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Description

WARNING: A massive landslide Zucchini Crack / Finnegan's Wake has made that route and the routes beyond it inaccessible by destroying the access ledge, and possibly damaging the rock on the surrounding climbs.

It MIGHT be possible to climb these routes IF you can get to the base, but be EXTREMELY careful of the rock quality, and any bolts or fixed gear.

All routes BEFORE Zucchini Crack / Finnegan's Wake (including Love, Beauty and Danger , The Wake of the Flood, Mixed Business and The Conflagration) are okay to climb.

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Slabby side of arete.

Set by B. Ashby

Steep arete pumper.

FA: B. Ashby, 2004

Up Pure Spirit for 8m to ledge then up following rings.

FA: B. Ashby, 2004

Start 60m right of tunnel at left leading corner marked PS.

  1. 8m Corner to tree.

  2. To right wall, diagonally up and right around arete via pulpit cave and up to ledge with a roof. #Historical "A small, senescent tree exists as a belay, with a rickety piton half inserted into a small crack." [Allen 1963]

  3. Escape roof of ledge by traversing right along ledge and down to gully.

  4. "Climb the gully by backing and footing out from under neath the overhanging chockstone. Scramble easily off to the right, or straight ahead."

FA: P. Hardie & D. Litchfield, 1960

Start as for Pure Spirit.

  1. 8m Corner to tree.

  2. 17m (12) Corner and slab to tree.

  3. 30m Ramp to path. (Owens 1995)

This climb is now mostly dirt and vegetation, interspersed with moments of below average rock and pro.

3a. 10m (16) Escape the Dihedral Of Dirt via short ironstone wall with crack at base.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Definately climbed before, but no FA details. Listed as an unknown "thin crack ??" in Rockclimbs In the Upper Blue Mountains Second Edition.

The clean-looking thin corner crack just past Pure Spirit. Up thin corner, through sandy bulge, and up flared crack above.

Either continue up corner/face for another pitch back to Sunbath area, or rap off tree hanging out over cliff.

FFA: Ben Young (L) & P. Thomson (S)., 2013

An excellent two-pitch bolted route that climbs a proud, clean arete. Both pitches can be combined for an excellent long pitch which eliminates the hanging belay.

Access by walking down the tunnel/stairs from The Block area, and turning left towards the Colosseum at the marked intersection, and walking approx 100m along the base of the cliff. Do not confuse this with the first bolted arete you come to! Coordinates at the base of the climb are S 33° 40.331', E 150° 16.499'.

  1. 20m (23 M0) Stick clip and batman to the first bolt. If bringing a second up the pitch, hang a long sling from the first bolt so that they can use it for aid. Thin arete moves past three more bolts to a rest, then balancy moves lead to a tough mantle and another rest. Move right under the roof, then wild moves up and around the lip to the desperate anchor clip and semi-hanging belay. 9 Bolts.

  2. 25m (21) Hard move off the belay, then classic arete slapping and laying away. Exposed and atmospheric. Finishes at a good stance. 11 RB to a DRB belay.

To escape, either rap the route to the ground and walk out, or CAREFULLY scramble 10m up the slope to the gravel ledge at the base of Gimme Shelter on the upper cliffline. Best to belay each other and sling a bushes on the way up. There are double rings at the base of GS to top belay the second person.

This pitch can be accessed from above by abseiling down from the double rings at the base of Gimme Shelter, and rapping the route to the ground. A 60m route reaches the ground.

FA: Niall Doherty & Rod Smith (second), 2006

Amazing climbing up a long blunt arete, but quite tough. Just a single aid move low-down on the route!

Start as for Mixed Business, up for 8m, then follow line of bolts heading left to the arete. Aid off first bolt on the arete, then climb free to the top.

FA: G. Bradbury, 1984

Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a 50:50 ratio of gear to bolts. Take doubles of Cams BD 0.50 to #3, and a single of wires/nuts.

Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 2005

One of the best trad climbs in the Blue Mountains. Long and extremely varied. All three pitches can be combined into a single mega-pitch if you climb on double-ropes and bring enough gear.

  1. 20m (20) - Up crack to V-chimney. Belay on ledge above Chimney.

  2. 20m (21) - Steep crack to body-squeeze slot. Belay on obvious ledge.

  3. 10m (23) - Tricky finger crack to belay on old carrot bolts (23).

To escape, traverse 3m left (past a new bolt) to new rap anchors. 1 x 50m rap to the ground.

FA: ajax greene greg child, 1977

Start at the slab directly below the lower hand crack of TWotF at carrot. Take BD cams 0.3 - #3 WITH doubles of #1 and #2 and either a #4 OR #5.

Up slab past carrot and gear to hand crack (shared with TWotF). Up hand crack and break left where crack splits (TWotF continues more directly up and right), and up into dihedral past more gear to a bolt. Then up finger crack to ledge. Left a move, then continue up past 7 more bolts following the line of the bolts to anchors on top ledge of stunning red wall. Can also continue up Mixed Business or The Wake of the Flood (P3) to top out.

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

#Historical [Allen 1963]

Start: At base of a long deep chimney approx 300m right of Pure Spirit.

  1. (35m) Back up long chimney, wrestle with tree halfway up and continue climbing, or traverse delicately either way out of chimney. Continue to left above chimney, and climb exposed "dirty nose".

  2. Up grassy ledge to corner with long block-like ridge between containing walls. Tricky start, up until roof, awkward step left, then along to a large tree belay.

  3. Up to very large grassy ledge with large trees, up right to very bushy ledge and scramble up to "L" shaped corner [next cliffline?].

  4. Climb wall on left in long pitch. Or "Corner. Arete left or corner has been climbed. Not good." [Owens 1995]

FA: P. Hardie & D. Litchfield, 1960

Start: Unknown. Piton and bolt runners and large cams?

  1. Slab.

  2. Seam.

FA: P. Stebbins, 1992

WARNING: A massive landslide above this route has made this route inaccessible, destroyed the belay ledge, and possibly damaged the route! It MIGHT be possible to climb this route IF you can get to the base, but be EXTREMELY careful of the rock quality, and the in-situ rap-tree to escape the route.

The hand to finger crack up the sandy wall well past Wake Of The Flood. Originally called Zucchini Crack when first climbed. Re-climbed recently and accidentally claimed as an FA under the name Finnegans Wake (as per the Blue Mountains guidebook). Has gotten harder over the years because of the terribly sandy rock.

Hand & finger jamming, then into incipient seam to tree (Finnegans Wake ends here), then further up crack to where it ends, and step left and follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

WARNING: A massive landslide above Zucchini Crack / Finnegen's Wake has made this route inaccessible by destroying the access ledge, and possibly damaged the route itself! It MIGHT be possible to climb this route IF you can get to the base, but be EXTREMELY careful of the rock quality, and any in-situ bolts/gear.

FA: W. Baird, 2000

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