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Table of contents

1. Mitchells Ridge 85 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.236038, -33.584791

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

1.1. Sunset Rock 7 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.244793, -33.589137


Heading West through Mt Victoria, turn Left into Grandview Pde. Park near top of hill near Beaufort Ave. Walk down to gate. Follow signs "Sunset Rock, Walkers Only" heading Left to Sunset Rock (first rocky outcrop). Continue Right through bush down to descent Chimney.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Temporis

Start at left edge of short orange wall. Traverse in from Left to black streak, then up past 2 bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

20 Sport 12m
2 * Vitae

Diagonal crack just Left of descent Chimney. Climb to crack, then to horizontal break. Traverse left to arete, and then up (2 bolts on left side). DBB at top.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

19 Sport 18m
3 * Librae

1m Right of Vitae. Climb crack then steep wall past 3 bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1987

23 Sport 12m
4 Time, Life, Books

Climb the Right arete of the orange wall past 2 bolts to BB at top.

FFA: L. Trihey, J. Smoothy, 1987

21 Sport 12m
5 Toot Beep

Right of Time, Life, Books on Left arete of the small buttress. Hard start, then climb right side of the arete to the top past 2 bolts. Bring wires and medium cams.

FFA: L. McManus, F. Lumsden, 1988

14 Trad 10m
6 Stevo Steps Out

2m right of Toot Beep. Climb up to break, then up past 1 bolt. The tree is reportedly "off route". Bring a medium cam for break.

FFA: F. Lumsden, L. McManus, 1988

20 Trad 10m
7 Skeezer

Start at arete Right of Steve Steps Out. Behind tree to break, then up ramps on arete. Bring a large cam for break.

FFA: F. Lumsden, L. McManus, 1988

10 Trad 10m

1.2. Braddlefish Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.244412, -33.587516


Heading West through Mt Victoria, turn Left onto Grandview Pde. Head down and Right into Victoria St, then on for 400m to isolated cottage where road curves Right. Park here, and walk downhill through bush on Right towards back of cottage, then down and Left under rooves into Gully. Walk Right of Water Tank to start of cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** I'm a Braddlefish

Start near Right corner system. Past 3 bolts to ledge, then up faint line past more bolts to top. Bring large cams for upper section.

FFA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey, 1986

23 Trad 30m
2 ** The Black Streak

Start at black streak 3m left of I'm a Braddlefish. Up past 3 bolts to crux, then to break. Up through roof and steep wall past 3 more bolts.

FFA: J. Smoothy, 1986

25 Sport 30m
3 To Know A Thief

4m Left of The Black Streak. Up past 2 bolts and range of gear to ledge. Left off ledge and through roof, then up past flakes to top via 7 bolts.

FFA: L. McManus, J. Smoothy, 1986

22 Trad 30m
4 It Takes A Thief

2m Left of To Know a Thief.

P1 (20m) - Up past Bolt to ledge and BB.

P2 (10m) - Up through roof and wall, then left and up to top.

FFA: M. Stacey, L. McManus, J. Smoothy, 1986

22 Trad 30m 2
5 *** Dream of tears

start on low ledge, easy climbing to middle ledge passing 1 bolt, through overlap & follow rings up face above to double bolt anchor.

FA: Lucky Chance, 2013

22 Sport 13m, 5

1.3. Loft Chimney Area 18 routes in Cliff

Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.243087, -33.586109

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Billy Blogs

Accessed by Abseil. Start 25m Right of top of John Arthur Ray (looking out). Rap 40m from BB and tree to chain and small gear belay. Up past bolt and gear to stance below arete. Thin moves to roof, then steep moves on good holds to bulge. Through bulge then up and left on slab to another bulge, then top past 11 bolts. Bring a mixed rack of cams.

FA: Wilson, Clark, Kurko, 1994

23 M0 Trad 40m
2 John Arthur Ray

50m left of Apostle of Ahisma at Right end of buttress.

P1 (25m - 26) - Traverse left to arete and up past 3 bolts and wires to DBB.

P2 (27m - 21) - Slab past 3 bolts, then right of arete and up to top past nuts and more bolts.

