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Description:

A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings.

  1. 50m (14) As for pitches 1 and 2 of 'Sweet Dreams' to double rings in corner.

  2. 20m (14) Ignore bolts out right on Sweet Dreams and climb the corner direct (past an old rusty bolt 8m up) then continue on easy grey wall right of corner to large ledge and single rusty BR and small tree. You can belay here (with a bit of jiggery pokery - or link into next pitch)

  3. 20m (15) Up slab above ledge then into vegetated corner (you can stem around the worst bits) to a short chimney (fixed Hex and old shitty BR in back of chimney). Some people belay here but it is much nicer to continue up for another 5m onto large ledge on the right. Trad belay on medium cams and wires.

  4. 15m (15) Traverse horizontally right with epic exposure and good cams to base of black corner and trad belay. You can join this pitch into the next pitch.

  5. 25m (16) Up the sandy corner and at top exit right onto ledge (poor pro) and scramble up vegetation to tree belay.

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Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

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Route Grade Citations

16 Principal
16 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
16 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good sweet super great fun nice scary runout tricky exposed slippery easy chimney rest adventurous traverse

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