Section navigation


Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark.

  1. 25m (18) First pitch of Whymper. Head diagonally rightwards past U bolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right.
  2. 26m (18) Plumb-line up black wall on ring-bolts to DBB.
  3. 21m (18) Up and left under roof on orange rock (clip 60cm runner on third bolt to minimize rope drag). Bridge up into corner of roof and traverse right through lip and onto wall above and DBB.
  4. 23m (20) Trend slightly right past interesting features and small overlap, to good holds and stance under roof. Strenuous moves left onto black wall above and up past flake (caution!) to DBB.
  5. 25m (17) Fun juggy climbing through steps, to corner with short pocketed wall on left. Bridge up then step right onto final short wall and up toward tree. A final U-bolt is hidden just below cliff edge, as a directional. Recommend sling belay from tree 5m further up slope, and extend yourself back to edge with the rope (take extreme care with loose rocks!).

Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Tom & Hannah Hepner, May 2010


Located in Middle Cliffs approx:
Long/Lat: 150.337527,-33.735789

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 Jason Lammers
20 Principal
20 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained tough sweet great fun cool nice rest roof

Learn about creating circuits.