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Sweet Dreams 14

  • Grades: AU
  • Height: 120m
  • Bolts: 20
  • Pitches: 6
  • Ascents: 785

Description

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. The route is protected by carrots with each anchor being double ring bolts. A few cams are required for pitch 2 and to reduce runouts on pitch 4. Most of the carrot bolts were placed after the first ascent.

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

  1. 20m (14) Short wall onto ledge then left to chimney, up to ledge and DRB belay.

  2. 20m (10) Crack to block and DRB bolt belay. (Cams: .3 - 1)

  3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab to bolt belay after one ring bolt.

  4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m. Continue up a few bolts (slightly run out so cam placement if required), then step right to crack above bowl clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner.

  5. 15m (14) Up easy corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge.

  6. 10m (10) If you took the right variant climb chossy overhang above.

© (Stu)

Ethic

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Route history

First Ascent: T. Batty & B.Allen

Location

Lat/Long: -33.73579, 150.33753

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

14 Community registered grade
14 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
14 *** ACA Route Register

Seasonality

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F
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A
M
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J
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S
O
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 78% from 454 ratings

Tick types

Solo
Onsight
Flash
Red point
Pink point
Hang dog

Comment keywords

struggle challenging crux difficult hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great lovely classic awesome stoked pleasant super beautiful rad perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary runout tricky exposed horrendous confusing rest interesting epic crazy roof hands short flake face crap pockets crack feet sunny fingers easy bail cruisy smooth traverse

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Activity

Check out what is happening on Sweet Dreams (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.