Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

Park at the west end of Belgravia St, 'Medlow Bath'. Follow a well trod track west down the hill for about 300m. When you reach a circular concrete "bath" (full of leaf litter and rubbish, not water), you've gone about 50m past the walk-down. Go back to the walk-down and follow it down the gully. Pitang Wall is immediately on your right as you reach the bottom of the gully, 'Schwing' Wall is immediately to your left. 'Atoms in Action' area is 60-80m around right (north) of Pitang Wall.

© (aca_admin)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route

The Sandpit

Just around the corner from Manana. Climbs described right to left

1
22 Wok Hay Sport 15m

FA: P.Mort, G.Short

2
19 ** Poultry in Motion Sport 15m

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

3
21 * Viper Sport 15m

FA: M.Ashmore, Jacqui

4
18 * Loki Trad 12m

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

5
13 Hootenanny Trad 12m

FA: G.Short, P.Mort

Katoomba Brothers area

6
14 ** Mañana Sport 22m, 8

Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting! 8 BR's to a 2 RB belay.

Start: Start 40m left of KB at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof.

FA: Peter Chaly, Niall Doherty, 2003

7
4 Kaboomba Brothers Sport 10m, 4

4 carrots up the slab (take brackets). The first move is tricky for those at the grade.

FA: B. Junge, 1994

8
17 Wanker? / Spook Eyes Sport 10m

FA: Ed Rutherford (Route is Called "Spook Eyes")

9
19 Spook Eyes Sport 10m

Line of ring bolts up hanging slab. Apparently the crack 1m to the right is off route.

Start: 2m right (facing in) of 'Kaboomba Brothers'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2006

10

Go up orange streak, face moves only, no use of crack or arete. Fairly contrived, but a nice sequence of moves.

FA: Ed Rutherford

11
20 * Radioactive Man Sport 12m

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

12
25 Atoms in Action Sport 12m

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

The Block/Pintang Crag

13
14 Pitang Pitang Sport 12m, 6

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

14
13 Ole Biscuit Barrel Sport 15m, 5

Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles.

Start: The leftmost route on the wall.

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

15
17 Cardinal Fang Sport 15m, 5

Straight up the face, crossing OBB and sharing one of its bolts, to chain/ring lower off. 5 BR's in total.

Start: Start 2m right of OBB.

FA: Niall Doherty

16
20 * Strange Karma Sport 15m

If you are tall this will feel like an 18

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

17
22 unknown Sport 20m
18
22 Gas, Food, Lodging Sport 20m

Central worn orange streak. Easy start up small left facing corner to blank finish. A hold has broken off this move so either dyno this end move (grade 24+) or dodge right a metre to sloping pockets (grade 22).

FA: A. Farquar, 1994

19
18 * Old Salt Sport 18m

Fun climb with nice moves, ive seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the loweroffs - Dont let the rope go behind your legs!

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

20
17 Mainly Fine Sport 16m

After start trend right towards arete then up on dirty rock.

Start: 1m right of 'Old Salt'.

FA: Ed Rutherford

Schwing Wall

21

Corner left end of the well. Up crack then across to anchors

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

22
22 * It Goes! Sport 15m

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

23
18 ** Schwing Sport 55m
  1. 20m (18)

  2. 35m (18)

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

24
18 ** Schwing Pitch 1 Sport 20m

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

25
15 * Schwing Pitch 2 Sport 35m

FA: G. Short, P. Mort, 1994

26
19 * Empty Chairs Sport 10m, 3

Up, staying right of S, after second RB up and traverse to third. 3 RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Niall Doherty

27
22 ** Just Boot It Sport 15m

Start: Around to the right of shwing.

FA: G. Trambaiolo

28

Start: Left (facing out) around the corner from Schwing, 7m past Just Boot It. Belay ring at head height, at the start of the low roof.

Clip into the belay bolt! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece.

FA: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson, 2006

29
19 * Gimme Shelter Sport 35m, 14

10m right (facing in) of Just Boot It. Up light coloured chossy face, go right around roof, then up and left. Two pitches, or climb as one, lower to halfway anchor, then rap from that.

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly

30

Can be accessed via The Lottery of Latitude instead of GS P1.

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly