★ The Swiss Route 19

The major exposed black arete on the right side of Ben Trovato Wall. The line looks appealing, but even with considerable recent retrobolting (with permission from first ascentist) this route is still a bold and loose proposition. To do this all on trad like the original rock warriors would be quite the head trip. Wear helmets and take a double rack of cams from finger to fist size to supplement the ringbolts. Leave your bumbly partner at home.

1. 15m (16) A fun and popular sport pitch up the grey face at the base of the mega arete (about 20m right of the metal access rungs to Ben Trovarto Wall). Most parties rap from the ledge and climb something else - if you are a soft rock enthusiast continue reading... (and climbing)

2. 25m (19) Up the arete for a couple of bolts, then a vital #2 Camalot in a funny orange pocket then wall on left side of arete past several bolts and a couple of cams to belay on top of alarming detached block forming ledge. If you've survived the soft rock on this pitch you might as well continue upwards with a bit more air!

3. 40m (19) The money pitch - if your money comes rolled up and splattered with blood and drugs from a wild night out. Spaced cams up the narrow arete for 10m to first thankful bolt. Repeat this experience four times, being very careful with large loose rocks near the top. Belay at double rings on small ledge above roof. Either rap back to the ground here or top out via next mini pitch.

4. 8m (12) Jugs (and you) that may or may not stay attached to top of cliff and tree belay. Not much gear on this pitch.

This route originally traversed in from Colosseum Corner, possibly along the line now bolted as pitch one of Sublime & the Ridiculous, or along a lower break starting at Golden Giles. The exact way has been lost to antiquity. The described first pitch linking into the lower section of the arete direct was added by Monteith in 2010. The rest was retrobolted in early 2017.

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.