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Description:

Mutlipitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall.

  1. 27m, 22, 10 bolts - Long and sustained pitch. Start up easy shale ledges for a few metres to reach undercut corner. Up a few metres then onto left wall - a few tough moves then traverse right to delicate final moves to hanging belay at shale break. Long runners useful to avoid rope drag.

  2. 30m, 21, 8 bolts - Left from belay up steep juggy wall which gets a little thin about 15m up. Swing left onto juggy arete and up runout but super easy black jugs to double rings at end of Pitch 3 of 'Sweet Dreams'.

  3. 35m, 17, 11 bolts - Out left from belay and up black slab for 8m then straight up the orange wall above on a million juggy horizontals. A great pitch.

  4. 10m, 15, 3 bolts - Dawdle up easy jugs to fun little overhung finish. Belay on ledge - scramble up vegetated hillside for 10m and walk 5m right to Sweet Dreams exit track.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers & Adam Demmert, 12 Feb 2012

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 Principal
22 Neil Monteith

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 70%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

fun cool nice good sweet great classic awesome steep interesting technical balancy short easy jugs traverse

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