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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Heading West through Mt Victoria, turn Left onto Grandview Pde. Head down and Right into Victoria St, then on for 400m to isolated cottage where road curves Right. Park here, and walk downhill through bush on Right towards back of cottage, then down and Left under rooves into Gully. Walk Right of Water Tank to start of cliff.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.



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Start near Right corner system. Past 3 bolts to ledge, then up faint line past more bolts to top. Bring large cams for upper section.

FFA: J. Smoothy & M. Stacey, 1986

Start at black streak 3m left of I'm a Braddlefish. Up past 3 bolts to crux, then to break. Up through roof and steep wall past 3 more bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, 1986

4m Left of The Black Streak. Up past 2 bolts and range of gear to ledge. Left off ledge and through roof, then up past flakes to top via 7 bolts.

FFA: L. McManus & J. Smoothy, 1986

2m Left of To Know a Thief.

P1 (20m) - Up past Bolt to ledge and BB.

P2 (10m) - Up through roof and wall, then left and up to top.

FFA: M. Stacey, L. McManus & J. Smoothy, 1986

start on low ledge, easy climbing to middle ledge passing 1 bolt, through overlap & follow rings up face above to double bolt anchor.

FA: Lucky Chance, 9 Jun 2013


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