Section navigation

Description:

Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 5m left of 'Marxism'.

  1. 25m (25) Possibly the best single pitch on Bentrovarto wall. Tiny hanging arête to start then right and up amazing sustained wall with crux near the top. Clip the first bolt with a stick, or off a kneebar in the break. Ignore the manky chain at 20m and continue another 5m to a new anchor.

  2. 33m (-) Project, please stay off. Steps right to the flake/corner left of the guano, then takes the orange streak above the guano.

Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Ewbank & Bob Smith @ 15 M.3, 1964

  • First Free Ascent: Neil Monteith (p1), 2011

Location:  

Located in Ben Trovato Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337308,-33.735159

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
25
25***
25 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 74%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tired crux sustained tough hard good brilliant super great fun awesome short rest jugs dry balancy

Learn about creating circuits.