FFA: Bradbury, 1986

FA: Bradbury, Smoothy, 1986

26 Trad 52m
3 * Dead Man's Pyjamas 24 Unknown 52m
4 Apostle of Ahisma 19 Unknown 52m
5 Slingshot 14 M1 Aid 25m
6 Hidden Crack 10 Unknown 15m
7 Phalanx 23 Unknown 35m
8 Phalanx Variant 16 Unknown 15m
9 Pirouette 19 Unknown 35m
10 Gun Town Marshall 21 Unknown 25m
11 Living Behind the Moon 15 Unknown 30m

1.3.1. The Boulevard 7 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rasta

FA: E.J, 2004

27 Sport 8m
2 Tom Thumb

Take gear!

FA: H.Luxford, T.Tierney, 1968

17 Trad 15m
3 * Too Legit to Quit

FA: B.Littleford, 2004

29 Sport 18m
4 * Paradise Lost

FA: B.Littleford, 2004

29 Sport 18m
5 Unclimbed, wet corner crack/chimney. Sport
6 Project

FA: Mel, 2000

7 * That’s Life

FA: M.Shields, 2004

25 Sport 20m

1.4. Town Tip Gully 3 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.240116, -33.583893


When entering Mitchell's Ridge picnic area, park near steel railing on Left before turnoff, and walk through gap in rail 15m to clifftop. Head down gully on the left, and down to base of cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 One Down

Start at short, dirty crack on grey rock, approximately 40m Right of Town Tip Gully. Climb crack to ledge, then climb corner to roof. Move left, and then up.

FFA: H. Luxford, D. Darmanin, 1968

15 M0 Trad 15m
2 Wanderlings

150m Right of One Down. Climb low angled vegetated corner (black slab on right) which steepens near the top.

Set by D. Fletcher, W. Davenport, 1968

13 Trad 60m
3 The Second Dimension - PROJECT LUCKY

scramble down gully to ledge at 1/3rd height, walk along to belay. 1st pitch 20m up to ledge and double ringbolt belay. 2nd pitch continues straight up to top & double rings.

Set by Lucky Chance, 2013

26 Sport Project 40m 2

1.5. Grace Gully 17 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.239493, -33.583510

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Oh! Shut up!

WARNING, top left anchor is loose!

FA: D.Geiger, 2002

20 Sport 15m
2 ** Welcome To The Borzoi

First route you come to on the main wall.

FA: M Baker, A Farquhar, 2013

25 Sport 15m, 8
3 * Slave to the Rhythm

Rebolted 2004

FA: M. Baker, J. Jobling, 1991

25 Sport 20m
4 ** Codein

25 in new guide

FA: G.Henderson, 2002

25 Sport 15m
5 * Mogambo

Rebolted 2004. 1st ring is loose, and so are the next few holds.

FA: M. Baker, W. Baird, 1991

24 Sport 18m
6 *** Grace

Rebolted 2004. If it could get more stars it would! WARNING, 1st ring is loose

Start: Start just left of the arete.

FA: J. Smoothy., 1988

26 Sport 20m
7 Project (Glen) project Unknown
8 ** Requiem for a Whippet

Requires the odd BP.

FA: A.Farquar, 1998

25 Sport 20m
9 * Will it Stay?

Before doing this be aware that 2 bolts are in a large flake of questionable permanence.

FA: M.Spring, 1999

23 Sport 15m
10 * The Jam Nazi

FA: D.Taylor, 1999

23 Sport 12m
11 Open Project project Unknown
12 ** The Missing Man

Right of vegetated corner. Fixed hangers to chain.

FA: F.Yule, 1995

25 Sport 15m
13 ** Introversion

Start: 2m right of MM.Finishes at MM chain.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

26 Sport 15m
14 * Glucosamine

Start: Stick clip ring behind the tree. Head up and left. Leavethe tree alone.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

25 Sport 15m
15 Pethadine

Start: As for 'Glucosamine', then right and up.

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

24 Sport 15m
16 Morphine

Start: 4m right of P. Jump to lip then follow bolts left of Pethadine!

FA: G.Henderson, 2000

25 Sport 15m
17 #6

Bouldery start around the arete from 'Grace'.

FA: G.Henderson, 2004

27 Sport 15m

1.6. The Quiet Place 9 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.238187, -33.582097

Description:© (secretary)

Apart from 'Showpiece' the routes in this area haven't been assessed regarding the fixed protection or their value.

