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Park at the west end of Belgravia St, 'Medlow Bath'. Follow a well trod track west down the hill for about 300m. When you reach a circular concrete "bath" (full of leaf litter and rubbish, not water), you've gone about 50m past the walk-down. Go back to the walk-down and follow it down the gully. Pitang Wall is immediately on your right as you reach the bottom of the gully, 'Schwing' Wall is immediately to your left. 'Atoms in Action' area is 60-80m around right (north) of Pitang Wall.


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Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The Sandpit

Just around the corner from Manana. Climbs described right to left

22 * Wok Hay Sport 15m

FA: P.Mort & G.Short

19 ** Poultry in Motion Sport 15m

FA: G.Short & P.Mort

21 ** Viper Sport 15m

FA: M.Ashmore & Jacqui

18 ** Loki Trad 12m

FA: G.Short & P.Mort

13 Hootenanny Trad 12m

FA: G.Short & P.Mort

Katoomba Brothers area

14 ** Mañana Sport 22m, 8

Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting! 8 BR's to a 2 RB belay.

Start: Start 40m left of KB at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof.

FA: Peter Chaly & Niall Doherty, 2003

4 * Kaboomba Brothers Sport 10m, 4

4 carrots up the slab (take brackets). The first move is tricky for those at the grade.

FA: B. Junge, 1994

17 to 18 Spook Eyes Sport 6m, 4

Line of ring bolts up hanging slab. Apparently the crack 1m to the right is off route.

Start: 2m right (facing in) of 'Kaboomba Brothers'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2006


Go up orange streak, face moves only, no use of crack or arete. Fairly contrived, but a nice sequence of moves.

FA: Ed Rutherford

20 ** Radioactive Man Sport 12m

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

25 * Atoms in Action Sport 12m

Damaged crux bolt has now been replaced and old bolt removed. - P.T, 08/11/2014.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

The Block/Pintang Crag

15 Pitang Pitang Sport 12m, 6

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

13 Ole Biscuit Barrel Sport 15m, 5

Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles.

Start: The leftmost route on the wall.

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

17 * Cardinal Fang Sport 15m, 5

Straight up the face, crossing OBB and sharing one of its bolts, to chain/ring lower off. 5 BR's in total.

Start: Start 2m right of OBB.

FA: Niall Doherty

20 ** Strange Karma Sport 15m

If you are tall this will feel like an 18

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994


Start as for GFL, then left to big move off small holds

23 * Gas, Food, Lodging Sport 20m

Central worn orange streak. Easy start up small left facing corner to blank finish. A hold has broken off this move so undercling the break and dyno away!

FA: A. Farquar, 1994

18 ** Old Salt Sport 18m

Fun climb with nice moves, ive seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the loweroffs - Dont let the rope go behind your legs!

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

17 * Mainly Fine Sport 16m

After start trend right towards arete then up on dirty rock.

Start: 1m right of 'Old Salt'.

FA: Ed Rutherford

Schwing Wall


Corner left end of the well. Up crack then across to anchors

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

22 ** It Goes! Sport 15m

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

18 ** Schwing Sport 55m 2
  1. 20m (18)

  2. 35m (15)

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

18 ** Schwing Pitch 1 Sport 20m

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

15 ** Schwing Pitch 2 Sport 35m

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

19 ** Empty Chairs Sport 10m, 3

Up, staying right of S, after second RB up and traverse to third. 3 RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Niall Doherty

22 ** Just Boot It Sport 15m

Start: Around to the right of shwing.

FA: G. Trambaiolo


Start: Left (facing out) around the corner from Schwing, 7m past Just Boot It. Belay ring at head height, at the start of the low roof.

Clip into the belay bolt! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece.

FA: Niall Doherty & Mike Patterson, 2006

19 ** Gimme Shelter Sport 35m, 14

10m right (facing in) of Just Boot It. Up light coloured chossy face, go right around roof, then up and left. Two pitches, or climb as one, lower to halfway anchor, then rap from that.

FA: Niall Doherty & Peter Chaly


Can be accessed via The Lottery of Latitude instead of GS P1.

FA: Niall Doherty & Peter Chaly


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