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Description:© (nmonteith)

A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching and itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay.

Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go any where from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'.

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Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

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