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Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets and a sling.

Start: Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dream, or about 100m after the cable traverse.

  1. 25m (18) Head diagonally rightwards past Ubolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right

  2. 25m (18) Stainless glued carrots from now on, left and out to arête. DBB

  3. 25m (19) Up right then out left to arête, up to small ledge and 3BB

  4. 35m (19) Up arête to cave, clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.

  5. 35m (16) Right and up (ignore old dynabolts further right).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: J. Anderson, M. Law, V. Peterson, 29 Mar 2009


Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 Tony Williams
19 Jason Lammers
19 Principal
19 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux sustained tough hard beautiful fun cool rad nice fantastic good sweet brilliant amazing great exciting classic superb awesome fall exposed committing steep feet rest reachy interesting arete roof hands face easy traverse

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