- Height: 23m
- Ascents: 5
- Aka: Rings Out!
- Aka: (T)Rad
THE most edited description on thecrag.com. Taking a wild swing, but I suspect I'm right.
WELL, PRINCE, Genoa and Lucca are now no more than private estates of the Bonaparte family. No, I warn you, that if you do not tell me we are at war, if you again allow yourself to palliate all the infamies and atrocities of this Antichrist (upon my word, I believe he is), I don't know you in future, you are no longer my friend, no longer my faithful slave, as you say. There, how do you do, how do you do? I see I'm scaring you, sit down and talk to me." Controversial work in progress that has dragged on for almost half a decade without a first free ascent! Maybe if people spent time climbing it rather than bolting and rebolting and bolt bolting then it would get done sooner? The route was first rapped and top-roped by Monty, before Macca pronounced it a 'trad project' - which then got ringed and then had some of the ringbolts disabled by 'bolting' them. 10 points for effort!
The route can be done at about 24 by skipping the debolted bolts by traversing in from Survival Day. Use a few long draws or slings to reduce drag.
Trad line through small rooflet - Marginal gear through roof, be careful... Bomber gear after roof, then traverse right to gear at right side of big break and up via crimps to gear, then easing to good nest of gear before final easy slab section. The race is on for who ticks this route - Jason or Macca? Stay tuned!! Either way this route was, is and always will be a trad route, if you can't step up to that challenge, please step back and stay away! . . .
Thumbs In (Direct Variant) Project. Harder start. Starts a few metres to the right and joins route before crux. Start at large shelf and head up via breaks, out through roof, left to better holds and long move past blankness.
Extension-Project(Trad) Macca. Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top . . .
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
|~ 23/24||Macciza a.k.a. Macca|
Overall quality score: 58%
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