Details needed

This crag does not have a description!

Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 ** Nothing Sport 30m

FA: W.Baird,D.Wagland, 1981

2
26 ** Next to Nothing Sport 30m

FA: G.Weigand, 1987

3
19 Areticide Sport 20m

As for PT but stay on the arete.

Start: As for PT.

FA: G. Short,P. Mort, 2004

4
15 Paper Tiger Trad 15m

Corner 5m right of the 'Nothings'.

FA: W.Williams,B.Blunt,J.Lorinez & Nutley., 1974

5
25 * Iron Filings Trad 40m

1982.The hardest climb at Mt.York.

FA: G.Bradbury,G.Robertson, 1982

6
26 * Metal Shavings Trad 30m

Start: 2m to the left of FP.

FA: S.Bullen,G.Hill, 1984

7
24 ** Ferro Pro Trad 25m

Rebolted 2004

FA: J. Smoothy, C. Peisker, 1985

8
12 Bon Ami Trad 25m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

9
14 Russell's Wander Trad 25m

FA: Unknown - definately not Russell Taylor.Possibly J.Worrall late's?, 1960

10
23 * Scatterbrain Trad 20m

FA: M.Stacey D.Whithouse, 1991

11
23 * Royal Doulton Sport 25m

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

12
23 ** Master Plan Sport 23m

Left hand route on the butress.

Start: Marked 'MP'!

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

13
22 ** Master Plan Direct Sport 20m
14
22 ** The Go Between Sport 15m

Middle route on the butress.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1987

15
20 * Marooned Sport 20m

Right hand route on the first butress left of the gully.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

16
18 Gilligan's Island Unknown 13m
17
12 Drop Out Unknown 7m
18
11 Easy Corner Trad 20m

Mmmmm.

Start: 80m right of the gully. In the first compact section of cliff.

FA: A.Penney, 1982

19
A? Trad

Start: 5m right.

20
B? Trad

Start: 4m right again.

21
12 Short'n Sweet Trad 15m

"Um, yes I did it. But I didnt think it was worth writting up!" RT

Start: Rightward leaning corner 25m right of EC.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

22
11 Silly Chimney Trad 15m

Yes!! Take big stuff if you really want some protection.

Start: 25m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

23
23 Rank Xerox Trad 20m

Start: 2m right. Bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

24
22 R Jazz Discharge Trad 20m

Steep wall, bulge to 'total' depression.

Start: 4m right again.

FA: G.Fieg, 1990

25
12 Last Thoughts Sport 20m

Start: 20m R of Silly Chimney, L of tree below single carrot on wall. Straight up following carrots (one FH) to lower offs.

 

FA: ​​W Williams, G Short, 2009

26
14 Second last thoughts Sport 25m

Start: Adjacent to Last Thoughts on R of tree. Follow bolts to lower offs. ​​

FA: W Williams, G Short, 2009

27
19 Gamma Goblin Trad 20m

Left of the corner with bushes?

Start: 20m BELOW and left of 'Rotating Toothbrush'. Treed ledge 4m above the track??

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

28
18 Head Jam Trad 20m

Steep chimney/crack, corner and crack.

Start: 55m (?) right of SC at bushes left of yellow choss corner with roof at 6m?

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

30
10 Le Spew Trad 10m

Start: As for previous but right to cave.

FA: C.Wilmott,D.Le Dieu, 1994

31

The only reason you really came up here.

Start: Obvious.

FA: R.Weigand,G.Robertson,M.Grey, 1982

32
20 R On the Loose Trad 20m

Thin crack (about 10m above the track), to horizontal - left, left then through overhang (Take care) to top. You should find an old peg and a bolt up there somewhere.

Start: 20m right of the scramble uo to the RT ledge.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1979

33
23 Let's Dance Trad 15m

Please no.

Start: 2m right.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1983

34
16 Igneous Trad 20m

Clean! Ascetic corner!!

Start: 6m right again.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

35
20 Magpie Innocence Trad 20m

Bulges on right wall of the arete.

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

36
22 China Girl Trad 17m

Follow bolts to roof, over and up.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1983

37
20 Fractured Trad 25m

Start: On wall about 7m right of the gully.

FA: R.Young, 1988

38
20 R * Cracked Emerald Trad 15m

Bridge tree, then left up centre of the wall, left at the 2nd bolt.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young,M.Burton, 1982

39
22 * Cracked Actor Sport 15m

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1985

40
15 Gigg's Excursion Trad 25m

Obvious crack with overhangs. Start at left side of alcove. Trad gear. Rap off DRBB or continue up P2 of Moonlighting the Renovations on carrots to top of cliff and DRBB.

FA: W. Williams, K. Melville, 2009

41

The left most route on the recessed face, equipped with carrots and fixed hangers. The top pitch is steep and in a very good position.

FA: J Gaibor, 2004

42
19 Year Long Winter Sport 18m

Line of carrots right of MTR, with lower offs at lip of ledge.

FA: C O'Leary, 2004

43
19 Still no Bathroom Sport 35m
  1. Line of rings up slab to DRBB.

  2. Line of rings up orange wall to DRBB lower-offs.

FA: J. Gaibor, 2004

44

Up chimney/corner, rightwards to shallow corner and up to tree. Through the tunnel to top.

Start: Chimney/corner about 55m right of CA.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

45
20 Criminal World Trad 20m

Start: Left of the flake.

46
16 Young Dudes Trad 20m

Start: 'Flake'.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1982

47
19 Camerons Climb Unknown 15m
48
25 * Lambrusco Kid Trad 15m

Start: Bolts 3m right again.

FA: A.Prehn, 1988

49
19 * First Year Uni Trad 15m

Start: 3m right at short corner crack.

FA: J.Smoothy,T.Bernutt, 1977

50
25 Second Year Uni Trad 15m

Start: As for FYU but right.

FA: A.Prehn,G.Steward, 1988

51
10 Kitchen Sink Trad 10m

Start: 30m right of FYU. Corners.

FA: H.Luxford, 2000

52
14 Roaring Forties Trad 15m

Crack and flake.

Start: 7m right again.

FA: H.Luxford, 2000

53
18 Modern Girl Trad 23m

At block below a small overhang and short rotten wall. Thin crack and face.

Start: 26m right of RF.

FA: M.Burton,R.Young,G.Scott, 1980

54
19 Post Modern Girl Unknown 18m
55
22 Unknown1 Unknown 25m
56
22 Unknown2 Unknown 45m
57
21 * Fizzgig Unknown 20m

FA: G.Short, J.Smoothy, P.Mort

58
19 Whodunnit Unknown 25m

FA: G.Short, P.Mort, B.Junge, G.Bradbury

59

Arete.

Start: On ledge 5m LEFT of RT.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1983

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.