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Summary

One of the best sections of cliff in the whole of NSW for grade 17-23 classics.

© (mjw)

Description

Gully to the right of 'Fantastic Voyage'. Includes certain iron work and chips. From the top down to the ledge utilising 'engineering' to ledge, then left to main gully and chain. The first few climb are located within the gully.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Cosmic County

Due to changes in land ownership, some unnecessary angst created by climbers and the recent bush fires, the access situation to the Freezer, Cosmic County etc has now completely changed. The road down through the Buddist’s Monk’s Retreat must NOT be used under any circumstances. It is very important that climbers use the NEW access track (it skirts around to the eastern side of the Monks Retreat). Refer to Simon Carter's wesbite for new access details: http://www.onsight.com.au/bluemtns/

Approach

Best approach is to follow the clifftop track from the old campground above the 39 Steps area then descend down the chains, left around the halfway ledge for 50m, and down the main gully to emerge at the base of Walking Wounded. Generally this descent can be done with packs on without roping up but it does require a little care. An alternative approach is down the first gully as for the Railway Cliff and Greenhouse Gully and then along the base below the 39 Steps sector, but this track is less well formed and can be slippery or boggy.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Choosy top wall of Memory Lane! 6m right of 'Fantastic Voyage' finish.

FA: G.Weigand & G.Clark, 1981

Start: 14m up and right of S&D. Near the top of the gully.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

Veer right and up.

Start: 3m right again.

FA: G.Weigand, 1981

Up and rightwards to arete, up arete then left across wall, up and right on flakes to arete and up to tree. 2). Take lefthand line to the top - getting into and out of the cave is interesting.

Start: On the right side of 'Memory Lane'. 15m diagonally right and up from FV.

FA: 1).J.Smoothy, M.Johnston 2).G.Bradbury & A.Penney, 1980

A classic crack corner grovel.

Start: Obvious crack corner 5m right of NB&P.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Robertson, 1980

Not what it once was. Partially rebolted. Rings and things.

Start: 2m right again. Scooped wall. Take #3 Friend.

FA: A.Penney & G.Bradbury, 1981

Flake to roof, over this to ledge, up then right of arete. Finish up TEMH.

Start: 5m right of WW.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Weigand, 1982

Wall to roof then up.

Start: As for SoF.

FA: G.Bradbury, W.Paton & J.Smoothy, 1991

Start: The arete right of CD. Many people traverse in from the left. 4 carrots plus gear.

FA: Andrew Penney

FA: A.Penney, 1980

Take large cams.

Start: 2m right of TEMH.

FA: A.Penney & C.Sloss, 1987

Take large cams.

Start: 3m right again.

FA: A.Penney & M.Grey, 1981

Up corner to top of block, short crack to tree.

Start: Left corner of Bernutts Block.

FA: A.Penney, 1980

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.penney, 1987

Start: Left arete of the block.

FA: A.Prehn, R.Young, M.Burton & A.Penney, 1980

Scramble to ledge. Up outside of the block to top.

Start: On ledge 7m diagonally right of SM.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Weigand, 1981

Wall and right side of arete.

Start: Left hand route on the wall.

FA: A.Penney & C.Sloss, 1987

Start: 2m right.

FA: P.Martland & A.Dunn, 1981

Start: Right again.

FA: A.Penney & C.Sloss, 1987

Up corner to top of block, crack to tree.

Start: The corner.

FA: T.Bernutt & J.Smoothy, 1979

Start: Just right of AP.

FA: A.Penney & C.Sloss, 1987

Right a bit then up wall to hairline crack, up this to top.

Start: As for DD.

FA: W.Moon, F.Moon & B.Cameron, 1981

Start: About halfway down the ramp. Hard start then stella edge climbing with a big reach down low, keep on pushing hard moves and descent recovery holds. Fixed Hangers. Single ring lower off.

FA: G.Wegand & M.Grey, 1982

The first route at The County (16/6/79). Very popular.

Start: Obvious crack. New lower-off from shackle on tree at top.

FA: J.Smoothy & T.Bernutt, 1979

Take double sets of cams.

Start: As for IS31 then right and up wall.

FA: G.Weigand, 1981

Start: 5m right of IS31.

FA: M.Stacey, 1987

"The first ascentionist deviated from the crack to the arete at one point on what is now considered to be the crux"

Start: 5m right of IS31, below crack.

FA: W.Baird, 1979

As for BE then through roof, up nose and right side of the arete to ledge.

Start: As for BE.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1988

Start: 2m right of BE.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1988

Up wall past tree and large ledge, trend left to arete and finish.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: D.Wagland & G.Roberson, 1979

Corner to roof, wall via crack to ledge (big cam!), seam to top.

Start: 5m right.

FA: S.Knight, G.Weigand, G.Robertson & M.Law, 1982

Thin corner, slight bulge the right up to left leading ramp, up this to finish as for HCMT.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: K.Westren, L.Blackmore & J.How, 1982

Scramble to ledge below corner, corner past big ledge, move left at top. Take Care!

Start: Corner 7m right again.

FA: H.Luxford, K.Westren & B.Ratter, 1981

"An Eye catching line starting near the top of the cliff...strenuous and sustained but well protected."

Start: Obvious right leading crack that starts from the ledge that runs left from from the 2nd pitch of 'Touco (The Ugly)'. Best way to reach the route is to walk up 'Memory Lane' to 'Smoothy's Shelf' right along the ledge to its end. Rope up! and traverse to the

FA: A.Penney & G.Robertson, 1980

As for P, right to bolt, up and past breaks. move left at top break and up to yellow ledge. off left.

