight left around overhang to dirt ledge. Traverse left around corner then scramble up and right to track.

2
16 ES Trad 50m

Start below yellow chossy crack 10m left of Pawns Leap. Up, through roof crack and continue up slabby vegetated crack above to tree belay. Grade is a total guess. Anyone repeated this?

3
19 * Choc Chip Chai Sport 15m, 7

A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss.Start off cairn to bypass undercut start. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor. Bolted with a mix of rings and FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

4
12 Defaecation Trad 43m

Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss.

Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.

  1. 13m (12) Choss for 7m then dawdle left on small ledge and around nose into corner. Onto ledge and up to block. Old bolt belay.

  2. 10m (14) Wall to cave and old double bolt belay.

  3. 20m (14) Overhang on left and wall.

5

Appallingly chossy corner that joins into the first pitch of 'Defaecation' after the traverse.

Start: Marked DDS. Starts 10m left of original route.

6
21 Caractacus Trad 110m

An old aid route now free. Major line on the right side of alcove with appalling choss at the start. The steep corner crack on the third pitch is the good bit.

Start by taking pictures of the fascinating witches who put the scintillating stitches in the britches of the boys who put the powder on the noses on the faces of the ladies of the harem of the court of King 'Caractacus', who are just passing by ... at the choss 20m left of DDS.

  1. 27m (12) Chossy corner of sorts to small ledge on the left and old bolt belay.

  2. 11m (12) Continue up rambling corner crack to ledge.

  3. 22m (21) The steep major left facing corner finishing out right of the big hanging block. This used to be an aid pitch at M4.

  4. 50m (12) Easily up trending left.

FA: J. Pickard, 1968

FA: Adam Darragh & Brian Burford, 2005

7
11 Queen's Shift Trad 190m

1950s style chossy ramble. Who needs protection when you just have a rope tied around your waist anyway?

Start: Starts 8m left of C on left side of square alcove.

  1. 20m (11) Up sandy corner nonsense to cave then left until you can stand.

  2. 17m (11) Up to cave, onto wall and up to small cave.

  3. 20m (12) Up to big ledge and tree belay.

  4. 40m (-) Left across ledge.

  5. 33m (12) Up and right to tree

  6. 20m (-) Walk to 5m corner, up it to tree.

  7. 27m (-) Up right to ledge to first gully. Up to flakes then chimney. Up to tree.

  8. 13m (-) Chimney.

8

A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters!. An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.

  1. 25m (18) Easy sandy horizontals up the left wall of the left corner past many ubolts. Either lower off first anchor or climb up and right over shale explosion to second anchor bolts at base of corner.

  2. (21) Up right facing corner to ledge, then left facing corner to final undercling moves. Juggy on good rock. Don't lower off, it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there’s a pair Ubolts at the back of the ledge.

  3. (12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right.

FA: Brian Burford & Adam Darragh (pitch 2 - ground up on trad), 2000

FA: Mikl, Vanessa Peterson & Neil Monteith (pitch 1 & 3), 2012