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Description

Slabby to vertical wall up to 15m high.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up obvious crack line on arete.

  1. 15m (12) Follow the right seam up the arete placing gear as you go, traversing left to tree and ledge beneath blank face.

  2. 5m (6) Scramble up dirty gully.

FA: Rod Wills & Kevin Van Tilburg, 2000

4m right of CR.

Line of ring bolts up orange streak finishing at double rings above bulge.

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2001

Line of ring bolts on left side of 'Arete', finishing up WW on slab. 4 ring bolts + DRBB

FA: Rod Wills, 2002

Follow line of ring bolts up arete to slab finish. DRBB

FA: Rod Wills, 2000

2m right of the big crack. Follow line of ring bolts up thin face, to hard move over bulge.(Crux). Finish up slab to lower offs.

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2001

Up arete 6m right of NSU. Laybacks and crimps with crux after second ring bolt

FA: Rod Wills, 2002

Up crack and some loose rock down low to great top half. 1m right of small cave. DRBB.

FFA: David Filan, 2011

Short bouldery route. DRBB.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2011

Up clean streak over slab to shared lower offs

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2012

Start is at grade then easier moves from ledge to ledge.

FA: Arlo, 2013

Juggy start to slabby finish.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2012

On faint arete, Juggy face to sloppy top

FFA: Kevin Van Tildburg, 2011

1m right of Paperbag, Reachy start up juggy face tending slightly right to shared lower offs.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2011

Hard start jamming up crack, getting easier after the second bolt to shared anchors

FFA: Rod wills, 2013

Just left of groove, Balancey reachy start, through 3 varied mantles to the top. Drop a grade or two if your tall

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

1m rt of AGS, balance and smear up tricky slab and then layback to glory.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

Layback up right side of flake, step onto wall and up slot between the walls

FFA: Rod wills, 2013

Onto attached flake, step right across onto face and up over juggy bulge.

FFA: Kevin van tilburg

2m rt of A, Straight up face, over bulge to top.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2013

2m rt of TWSS, again straight up face over bulge to juggy face

FFA: Rod Wills, 2013

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