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Description

50m left of Theory of Negativity Wall is a hanging orange arete visible high above the trees. There is a recessed twin corner crack leading up to it. This is Cynics United. Above and left of this arete is the main Iliad Buttress, somewhat hidden from below.

Access issues inherited from West Face

There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Descent Notes

All these routes top-out onto tree belays. Scramble up and right to reach the tourist lookout and track to exit.

Ethic inherited from West Face

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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1
24 ** Cynics United Sport 82m

Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. First three pitches complete - top three are still a closed project. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch - or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.

  1. (17m, 16) Trad - orange recessed corner with twin cracks. Finish up the left hand corner crack to big ledge and bolt belay. Eats finger to hand size cams and big wires.

  2. (25m, 22, 11 bolts) Up left side of orange wall for a few metres - then traverse right to small hanging corner and onto small ledge. Right edge of this find hidden bolt then up overhung arete which turns into frightening large ironstone jugs. Belay on large ledge. You can rap from here to ground with two 50m ropes.

  3. (15m, 22, 7 bolts) Walk 50m left along shale ledge to bolt belay below big orange wall. Undercut start on jugs then up pumpy face on slots. Belay on small ledge.

  4. (15m, 24) Out, right and up the imposing orange wall and prow with a squillion bolts. Belay on small ledge.

  5. (10m, 15) Juggy steep wall past diving board to cruddy black rock topout. Belay on tree well back from edge

FA: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers and Chris Coghill, 2012

2
21 I Don't Climb Wigglies Sport 17m, 9

Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing the multipitch Cynics United if you can't place trad.

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Coghill, 2012

3
16 * The Iliad Trad 87m

A great trad multi-pitch with only one short section of gardening down low. The upper pitches are in a fantatsic position with great orange rock up a major crackline. Standard rack of finger to fist crack size cams and wires are needed, bring doubles of cams as you will need to use them to setup belays. Starts about 20m left of Cynics United and 40m right of the Binary Cave.

The start is fairly easy to spot. The first few metres are vegetated grasstrees - but then a stonker black juggy handcrack emerges.

  1. 27m (12) Bridge around grasstrees then up bomber handcrack (jugs abound) then bushbash up easy vegetated ledges for 10m to large ledge. Belay off finger crack sized trad gear in crack just right of arete with old piton at the base.

  2. 27m (16) Clip the manky piton (good wire and small cam around corner) and do a tough reachy move onto the arete. Up the face with minimal pro for 8m to horizontal break. Traverse right along this break for 5m to base of vegetated crack above overhung corner. Up this crack on good cams to belay on large ledge. Trad belay. This pitch can also be climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start, which climbs the tips crack on the right side of the arete into the top section of the original pitch.

  3. 13m (16) Crux. 'Steep' orange corner crack to lip, then juggy corner to cave and trad belay. You can easily join this pitch into the next one.

  4. 20m (15) Continue up the crack that turns into a rightwards leading ramp that eventually ends with a steep mantle onto a good ledge and tree belay.

To exit walk up the hill to small cliffline. Follow this cliffline right for 100m or so to below tourist lookout and short gully that goes under metal bridge.

FFA: J Ewbank, 1968

4

Desperate, strenuous and with very small gear (1 x BD #1, 1 x BD #2, 1 x BD C3 #1, 1 x BD C3 #2, Double rack of wires + gear for the top half of The Illiad P2). From the belay at the end of Pitch 1 of The Illiad, climb the tips crack around the corner to the right, and join The Illiad Pitch 2 at the rooflet crack before the final slab. Continue to belay as for the rest of Pitch 2 of The Illiad.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2013

5
14 Odyssey Walls Trad 100m

Start: Crack in middle of wall as for 'The Iliad'

  1. 27m (-) Climb pitch 1 of 'The Iliad'. Originally done in two pitches.

  2. 13m (-) Overhang past old piton and up to ledge.

  3. 24m (-) Up 6m, traverse left on small ledge, up to big ledge.

4.+30m? (-) Traverse left and finish 'Constipation Chimney' or as you wish.

FA: Chris Regan, Bob Ryan, 1963

6
12 Constipation Chimney Trad 110m

A major old-school line of little modern merit.

Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.

  1. 30m (-) Up to first ledge 2m right of corner.

  2. 13m (-) Diagonally left and up to ledge.

  3. 30m (-) Traverse left to corner and up to ledge.

  4. 20m (12) Chimney to cave on left.

  5. 17m (-) Up, ignoring the scrub on the left.

  6. 13m (-) Wall on right.

  7. 13m (-) Traverse left and up chimney.

FA: Rhum Du climbers

FFA: D Tanner, 1964