- Description:© (mjw)
A fantastic morning out. Rebolted on the day the Medlow fires broke out! Craig and Mitch were literally chased up to the car park in Belgravia St by the fire. The rap point is at the top of 'Smoko' - you have to scramble down a few metres to them. If you want to it is possible to do all the routes off the ledge. Life of Riley has lower off anchors. You will need a 60m rope although there are rethreading anchors on all the climbs for those with only a 50m rope. All the routes start off the same small dirt ledge, so it can be cosy if more than one group is here. The sun hits the crag at about 1:30pm in summer. Leave the ants alone!
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.
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