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Description:© (Stu)

The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half. There is a rap anchor at the end of pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.

  1. 20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and bolt belay (shared with Bentrovarto).

  2. 13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. Can be linked with pitch 1.

1.a. 32m (~21) Memorial Direct variant - Obvious direct continuation of 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge as above.

  1. 40m (19) A long corner which would be amazing if it was clean, but unfortunately it gets increasingly vegetated, it's even got major trees in the last 20m.

  2. (10m)? That tree is actually a very lovely little belay spot, classic in fact on a sunny day or for a late evening joint massage, though the original belay was actually further out on the face apparently?? Top out to good tree belay. Walk 20m straight up hill, up a short section of fixed rope, and 20m more to find the good walking trail. Turn right on this and follow it back to the tourist lookout. Alternatively rap back down one of the sport lines.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Zac and Sophie, Direct 1st pitch, 15 Dec 2013

    Direct 1st pitch.

  • First Ascent: John Ewbank, John Davis, 14 Jan 1965

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 Principal
19 * Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
19 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux good great fun cool classic nice awesome tricky dodgy bridging crack

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