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Routes as sport in Choc Chip Chai Sector

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
20 Choc Chip Chai

A steep pumper on some of the biggest holds in the mountains - overhangs 5m. Starts about 5m left of ES (40m left of access track) at steep orange overhanging wall between massive choss. Right into little corner, traverse right across horizontal to steep prow, jug up this to overhanging orange wall with finale crux to anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jacqui Culhane, 2009

Sport 15m, 7
21 Vlad the Invader

Just left of CCC through steep terrain. Originally climbed direct at 2nd last bolt, avoiding the ledge, at grade 22 - but it seems everyone uses the ledge to make it a cruisy 21. Longer draws useful to reduce drag.

FA: Heath Black & Millie Malfroy, 23 Mar 2022

Sport 17m, 8
21 Little Jug of Happiness
1 18 25m
2 21 20m
3 12 20m

A mighty line tamed by stainless steel. Unknown to Mikl (who bolted it), 'barefoot' Brian Burford had led the 2nd pitch 12 years previously - ground up on trad. Apparently he is happy to have it bolted now so put away those angle grinders tradsters! An easy first pitch leads to extremely overhung corner with easy climbing through ridiculous roofs.

  1. 25m (18) Easy sandy horizontals up the left wall of the left corner past many U-bolts. Either lower off first anchor or climb up and right over shale explosion to second anchor bolts at base of corner.

  2. (21) Up right facing corner to ledge, then left facing corner to final undercling moves. Juggy on good rock. Don't lower off, it would be terrifying and your rope would run over all sorts of scariness. Best to lead and second this pitch. Pull over the top and there's a pair 'U' bolts at the back of the ledge.

  3. (12) Up wall on left past a ring to trees and ledge. Walk right 40m to rejoin walk-down. If going to top from here, go up the gully 10m and walk right.

FA: Brian Burford & Adam Darragh (pitch 2 - ground up on trad), 2000

FA: Mikl, Vanessa Peterson, Neil Monteith (pitch 1 & 3), 2012

Sport 65m, 3

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