Node |
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Medlow Bath
Diverse crag with lots of high quality low grade climbing all the way to epic adventures. |
Sooty Crag
A lovely remote orange face with a good collection of wall routes. Shade until midday in summer. |
Sooty Crag |
22
★★ Scorched Earth
Excellent technical slab and vertical wall. Far left bolted route 2m to the left of Abbey Road and finishing at that routes anchors. Climb direct to the anchors via pockets - don't bail right at horizontal break. |
18
★★ Abbey Road
This landmark right facing bolted flake crack is the best warm-up at the crag. Originally climbed on natural gear in 1980 and accidentally retrobolted in 2003 (where is was named Chimera). |
23
★★ Abbey Road Extension
Ignore first set of anchors and mantle onto ledge. Stem madly up brilliant retrobolted corner crack to loweroffs. This extension was how Rod's original trad 1980s route was done. |
20
★ Filed Away
Not the best route here but totally worth a go. Funky start through opening bulge then stop start featured wall above. |
24
★★★ Wildfire
Spectacular pocketed orange face guarded by a damn hard chimney and bulge down low. Apparently a hold broke off in this lower section in 2017 and it is now quite desperate. Alternatively stem up the nearby tree and step onto the rock. |
23
Updraft
Info unknown. Potentially this is the bolted extension to Wildfire up the arete? |
22
★★ Vulcan
Fantastic arete that shares the first two bolts of Wildfire then breaks right. The chimney start is not grade 22 however after a hold broke in 2017. Stem up the tree or batman to first bolt. |
24
★ Vulcan Extension
Continue up past the anchors to a short tricky crux. |
19
★ Soo
The left of the two routes on the wall left of Windy Row. Stick-clip bolt out left of Windy Row's corner (or place trad) and layback up crack for a couple of metres to start. |
19
★ Sweep
The sport route up grey face just left of Windy's corner. |
16
★★★ Windy Row
Mega corner crack that would have to be one of the best 16's in the Blue Mountains. Worth lugging a rack here just for this route. There is a convenient lower-off at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch seems very vegetated and unclimbed. |
Devondale
A large weatherproof overhang covered in chalky holds. A lot of traversing and a few hard, steep problems. Good for training but not that inspiring. The approach track and cave is located on private property as part of the 12 Belgravia Street estate. Access could be removed at any time - do not leave rubbish, mattresses or light fires. if approached by the owners please be respectful. Any problems contact ACANSW. |
Devondale |
V4
★★ The Traverse
Right to left staying below the choss ledge at the end. A good pumper - grade 25? |
26
The traverse extension
As per 'The traverse' continue climbing left last 3mtrs on crimps and bad feet |
26
The traverse reverse
Climb as per 'The traverse' right to left ending at arete flat jug then reverse the whole thing without coming off |
V6
★★ Bengal double dip
Start matched on rail under roof. Use the cool undercling pinch thing. |
V6
★★ I'm a fucking baby
Start matched on a corner block just left of the blunt arete and move up through some compression crimps. |
V5
★ Dude no stresssss
Start in scoop on the blunt arete. Use the undercling to do some tings. |
V5
★ V5G
Start on good holds, through undercling and big move to edges. Powerful. |
V4
★★ Half Hour Haircut
Very low start on opposing good sidepulls with feet on back wall. Move up and right through the amazing pinch, then straight up and finish on ledge. Much easier for the tall. |
V3
★★ Just chips thanks
Start on flat jug 3 meters right of HHH and climb straight up. |
25
★★ The Second Wave
Link Half Hour Haircut into the reversed traverse. Pumpy start leads to easier finish. Giving this a boulder grade doesn't seem useful, but no harder than V4 |
There are two short, easy sport routes on a wall to the north of the main overhang (to the left faci
There are two short, easy sport routes on a wall to the north of the main overhang (to the left facing the overhang). There is an easy Trad finger-crack route around corner past cave |
Unknown A
Orange slabby face just right of corner. First ascent info unknown. Looks under grade 20. |
Unknown B
5m left of Unknown A. Juggy face. First ascent info unknown. If it was at the Sunbath it would be permachalked. |
Unknown
Incorrect route in process of being deleted (I am the author). Trying to work out merging because delete option unavailable |
