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Description

The cliffline that runs underneath 'The Sunbath' area, away from the Coliseum and towards 'Sooty Crag'. An old neglected area with only a few newer climbs. Inspect all ancient (1965) pitons and bolts before launching into an adventure with a potentially insecure ending. Old climbs may be difficult to identify from lack of marking and overgrowth.

© (Niall)

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Approach

Access by going down the steps and ladders from 'The Sunbath'. The top of the descent is at the end of the track that runs underneath 'Old Salt' and adjacent climbs.

© (Niall)

Descent notes

Be careful descending as the track fence, steps, and ladders are in various states of disrepair.

© (Niall)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

History

View historical timeline

Trad and mixed aid routes were logged here in 1965, 1969 and 1980, with only a few recent sport routes.

© (Niall)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The following climbs start on the halfway ledge at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

Starts off the far left end of the ledge which is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

FA: Glenn Short & Pam Mort

Starts halfway out the ledge that is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

FA: Niall Doherty & Hamish Kerr

The following climbs start at the bottom of the cliff. Look for remnants of stone walls and cuttings on this wider part of the old track that provided access to the Valley Farm.

"Not good" (Owens) Start 30m left of stairs in small corner.

  1. 13m slight corner, right and up to bush.

  2. 17m, easy to right of steps.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

5m left of All Sorts. Finishes on ledge at 3 carrot belay of 'Virgins with Rifles'.

FA: Niall Doherty

Start: In corner 33m left of All Sorts.

  1. 13m, corner/chimney to tree.

  2. 17m, corner, traverse right on to wall and up to ledge (bolt belay).

  3. 13m, up.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

Start 10m left of Centaur.

  1. 20m (12) wall and thin crack.

  2. 33m, gully to right.

Start: In chimney 50m up right wall of big gully which is 73m left of Anonymous.

  1. 13m (8) chimney to tree.

  2. 17m, gully/corner.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

Start: 8m left of gully

  1. 13m (9) up to bolt belay.

  2. 17m, up.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

Start: In chimney/corner 30m left of Fruitless.

  1. 20m (crux) up to bolt runner, traverse right and up to piton and bolt belay.

  2. 13m, traverse right, up break in overhang and back left to bush.

  3. 14m, through bulge with piton runners and slight crack on right to top bolt belay.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

Start: 50m left of Trog.

  1. 20m, wall to tree.

  2. 20m, wall to tree.

  3. 10m (14), traverse under overhang, up crack.

FA: C. Monteath, 1969

Start: 5m right of Revolver.

  1. 26m, rising left traverse to orange corner, tree belay.

  2. 30m (crux), crack left of corner, back into crack and up to roof. Traverse left and up wall.

The arete left of Running Gun Blues. Up the arete and wall carefully past the nose then up the arete to a bolt on a small ledge. Crux past the bolt and up trending left to the corner. Up to belay.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

The wall left of Hard Day's Night. Straight up the wall to reach L into a wide crack. Up onto small ledge then follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn & Mark Burton, 1980

Start: 20m left of Rubber Soul

  1. 13m, easily up to bolt belay.

  2. 27m (crux) mantle above bolt runner, traverse left and up crack.

FA: C. Monteath, 1969

Start: 90m left of Hard Days Night at small left-leading corner under huge chimney.

  1. 13m (crux) steep corner, right to huge chimney.

  2. 14m, chimney to roof, traverse along roof, over lip and into slot.

  3. 30m, chimney/corner to roof, along and over. Corner, left, up.

FA: G. Owens, 1970

FFA: D. Murphy, 1995

Activity

Check out what is happening in Valley Farm.