Choc Chip Chai Sector Mostly trad climbing8 routes in sector
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The first wall you reach when you reach the bottom of the steep descent and turn right (towards Sweet Dreams).
Access issues inherited from West Face (Main Area)
There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
The older routes top out and belay off trees, whilst the newer bolted routes have rap anchors.
Ethic inherited from West Face (Main Area)
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.
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Start below yellow chossy crack 10m left of Pawns Leap. Up, through roof crack and continue up slabby vegetated crack above to tree belay. Grade is a total guess. Anyone repeated this?
A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss.Start off cairn to bypass undercut start. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor. Bolted with a mix of rings and FHs.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2009
Line of least resistance through a world of seething choss.
Start: Starts at chossy groove under big overhang 2m left of 'Choc Chip Chai'.
13m (12) Choss for 7m then dawdle left on small ledge and around nose into corner. Onto ledge and up to block. Old bolt belay.
10m (14) Wall to cave and old double bolt belay.
20m (14) Overhang on left and wall.