Approach:© (secretary)

The area above the GW Hwy. Hence the name. 'Access' from Mitchell's Ridge 'Lookout', turn left at the toilet - yes, there are toilets - and park almost immediately on the left (small clearing covered in trash). Head for the obvious 'big' tree then leftish until you can see the big boulders. Down the rock shelves to cliff top.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Snail Special 20 Trad 25m
2 Controlled Burning 23 Trad 30m
3 * Public Spectacle 20 Trad 25m
4 ** Showpiece

SSGIC's replaced 2004

FA: L. Trihey, W. King, 1987

19 Trad 30m
5 Workmates 21 Trad 40m
6 Rollover 22 Trad 30m
7 Hot Prospect 21 Trad 30m
8 ** Punks On the Pass 23 Trad 30m
9 Tarantula 14 M3 Aid 52m

1.7. Bay Tree Towers 20 routes in Crag

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.234134, -33.582045

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cream 16 Unknown 10m
2 Jam 13 Unknown 12m
3 * Scones 10 Unknown 12m
4 Ploughman's Special 9 Unknown 10m
5 Even Cargirls Get The Blues 9 Unknown 8m
6 Another Roadside Attraction 15 Unknown 15m
7 Jitterbug Exhaust Fumes 18 Unknown 13m
8 Still Life With Semi-Trailer 20 Unknown 12m
9 Loddle 14 Unknown 15m
10 ** Wall Street 17 Sport 15m
11 Nutmeg Cake 14 Unknown 15m
12 * Plastered 22 Unknown 22m
13 ** Whingeing Dogs 24 Unknown 20m
14 ** Double Exposure 17 Unknown 20m
15 Seven Fingered Fun 22 Unknown 20m
16 * The Crack 19 Unknown 18m
17 Kamikaze 20 Unknown 15m
18 Metacarpal 17 Unknown 30m
19 You Are Passing Another Fox 16 Unknown 30m
20 Mendoza

Flake 4m L of Loddle, then R diagonal crack

Set by Ian Sinden, Jeff Boyton

FA: 1989

16 Trad 25m

1.8. Safety Ramp 2 routes in Crag

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Where Ego's Dare 23 Sport 25m
2 ** Crazy Rooter 23 Sport 25m

1.9. Eastern Block 4 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (Lee)

This is an interesting little area originally developed by Chris Jones who put up the classic 'Hari Kari' in 1999. It was rediscovered 5 years later by Lee Cossey who immediatly saw the line that came to be 'Cirque de Soleil'. All the routes here share the same style of climbing that being entirly traditionaly protected. There is room for a few more routes, some have already been attempted ground-up and are cosidered established trad projects, all are obviously open. Before bolting new lines here consider whether it may have already been traditionally concieved.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Unknown

This was apparently climbed by Chris Jones in 1999. Like the other routes here it is all trad the difference being the rock is of slightly lesser quality, worthwhile all the same.

Start: Start as for 'Cirque de Soleil' but climb straight up arete all the way. It may be possible to step onto the route a little higher up.

FA: Chris Jones, 1999

23 R Trad 20m
2 ** Cirque de Soleil

Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just comitting.

Start: Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the begining of the left leading diagonal break.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2004

28 R Trad 30m
3 ** Unsigned Artist

Good Quality trad climbing. Two vary different pitch's.

Start: Abseil 45m off southern arete to the very bottom. Start in crack just left of corner.

  1. 33m (24) Climb initial corner stepping right onto arete a few meters up. Onto ledge followed by tricky moves to gain good jam and jugs. Follow jugs up and to the right. Go straight up the wall, initially using the flake to the right. Thin gear follows. Belay on obvious ledge.

  2. 12m (23) Exciting little headwall. Climb 5m off the belay to the only gear on the pitch, proceed on to and over rooflet to some slopey moves. If you are unsure of your ability it may be worth scopeing and chalking this bit on the way down.

FA: Rowan Druce, Lee Cossey. alt., 2004

24 R Trad 45m 2
4 *** Hari Kari

Classic grit style rock, climbing and protection. This has probably only seen one day of action since the first ascent, on this day however the fall from the crux was tested a few times, all walked away happy. A photograph of the FA was pulished claimimng it to be in 'Western Australia', had it been correct and described it as being in the Blue Mountains, this route would have surely seen more attention.

Start: Start part way down the steep gully. Below the obvious shallow slopey layaway. Up to break and into the layaway, yes you have to leave that good foot hold.