Fraggle Pleasures
Directly around corner from boulder cave (in direction of Sunbath), or reach top by walking over cave and facing across valley. Surely would have been climbed previously, considering location. Lower finger crack a one or two move wonder comparable to Hope (Piddington) but softer rock. Followed by unprotected slab and poorly protected face |
The Sunbath
An area of short bolted walls that face west and south providing some all-day shade options. This is a very popular area for beginner climbers. Please make an effort to treat this area with respect - take your rubbish home, don't crap in the bush and park near the train line - not at the end of the street. |
The Sunbath |
Just around the corner from Manana is this sandy cave. A lot of the rock here is of questionable qua
Just around the corner from Manana is this sandy cave. A lot of the rock here is of questionable quality. Take care with anyone standing below. Climbs described left to right. |
22
★ Wok Hay
The approach track and Devondale bouldering is located on private property (not owned by the Hydro Majestoc Hotel). This property changed hands in 2018 for a cool $1.9 million, but the new landowners appear to still allow public access. It is very important that this property is treated with utmost respect - and if you are approached by the owners then please be courteous. If they have concerns please get them to contact ACANSW. Blue Mountains City Council is the land manager for The Block, Katoomba Bros, Sandpit, Valley Farm & Sooty Crag. Access to all these areas is via the private land mentioned above. The mega lux Hydro Majestic Hotel owns private land that includes the Sunbath Wall, Reservoir Dogs, Sporting Complex, The Underworld & Pole 28. Access to to these private land crags is NOT guaranteed and could be closed at any time. |
19
★★ Poultry in Motion
The approach track and Devondale bouldering is located on private property (not owned by the Hydro Majestoc Hotel). This property changed hands in 2018 for a cool $1.9 million, but the new landowners appear to still allow public access. It is very important that this property is treated with utmost respect - and if you are approached by the owners then please be courteous. If they have concerns please get them to contact ACANSW. Blue Mountains City Council is the land manager for The Block, Katoomba Bros, Sandpit, Valley Farm & Sooty Crag. Access to all these areas is via the private land mentioned above. The mega lux Hydro Majestic Hotel owns private land that includes the Sunbath Wall, Reservoir Dogs, Sporting Complex, The Underworld & Pole 28. Access to to these private land crags is NOT guaranteed and could be closed at any time. |
19
★ Unknown 1
Start: As for PiM first two hangerless carrot bolts then head further right on FHs. Looks like its about 19/20. |
20
Unknown 2
Start: In between PiM and Viper at chossy white rock. Up through this (FH) and finish up wall on RBs. Take care - much loose rock on this in the first half. |
21
★★ Viper
Follow a couple of carrots on the right hand face, then up through the increasing steepness. Anchor located over a ledge above the climb. |
18
★★ Loki
Mixed route - bring cams. |
13
★ Hootenanny
Major corner crack |
Kaboomba Brothers area |
14
★★ Mañana
Classic easy sport route - bring the bolt plates for this. Start 40m left of Katoomba Bros at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof. Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting! |
12
★★ Until Death Do Us Part
2 metres right of Mañana. Long, easy, and popular. |
15
★ Pasado Mañana
A single bolt extension to Mañana or Until Death Do Us Part that climbs thru the small roof to another anchor. The rock looks questionable but appears to have had a lot of traffic already. The bolt is a glue-in with fixed hanger so no additional bolt plate needed. The tri point anchor is set back on top behind the lip in better rock, from two U bolts plus a carrot, with high quality stainless chain hanging over the edge to a master point. Use an extra long draw or sling to extend from the Mañana/DDUP anchor under the roof, or gain a lesson in friction and rope wear. |
13
★ Chadmeister
Walk ten metres up the gully and begin on the obvious ledge. Climb leftmost crack to cave, then up central pillar of the cave and the wall above to a runout mantle top-out. 3BB over the top, well to the right. |
10
Chossmaster
Start as for Chadmeister. Climb the easy diagonal crack trending climber's right to below the edge of the cave, then up the face to 3BB over top. |
