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Description:

Stunning steep face climbing, but rather committing.

Starts on the cliffline directly below where the access track to pole 28 splits (to either the left, or right side). Walk 30m downhill to the obvious rocky buttress.

Find the rap anchors on the rock buttress, rap down 5m to the belay at the top of the pitch. Re-direct the rap rope, and abseil down the "groove" in the direction of Reservoir Dogs/The Block, straight down the gray slab on the LEFT side of the arete (looking out), 30m to the belay on the triangular ledge.

Climb up from the ledge, move left along the break and out through the roof. Clip the bolt past the lip of the roof, and commit to the intimidating crux, with sustained hard moves throughout the runout straight up the wall (avoid straying off right on moss and friable rock) until the next bolt. Up vague seam on good rock (avoid moss out right) to rest. Dyno off ledge, and straight up the guts of the turret-headwall on spaced bolts, with sustained thin and technical climbing all the way to the belay.

Bring up Second, then scramble back up the initial 5m rap (consider roping up, or backing-up the scramble off the abseil rope).

If you are unable to complete the pitch, either Jumaar up the abseil rope, or you can rap again (35m) from the belay on the ledge to the ground, and find the exit gully by following the cliffline around to the left (looking out) as for the Three Brothers area.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags:

Route History:

Location:  

Located in Pole 28 approx:
Lat/Long: -33.678973,150.276269

Route Grade Citations

25 R Community registered grade
25 R ***Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 83%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained hard stoked fantastic super great exciting cool awesome fall runout committing steep short easy roof lip

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