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THE most edited description on Taking a wild swing, but I suspect I'm right.

Controversial work in progress that has dragged on for almost half a decade without a reported first free ascent! Maybe if people spent time climbing it rather than retro-bolting it and bolt-bolting then it would get done sooner? Maybe if it didn't get bolted at all would have been best! The route was first rapped and top-roped by Monty on Aus Day 2012, before Macca tried it ground-up on the same day and pronounced it a 'trad project'. More than a year later it got ringed by Bundy with no consultation or notification or permit or authorization or management plan and then had some of the ringbolts disabled by 'bolting' through them. -10 points for the bolting, +10 points for the disabling effort -20 points for all the faffing and not actual climbing!

Trad line through small rooflet - Marginal gear through roof, be careful... Bomber gear after roof, then traverse right to gear at right side of big break and up via crimps to gear, then easing to good nest of gear before final easy slab section. The race is on for who ticks this route - Jason or Macca? Stay tuned!! Either way this route was, is and always will be a trad route, if you can't step up to that challenge, please step back and stay away! . . .

Thumbs In (Direct Variant) This is now the sport route Chalk Chops. Harder start. Starts a few metres to the right and joins route before crux. Start at large shelf and head up via breaks, out through roof, left to better holds and long move past blankness. Unfortunately this also got bolted after someone saw the chalk we left on it.

Extension-Project(Trad) Macca. Continue up from the big block straight up the steepening with limited small to medium large gear options turn the lip and up 5m to belay on ledge. Good gear is available here but bolts might be placed to allow lowering or continue to top . . .

Ethic: inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.


Route History:


Located in Binary Cave approx:
Lat/Long: -33.736309,150.337790

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

~ 23/24 **Macciza a.k.a. Macca

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 61%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux tough good

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Check out what is happening on Thumbs Out! (Project) (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.