A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Devondale / Sunbath Bouldering 14 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Devondale 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.670854, 150.274578
description
A large weatherproof overhang covered in chalky holds. A lot of traversing and a few hard, steep problems. Good for training but not that inspiring. The approach track and cave is located on private property as part of the 12 Belgravia Street estate. Access could be removed at any time - do not leave rubbish, mattresses or light fires. if approached by the owners please be respectful. Any problems contact ACANSW.
access issues
Many of these crags are located on private property - and could be closed at any time. Do not piss off local residents by parking cars at the end of Belgravia St - park back near the train line and walk 100m up the road.
The Belgravia St descent track and Devondale bouldering is located on private property (it is NOT owned by the Hydro Majestic Hotel). This property changed hands in 2018 for a cool $1.9 million, and the new landowners have not expressed concerns about the public on their land - yet. It is very important that this property is treated with utmost respect - and if you are approached by the owners then please be courteous. If they have concerns please get them to contact ACANSW.
Blue Mountains City Council is the land manager for The Block, Katoomba Bros, Sandpit, Valley Farm & Sooty Crag. Access to all these areas is via the private land mentioned above.
The mega lux Hydro Majestic Hotel owns private land that includes the Sunbath Wall, Reservoir Dogs, Sporting Complex, The Underworld & Pole 28. Access to to these private land crags is NOT guaranteed and could be closed at any time.
DJ crag is also located on private property - with the owner apparently living below the cliff itself.
approach
From the end of Belgravia Street, follow the private property track down the hill as for the Sunbath. Take the first right turn down an overgrown track. This soon crosses another track - continue heading straight down the hill, past some scrambly sections, to the base of the first cliffline. The bouldering area is straight ahead on the left, some unknown routes are to the right.
It is also possible to walk around from the Sunbath climbing area (much longer and overgrown). From the Sandpit, continue heading around the cliffs to the North, following a rough track. The track turns to the right and negotiates some big rocks before the bouldering area.
ethic
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
   |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ The Traverse
Right to left staying below the choss ledge at the end. A good pumper - grade 25? | V4 | 20m | |||||
| 2 |
The traverse extension
As per 'The traverse' continue climbing left last 3mtrs on crimps and bad feet | 26 | ||||||
| 3 |
The traverse reverse
Climb as per 'The traverse' right to left ending at arete flat jug then reverse the whole thing without coming off | 26 | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Bengal double dip
Start matched on rail under roof. Use the cool undercling pinch thing. | V6 | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ I'm a fucking baby
Start matched on a corner block just left of the blunt arete and move up through some compression crimps. | V6 | 3m | |||||
| 6 |
★ Dude no stresssss
Start in scoop on the blunt arete. Use the undercling to do some tings. | V5 | 3m | |||||
| 7 |
★ V5G
Start on good holds, through undercling and big move to edges. Powerful. | V5 | ||||||
| 8 |
★★ Half Hour Haircut
Very low start on opposing good sidepulls with feet on back wall. Move up and right through the amazing pinch, then straight up and finish on ledge. Much easier for the tall. | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Just chips thanks
Start on flat jug 3 meters right of HHH and climb straight up. | V3 | ||||||
| 10 |
★★ The Second Wave
Link Half Hour Haircut into the reversed traverse. Pumpy start leads to easier finish. Giving this a boulder grade doesn't seem useful, but no harder than V4 | 25 | ||||||
 /b2/9b/b29b3e13f50e9d924f835835a893a3d4aff0304b)  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|
There are two short, easy sport routes on a wall to the north of the main overhang (to the left facing the overhang). There is an easy Trad finger-crack route around corner past cave | ||||||||
| 12 |
Unknown A
Orange slabby face just right of corner. First ascent info unknown. Looks under grade 20. | 8m | ||||||
| 13 |
Unknown B
5m left of Unknown A. Juggy face. First ascent info unknown. If it was at the Sunbath it would be permachalked. | 8m | ||||||
| 14 |
Unknown
Incorrect route in process of being deleted (I am the author). Trying to work out merging because delete option unavailable | |||||||
| 15 |
Fraggle Pleasures
Directly around corner from boulder cave (in direction of Sunbath), or reach top by walking over cave and facing across valley. Surely would have been climbed previously, considering location. Lower finger crack a one or two move wonder comparable to Hope (Piddington) but softer rock. Can build a decent anchor above the lower crack. Followed by unprotected slab and poorly protected face | 25m | ||||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| V3 | ★★ | Just chips thanks | |||
| V4 | ★★ | Half Hour Haircut | 3m | ||
| ★★ | The Traverse | 20m | |||
| 25 | ★★ | The Second Wave | |||
| V5 | ★ | Dude no stresssss | 3m | ||
| ★ | V5G | ||||
| 26 | The traverse extension | ||||
| The traverse reverse | |||||
| V6 | ★★ | Bengal double dip | |||
| ★★ | I'm a fucking baby | 3m | |||
| ? | Fraggle Pleasures | 25m | |||
| Unknown | |||||
| Unknown A | 8m | ||||
| Unknown B | 8m |