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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
11 Easy Corner Trad 20m

Mmmmm.

Start: 80m right of the gully. In the first compact section of cliff.

FA: A.Penney, 1982

2
A? Trad

Start: 5m right.

3
B? Trad

Start: 4m right again.

4
12 Short'n Sweet Trad 15m

"Um, yes I did it. But I didnt think it was worth writting up!" RT

Start: Rightward leaning corner 25m right of EC.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

5
11 Silly Chimney Trad 15m

Yes!! Take big stuff if you really want some protection.

Start: 25m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

6
23 Rank Xerox Trad 20m

2m right of Silly Chimney. Bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

7
22 R Jazz Discharge Trad 20m

4m R. Turn the bulge and carefully up past 2 bolts.

FA: G.Fieg, 1990

8
12 Last Thoughts Sport 20m

Start: 20m R of Silly Chimney, L of tree below single carrot on wall. Straight up following carrots (one FH) to lower offs.

FA: ​​W Williams & G Short, 2009

9
14 Second last thoughts Sport 25m

Start: Adjacent to Last Thoughts on R of tree. Follow bolts to lower offs. ​​

FA: W Williams & G Short, 2009

10
19 Gamma Goblin Trad 20m

Left of the corner with bushes?

Start: 20m BELOW and left of 'Rotating Toothbrush'. Treed ledge 4m above the track??

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

11
18 Head Jam Trad 20m

Steep chimney/crack, corner and crack.

Start: 55m (?) right of SC at bushes left of yellow choss corner with roof at 6m?

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

12

Just L of arete, 5m L of Rotating Toothbrush. Up past two bolts to rap station.

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1983

13
10 Le Spew Trad 10m

Start: As for previous but right to cave.

FA: C.Wilmott & D.Le Dieu, 1994

14
24 * Rotating Toothbrush Mixed 15m, 2

The only reason you really came up here. 2 bolts.

FA: R.Weigand, G.Robertson & M.Grey, 1982

15
20 R On the Loose Trad 20m

Thin crack (about 10m above the track), to horizontal - left, left then through overhang (take care) to top. You should find an old peg and a bolt up there somewhere.

Start: 20m right of the scramble up to the RT ledge.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1979

16
23 Let's Dance Mixed 15m, 2

Please no. Start: 2m right.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

17
16 Igneous Trad 15m

6m R. Clean aesthetic corner.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

18
20 Magpie Innocence Trad 15m

1m R. Bulges on right wall of the arete. Stay off the arete.

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

19
22 China Girl Trad 12m

Follow bolts to roof, over and up.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1983

20
20 Fractured Trad 20m

Start: On wall about 7m right of the gully.

FA: R.Young, 1988

21
20 R * Cracked Emerald Trad 15m

Bridge tree, then left up centre of the wall, left at the 2nd bolt.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Prehn, R.Young & M.Burton, 1982

22
22 * Cracked Actor Sport 15m

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1985

Activity

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