Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Heading West through Mt Victoria, turn Left into Grandview Pde. Park near top of hill near Beaufort Ave. Walk down to gate. Follow signs "Sunset Rock, Walkers Only" heading Left to Sunset Rock (first rocky outcrop). Continue Right through bush down to descent Chimney.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Temporis Sport 12m

Start at left edge of short orange wall. Traverse in from Left to black streak, then up past 2 bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

2
19 * Vitae Sport 18m

Diagonal crack just Left of descent Chimney. Climb to crack, then to horizontal break. Traverse left to arete, and then up (2 bolts on left side). DBB at top.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

3
23 * Librae Sport 12m

1m Right of Vitae. Climb crack then steep wall past 3 bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

4
21 Time, Life, Books Sport 12m

Climb the Right arete of the orange wall past 2 bolts to BB at top.

FFA: L. Trihey, J. Smoothy, 1987

5
14 Toot Beep Trad 10m

Right of Time, Life, Books on Left arete of the small buttress. Hard start, then climb right side of the arete to the top past 2 bolts. Bring wires and medium cams.

FFA: L. McManus, F. Lumsden, 1988

6
20 Stevo Steps Out Trad 10m

2m right of Toot Beep. Climb up to break, then up past 1 bolt. The tree is reportedly "off route". Bring a medium cam for break.

FFA: F. Lumsden, L. McManus, 1988

7
10 Skeezer Trad 10m

Start at arete Right of Steve Steps Out. Behind tree to break, then up ramps on arete. Bring a large cam for break.

FFA: F. Lumsden, L. McManus, 1988