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Description:

A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbanks) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 5m left of 'Marxism'.

  1. 25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Bentrovarto wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Once p2 is open, p1 will be a 33m pitch incorporating an extra 8m of easy ground up left from the current anchor (1 extra bolt).

  2. 33m (-) Project - Steps right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then takes the orange streak above the guano. The starting DRB and 4th RB are positioned to re-use old holes drilled by persons unknown (and other holes were patched); they also left 4 or 5 UB holes for ~12m above the belay to a blank dead end, 2-4m left of this pitch. A 70m rope is enough to lower off p2, pull rope, then rap down p1. A 60m might even stretch -

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Neil Monteith (p1), 2011

  • First Ascent: John Ewbank, Bob Smith @ 15 M.3, Sep 1964

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Neil Monteith
25 Principal
25 *** *** ACA Route Register
25***

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 75%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tired crux sustained tough hard good brilliant super great fun awesome short rest jugs dry balancy

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