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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 Pure Spirit Trad

FA: P. Hardie, 1960

2

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

3
17 * Red Solo Cup Trad 20m

Definately climbed before, but no FA details. Listed as an unknown "thin crack ??" in Rockclimbs In the Upper Blue Mountains Second Edition.

The clean-looking thin corner crack just past Pure Spirit. Up thin corner, through sandy bulge, and up flared crack above.

Either continue up corner/face for another pitch back to Sunbath area, or rap off tree hanging out over cliff.

FFA: Ben Young (L), P. Thomson (S)., 2013

4
23 ** Love, Beauty and Danger Sport 45m, 20

Base of climb GPS coordinates: S 33deg 40.331' E 150deg 16.499'

FA: P2 Niall Doherty, Rod Smith, 2006

FA: Niall Doherty (P1, P2), Rod Smith (second, P2), 2006

5

FA: Niall Doherty

6

FA: Niall Doherty, Rod Smith (second)

7
25 M1 * Shiver Me Timbers Aid 50m

FA: G. Bradbury, 1984

8
25 ** Mixed Business Trad 50m

Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a 50:50 ratio of gear to bolts. Take doubles of Cams BD 0.50 to #3, and a single of wires/nuts.

Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 2005

9
23 *** Wake of the Flood Trad 45m
  1. Crack to V-chimney, belay on ledge above Chimney. (20); 2. Steep crack to body-squeeze, belay on obvious ledge. (21); 3. Tricky finger crack to belay on old carrot bolts (23). Traverse 3m left (past a bolt) to new rap anchors and 1 x 50m rap to the ground.

New Rap Anchors installed 3m left of belay at end of WotF 3rd pitch. 1 x 50m Rap to the ground. - P.T, 16/03/2014.

FA: G. Bradbury, 1984

10
13 Ginsling Unknown
11
23 Lost at Birth Unknown 35m
12

The hand to finger crack up the sandy wall well past Wake Of The Flood. Originally called Zucchini Crack when first climbed. Re-climbed recently and accidentally claimed as an FA under the name Finnegans Wake (as per the Blue Mountains guidebook). Has gotten harder over the years because of the terribly sandy rock.

Hand & finger jamming, then into incipient seam to tree (Finnegans Wake ends here), then further up crack to where it ends, and step left and follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Mark Burton, 1980

13
26 * Baird’s Route Sport 50m

FA: W. Baird, 2000