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Description:© (Stu)

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade, and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. The route is mostly protected by old fashioned carrot bolts, however a basic trad rack is useful to reduce runouts. Most of the carrot bolts were placed after the first ascent.

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

  1. 20m (14) Short wall onto ledge then left to chimney and up to ledge and tree belay.

  2. 30m (10) Crack to block and bolt belay.

  3. 33m (13) Traverse up and right across slab to bolt belay.

  4. 30m (13) Up a few bolts then step right to crack above bowl clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner.

  5. 37m (14) Up easy corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge.

  6. 20m (10) If you took the right variant climb chossy overhang above.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: T. Batty, B.Allen

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Principal
14 ** Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
14 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

struggle challenging difficult hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great lovely classic awesome stoked pleasant beautiful rad perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary tricky exposed feet rest interesting crazy flake face easy crap bail cruisy smooth traverse crack

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