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Description:

Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding.

Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.

  1. 25m (19) Tough move through first rooflet then head right around arête and diagonally up face to ledge and 2 Ubolt belay on right.

  2. 25m (18) Stainless glued carrots from now on. Traverse left and out to arête. Up this to good ledge/cave and DBB.

  3. 25m (19) The money pitch. Exposed! Up right then out left to overhung arête, up to semi hanging belay on small ledge and 3BB.

  4. 35m (19) Up arête past two BRs to cave and double U bolts. Don't belay here! Instead clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.

  5. 35m (16) Right and up on ironstone plates and various ledges to top and tree belay well back.

Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: J. Anderson, M. Law & V. Peterson, 2009

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 Principal
19 Tony Williams
19 Jason Lammers
19 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux sustained tough hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet amazing great classic superb awesome incredible beautiful rad brilliant exciting scary fall tricky exposed committing steep feet rest reachy interesting arete roof hands face easy traverse

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