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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Heading West through Mt Victoria, turn Left into Grandview Pde. Park near top of hill near Beaufort Ave. Walk down to gate. Follow signs "Sunset Rock, Walkers Only" heading Left to Sunset Rock (first rocky outcrop). Continue Right through bush down to descent Chimney.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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Grade Route

Start at left edge of short orange wall. Traverse in from Left to black streak, then up past 2 bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy & M. Stacey, 1987

Diagonal crack just Left of descent Chimney. Climb to crack, then to horizontal break. Traverse left to arete, and then up (2 bolts on left side). DBB at top.

FFA: J. Smoothy & M. Stacey, 1987

1m Right of Vitae. Climb crack then steep wall past 3 bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy & M. Stacey, 1987

Climb the Right arete of the orange wall past 2 bolts to BB at top.

FFA: L. Trihey & J. Smoothy, 1987

Right of Time, Life, Books on Left arete of the small buttress. Hard start, then climb right side of the arete to the top past 2 bolts. Bring wires and medium cams.

FFA: L. McManus & F. Lumsden, 1988

2m right of Toot Beep. Climb up to break, then up past 1 bolt. The tree is reportedly "off route". Bring a medium cam for break.

FFA: F. Lumsden & L. McManus, 1988

Start at arete Right of Steve Steps Out. Behind tree to break, then up ramps on arete. Bring a large cam for break.

FFA: F. Lumsden & L. McManus, 1988


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