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Description:© (Stu)

Another old aid route through a big ceiling that has now been partially freed.

  1. 25m (23) Chossy corner crack for 12m to large shale covered ledge and BR. Up short corner to roof, then traverse rightwards with difficulty (small cams) to lip of roof and easy crack finish and trad belay on shale ledge.

  2. 10m (10) Corner to ledge. Best linked into next pitch.

  3. 13m (23/M2) Up corner then right to prow. Overhung short corner (piton scars) and out hanging wall to juggy black stuff and up to ledge. Is being attempted as a free route by Macca (2013).

  4. 30m (15) Long easy black wall of horror jugs.


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Macciza (pitch 1), May 2012

    Can't believe this was ignored . . .

  • First Ascent: John Ewbank, 4 Mar 1967


Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

13 M4 ACA Route Register
13M4 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
22 M2 Neil Monteith
23,23,13 Macciza a.k.a. Macca
23,23,13 Macciza a.k.a. Macca
23 M2 Principal

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 44%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped good cool classic chossy rest roof

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