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Description:© (Stu)

Australia's first grade 19! The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.

  1. 20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and DRB belay (shared with Ben Trovato). A direct on this pitch was climbed by Vertrees and Prior in 2013.

  2. 13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. (Memorial Direct variant 32m (~21). The obvious direct continuation of the 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge atop the original pitch 2).

  3. 33m (19) Bridge and jam the corner. The original belay was a "bolt anchor 15' diagonally to right", but the tree is actually a lovely little belay spot.

  4. 12m Corner to top, good tree belay.

Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: John Ewbank & John Davis, 1965

Location:  

Located in Ben Trovato Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -33.735159,150.337308

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
19 * Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
19 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 69%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard fun cool nice good great enjoyable classic awesome tricky easy dodgy bridging crack

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