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Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

History

View historical timeline

Older route descriptions and "quotes' taken from George Owens (1995) Rockclimbs in the upper Blue Mountains, 2nd Ed. published by the SRC. Beware any mentioned ancient pitons and bolts.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start 8m left of Cerberus.

  1. 10m Chimney.

  2. 20m (14). Up tight chimney and bash up gully (Spare me! - Ed.)

FA: G. Owens, 1970

Start at corner 30m left of Orpheus Arete.

  1. 37m (crux). Corner into big left crack. Up to where corner and roof start, aid last 3m. Tension traverse left.

  2. 13m. Chimney, hole and corner (!!!) to bush.

FA: C. George, 1970

A variant end to Orpheus Arete.

From Orpheus Arete anchor 1 move left and up weakness in centre of wall.

FA: C. George

Start in tree 15 left of Embossed Carbuncle.

  1. 23m. Climb big tree to small tree and onto wall. (Or perhaps watch someone else do it? - Ed.) Traverse left and up to ledge. Block and piton belay.

  2. 34m (15). Over lip, right onto arete and up to bush.

FA: C. George, 1970

Start 2m left of Fibbertigibbet.

  1. 23m (14). Traverse left onto arete and up to block. Piton belay.

  2. 30m. Right and up through overhang. Left and up arete.

FA: C. George, 1970

Start on big block 5m left of "Who's Lead".

  1. 20m. Wall to piton belay.

  2. 33m. Wall and overhangs to bush.

FA: C. George

Start 5m left of Time Out

  1. 20m (10). Corner to cave and piton belay.

  2. 17m. Chimney and corner to piton belay.

  3. 10m. Chimney.

FA: G. Owens & B. Crouch, 1970

Start 12m left of Copernicus at base of arete.

  1. 17m (13). Arete (take care) to block and piton belay.

  2. 33m. Wall and easy overhangs.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Start. 53m right of Transvestite. "Pitch 1 is good." (Owens)

  1. 27m (17). Small left facing corner to bulge, left across to and on to ramp. Up roof to hand traverse left to arete and piton belay.

  2. 26m. Diagonally right toward gap in wall, up over bulge, slight right and up easily to bush.

FA: K. Bell & H. Bevan, 1970

I think they mean "Tycho Brahe". Not in 1992 guide.

FA: J. Smoothy & P. Butcher

Start 13m left of 'Psycho Arete'.

  1. 7m. Chimney to tree in corner on right.

  2. 13m. Corner to cave and piton belay.

  3. 40m (14). Overhang then slight right. Up easy wall to dead tree.

FA: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970

Start 13m left of Megalomaniac near small tree at arete.

  1. Tree and arete to ledge.

  2. (10) Arete to dead tree.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Start 3m left of Hair.

  1. 20m bolt runner left and up small corner, right and up to block, piton belay.

  2. 33m (13) Up to bolt runner, slight right and up. Traverse left, mantle and up to dead tree (still there after 47 years?? - Ed.).

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

Start 3m left of Skinhead.

  1. 23m Easy wall and crack to block and piton belay.

  2. 20m (8) Right-leading corners to tree.

  3. 7m Easy corner and slight overhang to tree well back.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

A varient start to Hair. Start 7m left of Riff-Raff.

  1. 13m Crack to tree.

  2. 24m Crack til it joins Hair.

  3. As for Hair or off right.

FA: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970

Start 7m left of No Time Climb.

  1. 13m To gully/corner, bush belay.

  2. 20m (8) Gully/corner to tree.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

Start 13m left of As You Like It.

  1. 14m (11) Chimney and traverse left to tree.

  2. 23m Traverse left and up bulge and gully. Walk off here?

  3. 10m Corner to walk down.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

A variant start to Nymphomaniac. Start 13m left of it at chimney/crack.

  1. 13m (6) Crack, out of cave and up to arete, to piton belay 1 of Nymphomaniac.

FA: R. Smith

A variant start to As You Like It, start 2m right of it.

  1. Finger crack and reach to cave.

FA: B., J. Harrington & R. Taylor, 1994

Start. 3m left of The Homo.

  1. 20m (13) Arete and piton belay.

  2. 23m (12) Up arete to tree.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens

(They certainly don't name 'em like they used to! - Ed.)

Start 2m left of Sultry.

  1. 18m (12) Wall and slight overhang to bollard.

  2. 22m Up and left, easier rock and corner to stump.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

Start 3m left of Aquarius.

  1. "Straight up." (Owens)

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Start 7m left of Deceptor Arete.

  1. 20m (8) Chimney tree to piton belay.

  2. 10m (8) Angled chimney and left side of block to tree.

FA: G. Owens, 1970

Start 13m left of rap route.

  1. 14m Short wall to tree.

  2. 13m (12) Up tree, onto wall, up arete.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

"Not great." (Owens). Start 3m right of rap route.

  1. 10m Crack to cave and tree.

  2. 17m (11) Corner to left, up and out chimney, traverse right and jump to corner. Or ramp to right, through hole and up same corner.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

Start 2m right of Blowfly.

  1. 10m scrubby crack.

  2. 30m Bulge, up crack and wall to tree.

FA: P. Edwards & G. Owens, 1970

Start 47m right of Contemplation at marked chimney/corner.

  1. 27m (7) Chimney to piton belay.

  2. 14m Easily up chimney and gully.

FA: G. Harrison & G. Owens, 1970

Start 2m right of Inexperience.

  1. 27m (crux) Bridge tree, aid bulge, up (traverse back to left to protect second), then right to arete and bollard.

  2. 13m Up, traverse 6m left, up and right around top. Easy to piton belay.

FA: G. Owens, 1970

Start 66m right of Delilah.

  1. 40m Up chimney/corner to ledge. Smaller chimney and easy overhangs to bollard.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Start 27m right of Easy Day below short corner near forked tree.

  1. 46m Into corner, up to ledge, step left then up weakness to tree.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

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