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Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
13 Pure Spirit Trad

FA: P. Hardie, 1960


FA: B. Crouch, 1970

17 * Red Solo Cup Trad 20m

Definately climbed before, but no FA details. Listed as an unknown "thin crack ??" in Rockclimbs In the Upper Blue Mountains Second Edition.

The clean-looking thin corner crack just past Pure Spirit. Up thin corner, through sandy bulge, and up flared crack above.

Either continue up corner/face for another pitch back to Sunbath area, or rap off tree hanging out over cliff.

FFA: Ben Young (L) & P. Thomson (S)., 2013

23 ** Love, Beauty and Danger Sport 45m, 2, 20

Base of climb GPS coordinates: S 33deg 40.331' E 150deg 16.499'

FA: P2 Niall Doherty & Rod Smith, 2006

FA: Niall Doherty (P1, P2), Rod Smith (second & P2), 2006


FA: Niall Doherty


FA: Niall Doherty & Rod Smith (second)

25 M1 * Shiver Me Timbers Aid 50m

FA: G. Bradbury, 1984

25 *** Mixed Business Trad 50m

Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a 50:50 ratio of gear to bolts. Take doubles of Cams BD 0.50 to #3, and a single of wires/nuts.

Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 2005

23 *** Wake of the Flood Trad 45m
  1. Crack to V-chimney, belay on ledge above Chimney. (20); 2. Steep crack to body-squeeze, belay on obvious ledge. (21); 3. Tricky finger crack to belay on old carrot bolts (23). Traverse 3m left (past a bolt) to new rap anchors and 1 x 50m rap to the ground.

New Rap Anchors installed 3m left of belay at end of WotF 3rd pitch. 1 x 50m Rap to the ground. - P.T, 16/03/2014.

FA: ajax greene greg child, 1977

24 ** The Conflagration Mixed 45m, 9

Start at the slab directly below the lower hand crack of TWotF at carrot. Take BD cams 0.3 - #3 WITH doubles of #1 and #2 and either a #4 OR #5.

Up slab past carrot and gear to hand crack. Up hand crack and break left where crack splits, and up into dihedral past more gear to a bolt. Then up finger crack to ledge. Left a move, then continue up past 7 more bolts following the line of the bolts to anchors on top ledge of stunning red wall. Can also continue up Mixed Business or The Wake of the Flood (P3) to top out.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

Set by Paul Thomson, 2014

FA: Paul Thomson, 2015

13 Ginsling Unknown
23 Lost at Birth Unknown 35m

The hand to finger crack up the sandy wall well past Wake Of The Flood. Originally called Zucchini Crack when first climbed. Re-climbed recently and accidentally claimed as an FA under the name Finnegans Wake (as per the Blue Mountains guidebook). Has gotten harder over the years because of the terribly sandy rock.

Hand & finger jamming, then into incipient seam to tree (Finnegans Wake ends here), then further up crack to where it ends, and step left and follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

26 * Baird’s Route Sport 50m

FA: W. Baird, 2000


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