19
★★ Burger Boys
Up the middle of the yellow and grey face to the right of the gully and 5 metres left of Kedumba Sisters. |
13
★ Unknown 3
Short, easy slab a few metres left of Kedumba Sisters. 4 ring bolts swing around towards arete then back right to 2 RB lower-off. Unknown setter and first ascensionist. Suggested name: Megalong Goodhas ('children' in Gundungurra) |
11
★ Kedumba Sisters
Start left of Kaboomba Brothers. Bouldery start to pleasant rambling. Lots of bolts. Stick clip the 2nd bolt if you’re at the grade. |
4
★ Kaboomba Brothers
4 carrots up the slab (take brackets). The first move is tricky for those at the grade. Anchor consists of a solid single D-shackle off a chain. |
18
★ Spook Eyes
Line of ring bolts up hanging slab. Apparently the crack 1m to the right is off route. Start: 2m right (facing in) of 'Kaboomba Brothers'. |
19
★ Spook Eyes (Direct)
Go up orange streak, face moves only, no use of crack or arête. Fairly contrived, but a nice sequence of moves. |
13
★ Between the Lines
Corner between 'Radioactive Man' and 'Spook Eyes'. Well protected crack with some very nice climbing at the grade. Careful of loose rock. Up to either rings for lower off (shared anchor with 'Spook Eyes') or 2 bolts on ledge for comfortable top belay. First climbed in 2001 by Colin of Katoomba adventures and named Gardeners Crack but evidently not reported to the guide book editors. |
20
★★ Radioactive Man
Nice steep route with an exciting finish. The anchors are over the ledge. |
25
★★ Atoms in Action
Short intense bouldery little number. Bit of a one-move-wonder ... |
23
★★ The Incredible Hulk
To the right of Atoms in Action. Up the arete. Starts on the left of the arete. Don’t stray too far right for full value. |
20
★ Moss Monster
Start in back of cave then fight/thrutch to rest ledge. Cruise to top, tree belay. This route was first climbed by Tom Chaffey, four days later Nathaniel and Mitch climbed it believing it was a first ascent. After being passed by for years its amazing that it got this much attention in one week. The 2nd ascentionists gave it a harder grade than Tom. Perhaps its a sandbag? Find out for yourself. |
16
★ Unknown 4
Bouldery, fun overhanging start to easy but brittle jugs above. Stick clip first bolt. 5 ring bolts diagonal toward 2RB lower-off. Unknown setter and first ascensionist. 'TH' chalked beneath route. Suggested name: 'Friendly Fallout' (linked to 'Atoms in Action' area) |
The Block/Pitang Wall |
13
★ Captain Pugwash
Good beginner's climb. Down the path below GBTS then up to the right. |
10
★ Three Sheets to the Wind
Another worthwhile easy climb that adds to the range of options for beginner leaders at this crag. 5 bolts to a DBB |
9
★ Roger the Cabin Boy
One of the easiest sport climbs in the Blue Mountains. Good one for the kiddies. |
11
★ Go Back To Switzerland
On the left side of the arete. Plenty of bolts. Plenty of jugs. Good beginner lead climb. |
17
★ I Only Eat Plankton
The leftmost route on the wall. Follow the U bolts left toward the arete and then back slightly right to the anchors. |
15
★ Pitang Pitang
Right of IOEP. Shared start with Ole Biscuit Barrel, then follow the bolts left to the low anchors. |
14
★ Ole Biscuit Barrel
Shared start with Pitang Pitang. Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles. Likely to be stiff for the grade. |
17
★ Cardinal Fang
Straight up the face, crossing OBB and sharing one of its bolts, to chain/ring lower off. 5 BR's in total. Start: Start 2m right of OBB. |
20
★★ Strange Karma
If you are tall this will feel like an 18 |
22
One's Enough, Two's Too Many
Start as for GFL, then left to big move off small holds |
23
★ Gas, Food, Lodging
Central worn orange streak. Easy start up small left facing corner to blank finish. A hold has broken off this move so undercling the break and dyno away! After the dyno keep chugging straight up past a hidden bolt on a ledge to a chain at the top of the cliff. |
18
★★ Old Salt
Fun climb with nice moves, I've seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the lower-offs - don't let the rope go behind your legs! |
17
★ Mainly Fine
The right arete of the wall starting 2m right of Old Salt. Was originally climbed starting at Old Salt and traversing right across the wall (by Tim Davenport circa 2000). The direct start up the arete was added in 2017. |
Schwing Wall |
13
★ Rum-Doodle
Corner left end of the wall. Up crack then across to anchors (shared with It Goes!) |
22
★★ It Goes!
