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Description:© (mjw)

Traverse out right from ledge following FHs to belay. Then up the arete to chain belay at top.

  1. 15m (21) Step R and up off the ledge, then follow the traverse line 5m R to near the arete. Up face on jugs, then step R to finish on the arete. 'Rusty' bolts and dodgy rock.

  2. 20m (21) Follow the FHs up and R to chain belay on top.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

  • First Ascent: G. Child & M. Taylor, 1993

Location:  

Located in The Sporting Complex approx:
Long/Lat: 150.277013,-33.675718

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Principal
21 ** ** ACA Route Register
21(S) *** Blue Mountains Climbing
21(S) *** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 66%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux beautiful fun cool nice fantastic good great exciting superb awesome scary chossy dodgy roof jugs traverse

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