Phototopos:

Description:

Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. First three pitches complete - top three are still a closed project. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch - or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.

  1. (17m, 16) Trad - orange recessed corner with twin cracks. Finish up the left hand corner crack to big ledge and bolt belay. Eats finger to hand size cams and big wires.

  2. (25m, 22, 11 bolts) Up left side of orange wall for a few metres - then traverse right to small hanging corner and onto small ledge. Right edge of this find hidden bolt then up overhung arete which turns into frightening large ironstone jugs. Belay on large ledge. You can rap from here to ground with two 50m ropes.

  3. (15m, 22, 7 bolts) Walk 50m left along shale ledge to bolt belay below big orange wall. Undercut start on jugs then up pumpy face on slots. Belay on small ledge.

  4. (15m, 24) Out, right and up the imposing orange wall and prow with a squillion bolts. Belay on small ledge.

  5. (10m, 15) Juggy steep wall past diving board to cruddy black rock topout. Belay on tree well back from edge

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers and Chris Coghill, 25 Mar 2012

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Principal
24** ** Jason Lammers

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

steep crazy

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