Use bolt plates for face (and optional gear in crack) then bulge well protected with ring bolts |
18
★★ Schwing
Both pitches can be combined - bring a lot of bolt plates!
|
19
★ Empty Chairs
Up, staying right of S, after second RB up and traverse to third. 3 RBs to DRB lower off. |
22
★★ Just Boot It
Start: Around to the right of Schwing. |
13
The Lottery of Latitude
Start: Right (facing in) around the corner from Schwing, 7m past Just Boot It. Belay ring at head height, at the start of the low roof. Careful of eroded track. Clip into the belay bolt! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece. |
19
★★ Gimme Shelter
10m right (facing in) of Just Boot It. Up light-coloured chossy face, go right around roof, then up and left. Two pitches, or climb as one, lower to halfway anchor, then rap from that. Use belay ring from Lottery of Latitude to traverse eroded track. |
16
Gimme Shelter (P2 only)
Can be accessed via The Lottery of Latitude instead of GS P1. |
Valley Farm
The cliffline that runs underneath 'The Sunbath' area, away from the Coliseum and towards 'Sooty Crag'. An old neglected area with only a few newer climbs. Inspect all ancient (1965) pitons and bolts before launching into an adventure with a potentially insecure ending. Old climbs are difficult to identify from lack of marking and obscure descriptions. |
Valley Farm |
The following climbs start on the halfway ledge at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the v
The following climbs start on the halfway ledge at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent. |
15
★ The Big Easy
Starts off the far left end of the ledge which is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent. |
19
★ Virgins with Rifles
Starts halfway out the ledge that is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent. |
The following climbs start at the bottom of the cliff. Look for remnants of stone walls and cuttings
The following climbs start at the bottom of the cliff. Look for remnants of stone walls and cuttings on this wider part of the old track that provided access to the Valley Farm. |
8
All Sorts
"Not good" (Owens) Start 30m left of stairs in small corner.
|
19
★ Bus Stop Boxer
5m left of All Sorts. Finishes on ledge at 3 carrot belay of 'Virgins with Rifles'. You will need minimum 4 bolt plates. |
V1
Bondi
Round the corner from 'Bus Stop Boxer'. Start in the right corner under the overhang. Climb up through the crack, and out the top. |
V1
Amputee
To the left of 'Bondi'. Start standing on the rock under the overhang. Quite a lack of feet at the start of the climb (hence the name). Possible start from the ground, but might be very hard. Climb out the top. |
11
Centaur
Start: In corner 33m left of All Sorts.
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12
Anonymous
Start 10m left of Centaur.
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Wide gully and watercourse here.
Wide gully and watercourse here. |
8
Wavy Chimney
Start: In chimney 50m up right wall of big gully which is 73m left of Anonymous.
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9
Fruitless
Start: 8m left of gully
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9 M2
Trog
Start: In chimney/corner 30m left of Fruitless.
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15
★ Resurrection Day
Start below left leaning ferny crack about 25m right of Rubber Soul. Trend right up line of least resistance via grey slabs and slight crack to small tea tree below final short corner. Spaced slings, stoppers in notches and cams in breaks for the bold leader. |
15 M1
Rubber Soul
Start: 5m right of Revolver.
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14
Revolver
Start: 50m left of Trog.
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15 M0
Hard Days Night
Start: 20m left of Rubber Soul
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21
★ Running Gun Blues
The wall left of Hard Day's Night. Straight up the wall to reach L into a wide crack. Up onto small ledge then follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff. |
25
★★ Frankenstein
Just left of Running Gun Blues is this overhung orange wall with prominent flake feature in the middle. The line was bolted some time in the '80/90s with bash-in carrots and hangerless expansion bolts but didn't appear to have been climbed (lots of loose rock). It has now been cleaned, rebolted and brought back to life. Crux can be done two ways - the left version is easier but more spicy. |