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Description

Nice crag with one cliff in the sun all day and the other getting afternoon sun.

For lower Pole 28 area (actually part of the old Flying Fox crag) access by rapping off the power-pole atop the cliff, just downhill from the upper Pole 28 left-side climbs (Alpha Male etc). Alternatively, walk access via the Three Brothers area, following the cliff line RIGHT (north) from the base of the lower descent gully for several hundred metres, past FatF & Copperhead on Ice, and eventually to a massive amphitheatre with an obvious traverse crack in a smooth steep wall.

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Just a Little Late Sport 15m

Start on left of main wall at slight corner. Follow left line of rings to lower-offs.

FA: J DeMartin, 2010

2
23 * Beavermart Sport 15m

Start as for JaLL until second ring then head slightly right and follow rings to lower-offs.

FA: D Taylor, 2008

3
21 * Path to Paradise Sport 15m, 10

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

FA: D Taylor, 2008

4

start 5m right of PtP. Scramble up to ledge, clip ring in roof then straight up to lower-offs.

FA: M Spring, 2008

5
23 * Bubble Guts Sport 15m, 8

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

FA: D Taylor, 2008

6
18 No Lunch Sport 14m

Left most line

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

7
21 * Desensitise Sport 12m

Direct between the scoops

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

8
21 * Alpha Male Sport 10m, 6

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

9
22 * LoFi Sport 10m

Up AM, then continue directly up the arete.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

10
22 HiFi Sport 10m

First 2 bolts on BM then head left passing another bolt to gain arete and finish as per LoFi.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

11
20 * Beta Mail Sport 10m, 4

Fourth climb along the left wall, a few metres past the blunt arete and Alpha Male.

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

12
20 Find my iPhone Sport 10m

Arete to shared lower off with SM

FA: Jason Lammers & Tanya Greeves, 2011

13
22 * Shoalhaven Mayor Sport 10m

Cool orange streak

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers, 2011

14
17 Surprisingly Sweet Sport 10m

Right of SM

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

15
Project - Chris Mixed Project 12m, 4

Very steep. Initially attempted all on gear, but bolts added when gear started to pull through the placements! Still needs a few wires at the end. Rap station/loweroff on headwall above.

Start: Seam in the roof.

16
25 * Fierce Fin Sport 12m, 8

Hard start and little wall then right on jugs through the roof.

Start: Middle of big cave.

FA: Karen Allen, 2011

17

Up the easy start to lip of cave. Traverse the lip "Pulling On The Porcelain" style and finally haul yourself up the orange head wall.

Set by Jason Lammers

18
22 * Wave Priority Sport 18m, 8

First 5 bolts of HW then directly up to tricky mantle and slab finish

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

19
23 *** Heat Wave Sport 18m

Up the steep crack, then move right to lip and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20

Hard start to overhung arete - pull around this onto bright orange headwall.

FA: Project - Rick and bundy

21
21 Brother in a Lolly Bag Sport 15m, 7

Orange face on left side of shale cave, about 20m right of previous route. Right trending line to lip of small roof, hard move above this then flake to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

22
18 * Foxy the Fruit Bat Sport 20m

Starts in obvious orange corner and follows rings around roof at mid height.

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

23
21 ** Bewilderbeast Mixed 20m, 4

The following route is located at Pole 28 LOWER CLIFF (in the huge cave/overhang). See intro to area for directions.

Mixed Route: 4 bolts plus med-large cams (double #2; 3, 4 Camalot). Lower-off.

In the huge cave/overhang near the drainage/notch directly below Upper Pole 28. Start on the left where the horizontal splitter leaves a ledge.

With first piece placed, launch into a pumpy no- footer L-R hand traverse (no. 3 then no. 4 Camalot) before passing 3 bolts where the crack widens, then a 4th bolt heading straight up the steep wall on crimps to horizontal break (no. 2 Camalot ideal but a no. 1 or 3 would work) and lower-off anchors just left of arête.

FA: Tom Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson, 2010

24
22 * Copperhead on Ice Sport 50m

On the LOWER cliff. A few hundred metres along the cliff (north-east) walking from Crankenfurten (see Three Brothers area) and about 50m short of Bewilderbeast. Up to double rings, then continue as for FatF.

FA: M Spring, 2008

25

On LOWER cliff. Starts between the small double arete, 3m left of Copperhead on Ice. Line of ringbolts to power-pole at cliff edge of upper Pole 28 area.

FA: D Taylor, M Spring, A Bergman, 2000

26

Start right of Brothers K at crack.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

27
22 * Brothers K Sport 15m, 5

Named after my kinship, the three brothers. Really nice climbing on good features, with just a few spicy moves. Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Start: Up the centre of a narrow south-facing wall with an undercut start and a corner to the right. FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson - 2010-00-00

FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom 'T-bor' Thomson, 2010

28
22 ** Hooyah ! Sport 18m, 8

2m right of corner. Up the techo red wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

29

Impressive looking line of bolts up a steep orange nose.

30

The very impressive looking line of u-bolts up a steep orange nose.

Start: About 15m right of BK

FA: Closed Project, Tom Hepner, 2000

31

Start: Start 5 mtrs Right of Damned do and follow rising left traverse

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000