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The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Blueys (needs a 70m+ rope, 23 draws, and a re-thread at the first belay when lowering off). The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.

Starts 4m left of 'Ben Trovato' at small tree.

  1. 20m (22) Stem off tree for a few moves, then a bouldery pull onto the flake to reach better holds. Motor up lovely orange rock to anchor on small ledge. The start has been done without the tree at 23/4, but this makes the pitch less classic.

  2. 28m (24) 'Fantastic' climbing. Loads of bolts. Pumper crux at the top and superb rock. WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH when lowering back to the belay.

Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: P1 Neil Monteith & P2 Chris Coghill, 2010


Located in Ben Trovato Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337308,-33.735159

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
22 * * Blue Mountains Climbing
23 Adam Bramwell
24 *** *** ACA Route Register
22, 24

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped solid crux sustained difficult tough hard super fun cool rad nice good classy great exciting awesome fall runout tricky flake crap rest undercling epic jugs technical

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Check out what is happening on Guillotine (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.