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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
24 ** Nothing Sport 30m

FA: W.Baird & D.Wagland, 1981

26 ** Next to Nothing Sport 30m

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

19 Areticide Sport 20m, 4

As for PT but stay on the arete. Take 3 brackets!

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 2004

15 Paper Tiger Trad 15m

Corner 5m right of the 'Nothings'.

FA: W.Williams, B.Blunt, J.Lorinez & Nutley., 1974

25 * Iron Filings Sport 27m

The hardest climb at Mt York when it was done in 82. Take about four long slings.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Robertson, 1982

26 * Metal Shavings Sport 25m

A piece of vertical technicality - very 1980s!

FA: S.Bullen & G.Hill, 1984

24 ** Ferro Pro Sport 20m

Super sustained slab with a welcome picnic cave halfway. Rebolted 2004.

FA: J. Smoothy & C. Peisker, 1985

12 Bon Ami Trad 25m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

14 Russell's Wander Trad 25m

FA: Unknown - definately not Russell Taylor.Possibly J.Worrall late's?, 1960

23 * Scatterbrain Sport 16m

As for RD for first two bolts, then trend further left and up to 'breaking wave' finish.

FA: M.Stacey D.Whithouse, 1991

23 * Royal Doulton Sport 15m

As for MP, moving left after first bolt and up steep face. Great.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

23 ** Master Plan Sport 15m

The glorious arete. Starts at the huge 'MP' marking.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

22 ** The Go Between Sport 15m

The face in the middle of the pillar, starting up Marooned before moving left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1987

20 * Marooned Sport 12m

The right arete of the pillar. Surprisingly pumpy! Needs one bolt bracket.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1980

18 Gilligan's Island Trad 13m
12 Drop Out Trad 7m
11 Easy Corner Trad 20m


Start: 80m right of the gully. In the first compact section of cliff.

FA: A.Penney, 1982

A? Trad

Start: 5m right.

B? Trad

Start: 4m right again.

12 Short'n Sweet Trad 15m

"Um, yes I did it. But I didnt think it was worth writting up!" RT

Start: Rightward leaning corner 25m right of EC.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

11 Silly Chimney Trad 15m

Yes!! Take big stuff if you really want some protection.

Start: 25m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

23 Rank Xerox Trad 20m

2m right of Silly Chimney. Bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

22 R Jazz Discharge Trad 20m

4m R. Turn the bulge and carefully up past 2 bolts.

FA: G.Fieg, 1990

12 Last Thoughts Sport 20m

Start: 20m R of Silly Chimney, L of tree below single carrot on wall. Straight up following carrots (one FH) to lower offs.

FA: ​​W Williams & G Short, 2009

14 Second last thoughts Sport 25m

Start: Adjacent to Last Thoughts on R of tree. Follow bolts to lower offs. ​​

FA: W Williams & G Short, 2009

19 Gamma Goblin Trad 20m

Left of the corner with bushes?

Start: 20m BELOW and left of 'Rotating Toothbrush'. Treed ledge 4m above the track??

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

18 Head Jam Trad 20m

Steep chimney/crack, corner and crack.

Start: 55m (?) right of SC at bushes left of yellow choss corner with roof at 6m?

FA: R.Taylor, 1974


Just L of arete, 5m L of Rotating Toothbrush. Up past two bolts to rap station.

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1983

10 Le Spew Trad 10m

Start: As for previous but right to cave.

FA: C.Wilmott & D.Le Dieu, 1994

24 * Rotating Toothbrush Mixed 15m, 2

The only reason you really came up here. 2 bolts.

FA: R.Weigand, G.Robertson & M.Grey, 1982

20 R On the Loose Trad 20m

Thin crack (about 10m above the track), to horizontal - left, left then through overhang (take care) to top. You should find an old peg and a bolt up there somewhere.

Start: 20m right of the scramble up to the RT ledge.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1979

23 Let's Dance Mixed 15m, 2

Please no. Start: 2m right.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

16 Igneous Trad 15m

6m R. Clean aesthetic corner.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

20 Magpie Innocence Trad 15m

1m R. Bulges on right wall of the arete. Stay off the arete.

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

22 China Girl Trad 12m

Follow bolts to roof, over and up.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1983

20 Fractured Trad 20m

Start: On wall about 7m right of the gully.

FA: R.Young, 1988

20 R * Cracked Emerald Trad 15m

Bridge tree, then left up centre of the wall, left at the 2nd bolt.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Prehn, R.Young & M.Burton, 1982

22 * Cracked Actor Sport 15m

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1985

15 Gigg's Excursion Trad 25m

Obvious crack with overhangs. Start at left side of alcove. Trad gear. Rap off DRBB or continue up P2 of Moonlighting the Renovations on carrots to top of cliff and DRBB.

FA: W. Williams & K. Melville, 2009


The left most route on the recessed face, equipped with carrots and fixed hangers. The top pitch is steep and in a very good position.

FA: J Gaibor, 2004

19 Year Long Winter Sport 18m

Line of carrots right of MTR, with lower offs at lip of ledge.

FA: C O'Leary, 2004

19 Still no Bathroom Sport 35m 2
  1. Line of rings up slab to DRBB.

  2. Line of rings up orange wall to DRBB lower-offs.

FA: J. Gaibor, 2004


Up chimney/corner, rightwards to shallow corner and up to tree. Through the tunnel to top.

Start: Chimney/corner about 55m right of CA.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

20 Criminal World Trad 20m

Start: Left of the flake.

16 Young Dudes Trad 20m

Flake 5m R of CW.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982

19 Camerons Climb Unknown 15m
25 * Lambrusco Kid Sport 15m

Start: Bolts 3m right of YD.

FA: A.Prehn, 1988

19 * First Year Uni Trad 15m

Start: 3m right at short corner crack.

FA: J.Smoothy & T.Bernutt, 1977

25 Second Year Uni Trad 15m

Start: As for FYU but right.

FA: A.Prehn & G.Steward, 1988

10 Kitchen Sink Trad 10m

Start: 30m right of FYU. Corners.

FA: H.Luxford, 2000

14 Roaring Forties Trad 15m

Crack and flake.

Start: 7m right again.

FA: H.Luxford, 2000

18 Modern Girl Trad 23m

At block below a small overhang and short rotten wall. Thin crack and face.

Start: 26m right of RF.

FA: M.Burton, R.Young & G.Scott, 1980

19 Post Modern Girl Unknown 18m
22 Unknown1 Unknown 25m
22 Unknown2 Unknown 45m
21 * Fizzgig Unknown 20m

FA: G.Short, J.Smoothy & P.Mort

19 Whodunnit Unknown 25m

FA: G.Short, P.Mort, B.Junge & G.Bradbury


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