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Description:

Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch - or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.

  1. (17m, 16) Trad - orange recessed corner with twin cracks. Finish up the left hand corner crack to big ledge and bolt belay. Eats finger to hand size cams and big wires.

  2. (25m, 22, 11 bolts) Up left side of orange wall for a few metres - then traverse right to small hanging corner and onto small ledge. Right edge of this find hidden bolt then up overhung arete which turns into frightening large ironstone jugs. Belay on large ledge. You can rap from here to ground with two 50m ropes.

  3. (15m, 22, 7 bolts) Walk 50m left along shale ledge to bolt belay below big orange wall. Undercut start on jugs then up pumpy face on slots. Belay on small ledge.

  4. (15m, 24) Out, right and up the imposing orange wall and prow with a squillion bolts. Belay on small ledge.

  5. (10m, 15) Juggy steep wall past diving board to cruddy black rock topout. Belay on tree well back from edge

Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there has been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbign venue.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Neil Monteith (led all pitches), Jason Lammers & Chris Coghill, 2012

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
24** ** Jason Lammers

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 67%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tired powerful crux hard good scary tricky exposed steep arete crazy short face easy mantle jugs traverse

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