FA: Chris Jones, 1999

25 R Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 Even Cargirls Get The Blues Unknown 8m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
Ploughman's Special Unknown 10m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
10 Skeezer Trad 10m 1.1. Sunset Rock
Hidden Crack Unknown 15m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
* Scones Unknown 12m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
13 Wanderlings Trad 60m 1.4. Town Tip Gully
Jam Unknown 12m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
14 Toot Beep Trad 10m 1.1. Sunset Rock
Loddle Unknown 15m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
Nutmeg Cake Unknown 15m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
14 M1 Slingshot Aid 25m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
14 M3 Tarantula Aid 52m 1.6. The Quiet Place
15 Living Behind the Moon Unknown 30m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
Another Roadside Attraction Unknown 15m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
15 M0 One Down Trad 15m 1.4. Town Tip Gully
16 Phalanx Variant Unknown 15m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
* Cream Unknown 10m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
Mendoza Trad 25m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
You Are Passing Another Fox Unknown 30m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
17 Tom Thumb Trad 15m 1.3.1. The Boulevard
** Double Exposure Unknown 20m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
Metacarpal Unknown 30m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
** Wall Street Sport 15m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
18 Jitterbug Exhaust Fumes Unknown 13m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
19 * Vitae Sport 18m 1.1. Sunset Rock
Apostle of Ahisma Unknown 52m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
Pirouette Unknown 35m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
** Showpiece Trad 30m 1.6. The Quiet Place
* The Crack Unknown 18m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
20 Stevo Steps Out Trad 10m 1.1. Sunset Rock
Temporis Sport 12m 1.1. Sunset Rock
Oh! Shut up! Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
* Public Spectacle Trad 25m 1.6. The Quiet Place
* Snail Special Trad 25m 1.6. The Quiet Place
Kamikaze Unknown 15m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
Still Life With Semi-Trailer Unknown 12m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
21 Time, Life, Books Sport 12m 1.1. Sunset Rock
Gun Town Marshall Unknown 25m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
Hot Prospect Trad 30m 1.6. The Quiet Place
Workmates Trad 40m 1.6. The Quiet Place
22 *** Dream of tears Sport 13m, 5 1.2. Braddlefish Wall
It Takes A Thief Trad 30m 2 1.2. Braddlefish Wall
To Know A Thief Trad 30m 1.2. Braddlefish Wall
Rollover Trad 30m 1.6. The Quiet Place
* Plastered Unknown 22m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
Seven Fingered Fun Unknown 20m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
23 * Librae Sport 12m 1.1. Sunset Rock
** I'm a Braddlefish Trad 30m 1.2. Braddlefish Wall
Phalanx Unknown 35m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
* The Jam Nazi Sport 12m 1.5. Grace Gully
* Will it Stay? Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
Controlled Burning Trad 30m 1.6. The Quiet Place
** Punks On the Pass Trad 30m 1.6. The Quiet Place
** Crazy Rooter Sport 25m 1.8. Safety Ramp
** Where Ego's Dare Sport 25m 1.8. Safety Ramp
23 M0 Billy Blogs Trad 40m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
23 R * Unknown Trad 20m 1.9. Eastern Block
24 * Dead Man's Pyjamas Unknown 52m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
* Mogambo Sport 18m 1.5. Grace Gully
Pethadine Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
** Whingeing Dogs Unknown 20m 1.7. Bay Tree Towers
24 R ** Unsigned Artist Trad 45m 2 1.9. Eastern Block
25 ** The Black Streak Sport 30m 1.2. Braddlefish Wall
* That’s Life Sport 20m 1.3.1. The Boulevard
** Codein Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
* Glucosamine Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
Morphine Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
** Requiem for a Whippet Sport 20m 1.5. Grace Gully
* Slave to the Rhythm Sport 20m 1.5. Grace Gully
** The Missing Man Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
** Welcome To The Borzoi Sport 15m, 8 1.5. Grace Gully
25 R *** Hari Kari Trad 15m 1.9. Eastern Block
26 John Arthur Ray Trad 52m 1.3. Loft Chimney Area
The Second Dimension - PROJECT LUCKY Sport Project 40m 2 1.4. Town Tip Gully
*** Grace Sport 20m 1.5. Grace Gully
** Introversion Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
27 Rasta Sport 8m 1.3.1. The Boulevard
#6 Sport 15m 1.5. Grace Gully
28 R ** Cirque de Soleil Trad 30m 1.9. Eastern Block
29 * Paradise Lost Sport 18m 1.3.1. The Boulevard
* Too Legit to Quit Sport 18m 1.3.1. The Boulevard
? Project Sport 1.3.1. The Boulevard
Unclimbed, wet corner crack/chimney. Sport 1.3.1. The Boulevard
project Open Project Unknown 1.5. Grace Gully
Project (Glen) Unknown 1.5. Grace Gully