Start: As for 'Phoenix'.

FA: G.Bradbury & A.Penney, 1980

"A direct route up 'Ragtime' Wall which is apparently a lot easier than it looks... An onsight lead would probably be a serious undertaking."

Start: The right side of the block 13m right of WE.

FA: W.Baird & M.Moore, 1980

Popular. Brilliant climbing.

Start: As for R. To ledge, clip rb then unclip after first bolt on face is clipped to avoid rope drag. traverse right and straight up between R and R!. 1 RB,10 bolts and 2.5 & 3 Friends plus DRB anchor. Now has an extra pitch at 17 which can be done in one long pitch , requires 4 more boltplates and a small cam. DRB lower off @ 49 mtrs. Rebolted 2015

FA: A.Penney & M.Moore, 1980

As for R to obvious traverse line right to ledge, follow line of least resistance up the wal - Take Care! - to ledge 2). Corner as for Touco. Has a DS about 10m right through the roof at 24.

Start: As for 'Reprieve'.

FA: W.Baird & P.Weber, 1980

Up, left around roof then right of arete.

Start: 6m right. Overhang on right side of cave.

FA: G.James & G.Brickle, 1987

As for AE but step left, up orange wall to belay.

Start: As for AE.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

Up and slight right ,crossing QD at about 3/4 height, to chain on left.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.Penney & C-J.Jagusch, 1988

Not as easy as it appears.

Start: Wall 4m right of Blondie.

FA: P.Webber & M.Moore, 1980

No doubt it has...

Start: 5m right of QD. Corner and filth to ledge

FA: P.Webber, 1981

"Steep gully bashing"

Start: Gully/corner 10m right of QD.

FA: G.Winder & S.Knight, 1980

Slab then right to bolt, up right (fixed hanger) then left to small ledge, right under roof, corner to ledge. 2). Walk right and traverse off.

Start: 1m right of JG.

FA: S.Knight, 1981

Pockets to bolt, diagonally left, up to break, traverse right, mantle to slab and up.

Start: 7m right again.

FA: G.Wegand & G.Clark, 1983

Corner to roof,left under this and up yellow groove to end of corner, right to ledge. 2). Around left arete, up to ledge. 3). Right and finish as for CC.

Start: 4m right.

FA: P.Hoskins & S.Knight, 1981

  1. To ledge, left and up corner to ledge.

  2. Corner to ledge, choss to bush (?)

  3. Walk right and down to footledge and off.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: A.Penney, H.Jacob & G.Martland, 1981

Up wall and seam - check out the mower blade carefully - left at last bolt and belay on ledge. Finish as for CC.

Start: In small gully 4m right of CC.

FA: P.Webber & G.Weigand, 1981

Left facing corner and crack.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: H.Luxford & K.Westren, 1981

Start: At ground level 2m right of CC.

FA: K.Westren, H.Luxford & K.Seddon, 1981

Chimney and crack to ledge then left crack.

Start: 3m right of LB.

FA: H.Luxford & K.Westren, 1981

"This desperate line is somewhat easier than it would first appear." This is the striking splitter crack in the upper part of this wall. Take doubles of #0.5-1 cams. Originally approached via Jitterbug, but its much better to start up TZ Direct and do it all as a single pitch. Walk 10m R to abseil off the Highlites anchor, or keep walking R to the descent gully.

FA: M.Law & J.Stone, 1979

Wall and crack to ledge then right crack.

Start: 2m right of TZ.

FA: H.Luxford & K.Westren, 1981

Arete to TZ anchor 1. Start: 9m right and up hill of H.

FA: G.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1981

The best way to approach TZ. Start at the steep orange corner 2m right of CBX. Up to join TZ at ledge. Take doubles of #2-3 cams. Some loose blocks but they're easily avoided.

FA: H.Luxford & K.Westren, 1981

Start 4m R of TZ DS. No 10 meter stick required anymore. Rebolted 08/2015. Fantastic climbing. RBs and small/med cams with slings, to DRB belay at the back of the ledge. Abseil, or walk off R to gully beside Camerons Crest.

FA: G.Weigand & G.Robertson, 1982

Excellent, and now with more bolts since the flake at the top broke. Start a few m R of H. Re-bolted 07/2015. Up past 2 BRs to FH, up past break to flake then BR, crux, and two more BRs to top. Stainless Glue ins. Bring 6 bolt plates, small wires and camalots #1 and smaller. Belay from DRB at back of ledge. Abseil, or walk off R to gully.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

Hard! Old bolts don't look very good. Start: 2m right of MD.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Left of paint. Corner to ledge, crack to tree and ledge, arete on the left. Start 2m R of LC.

FA: G.Weigand & S.Knight, 1981

Corner, crack to ledge and tree then corner. Start as for HF.

FA: J.Smoothy & T.Bernutt, 1979

As for PA then bolts on right wall. Start up to tree as for PA.

FA: S.Knight & G.Weigand, 1981

Arete, hand traverse right along ramp, up. Start: 10m right and uphill from PA. 14m up Cameron's Crest and start on left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

Up corner and chimney, past block carefully, right onto face and up to bushy ledge. 2). Bash through bush to corner then line to the left up through the hole in the roof. Start: As for T.

FA: G.Moore & G.Winder, 1980

Rehearsed 'extensively' on abseil. Crux protection is a #4 RP. Start: On wall 16m right of 'Ragtime'. 2m right of PS.

FA: W.Baird & P.Webber, 1980

Up to obvious traverse line, left along it to arete and up. Start: 1m right of AE. Wide crack/chimney.

FA: A.Penney & G.Robertson, 1980

Activity

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