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Description

A fantastic morning out. Rap in-climb out.

The rap point is at the top of 'Smoko' - you have to scramble down a few metres to them (take care!). Always a good idea to take a separate rap rope and leave it in place - just in case.

If you want, it is possible to do all the routes off the ledge. You will need a 60m rope or longer. All the routes start off the same small dirt ledge, so it can be cosy if more than one group is here.

The sun hits the crag at about 1:30pm in summer.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Approach

The approach is a bit of a rabbit warren of small foot tracks getting less and less distinct as you get further from the carpark. Check the guidebook.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 ** Being and Nothingness Sport 32m, 12

Starting up the easy slab a few metres left of Life of Riley, this line climbs the speckled orange streak near the vegetated crack, deviating into the crack briefly at the 7th bolt (where it would be contrived to avoid it) and rejoining the face at the 8th bolt, before heading through the bulge and up the vibrant orange streak to the top on weird pockets. Avoid straying off-route onto life of riley at the last hard moves.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2nd Jun

FA: Paul Thomson, 28th Jun

2

CLOSED PROJECT - PROJECT NEIL

Start up Life of Riley for two bolts then break left and up face. At 8th (?) bolt step left into major corner feature (vegetated). Up this for a few metres then finish up juggy headwall and last bolt/move of Life of Riley. This route has yet to be equipped fully.

Bolted for Neil "In Absentia", is he's too busy with Daddy Duties for Vertical Engineering Feats.

Set by Paul Thomson, 11th Jun

3
25 *** The Life of Riley Sport 35m

The grand classic of this wall. One of the best routes of this style in the mountains. Rebolted 2004.

FA: G. Child & J. Smoothy, 1993

4
23 ** Smoko Sport 35m, 16

Rebolted 2004, and much appreciated. However, be aware that the first bolt was moved lower, unfortunately into some very hollow rock.

Start: Start where the abseil lands you.

FA: G. Child & M. Law, 1993

5
25 *** Leviathan Sport 32m, 15

Start up Smoko, at the 2nd bolt head directly R to the 1st bolt on Leviathan, then up via power-crimping moves to gain the black streak that runs the length of this wall. Follow the black streak around the first steep flake, and up the wall staying between Smoko and GABDUY through the surprisingly steep final bulge (moving slightly R up the flake to gain a series of pockets, then back L up the line of bolts) to topout on top of the boulder.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2nd Jun

Set by Paul Thomson, 11th Jun

FA: Paul Thomson, 28th Jun

6
24 ** Get a Black Dog Up Ya Sport 35m 2, 17

Can be climbed in one long pitch - take several very long runners.

  1. 15m (19). As for LACS, belaying on triangular foot ledge on the arete.

  2. 20m (24). Directly up arete (as for up LACS pitch 2 past two FHs) then, where LACS's FHs trend R, head a little left and up following rings. If you top out straight above the last ring, belay options are poor (one old carrot about 10m up over the top). Probably better to step R from the last ring to find the DBB of LACS.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1999

7
21 ** Like a Cut Snake Sport 35m 2

Exposed and exciting (and due for a rebolt).

  1. 15m (21) Step R and up off the ledge, then follow the traverse line 5m R to near the arete. Up face on jugs, then step R to finish on the arete on triangular foot ledge. TBB.

  2. 20m (21) Follow the FHs up, then hard R (some long runners helpful) to super exposed arete conclusion and DBB on ledge.

FA: G. Child & M. Taylor, 1993

8

About 8m R of p2 of LaCS is a line of bolts. It looks like you'd have to rap in as it starts in the middle of nowhere.