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Description:

The first pitch is perhaps the best easy sport route on the wall and the second pitch is even better!! Link them together and you have one of the best pitches at the grade in the Bluies. You will need a 70m rope and 23 draws (some long), and re-thread at the first belay when lowering off. The route name comes from the frightening flake that fell off when Neil was bolting the first pitch - which is now embedded in the ground at the base. Historically this route has a murky past - the first pitch had a couple of poorly placed rings in already, that Neil pulled out with his fingers (!), whilst the 2nd pitch had been half bolted with carrots by Giles Bradbury in the 90s but then abandoned.

Starts 4m left of 'Ben Trovato' at small tree.

  1. 20m (22) Stem off tree for a few moves, then a bouldery pull onto the flake to reach better holds. Motor up lovely orange rock to anchor on small ledge. The start can been done without the tree at 23/4, but this makes the pitch less classic.

  2. 28m (24) 'Fantastic' climbing. Loads of bolts. Pumper crux at the top and superb rock. WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH when lowering back to the belay.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: P1 Neil Monteith, P2 Chris Coghill, 2010

Location:  

Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 * * Blue Mountains Climbing
23 Adam Bramwell
24 Principal
24***
22, 24 *** Neil Monteith
24 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped solid crux sustained tough hard super fun cool rad nice good great exciting awesome fall runout tricky flake crap undercling epic jugs

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