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Description

Epic big wall routes up to 250m in height, and clearly visible from the other side of the valley at Perry's 'Lookout'. It is a one hour walk, or a fairly viperous 20minute mountain bike ride.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 *** Original Route Unknown 350m

FA: Russ Kippax, Dave Roots, Enn Trupold, Owen Llewellyn; Russ Kippax, Dave Roots, Enn Truupold, Owen Llewellyn

3
14 Taghairn Unknown 300m
4
The Assassination Unknown 300m
5
13 Coronation Crack Unknown 200m
6
23 R ** Pestosterone Sport 190m

Five pitches of sustained wall climbing, mostly on hanging belays. Bring 19 bolts plates (!!) and a comfortable harness. Helmets advised - you are a LONG way from a rescue (unless you can yell loud enough to get the attention of the tourists on the other side of the valley). Named in memory of a young and very motivated Graham Fairbairn, many years ago. Now he's matured into a statesman of rap.

Start: Rap into this route with double 50m ropes. You will need to rap each pitch (ie 5 abseils). Either down Groseness (15m, 25m, 40m, 50m, 25m, 25m) or down 'Pestosterone' (45m, 45, 45, 15, 45, but a bit harder to get the rope over the edge on the top rap).

  1. 45m (21) Dirty corner to start, that slowly steepens and gets more technical to hanging stance. Use long runners to avoid rope drag.

  2. 18m (20) Traverse right to rotting flake, up this with caution to gain better quality steep wall. 'Grovel' onto Oasis Ledge.

  3. 43m (23) Up thin wall to start, rightwards through small roof then up endless edges to hanging belay.

  4. 47m (23) Epic. Up thin corner, bouldery wall, roof, crimpers, edges, orange groove and final crimpy crux! Hanging belay on tiny ledge.

  5. 35m (22) A steep conclusion through the tiered roofs and pumpy end wall. 'Bush bash' up vegetation and surmount final easy wall to belay anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mike Law

7
22 Tricycle Mixed 280m, 10

A nice big crack for 3 pitches then 7 pitches of bush bashing crap. Bring a full trad rack, crampons and 10 bolt plates.

Start: You need to rap in to access this route. First ascent team went straight down the route off manky trees and bolts, not recommended. Best to rap down Grossness and walk about 200m right to below left facing big wide corner and roof.

  1. 30m (16) Scramble up choss, up easy chimney past scary chockstone, then finally layback up nice orange offwidth past 4 carrots to belay on big ledge at double BRs.

  2. 15m (22) Mega offwidth undercling under huge roof. Belay around in corner at 4 bolt belay. Pumpy!

  3. 35m (15) Continue up wide crack with spaced trad gear in horizontals. Big cams and slings useful. Belay on loose slope on multiple suss trees.

  4. 50m (1) Scramble up and right through spiky bush to little cave.

  5. 30m (6) Up dirty corner and chimney to tree belay below big orange wall.

  6. 17m (18) Climb tree to gain undercut corner at far right end of roofs on right edge of orange wall. Up corner for 7m then traverse hard left across black wall to belay in scoop at double BR belay (up high in scoop).

  7. 25m (17) Step left into corner crack. Up this (good cams) to final tricky bulge to gain bushy gully. Belay on double BRs on left side of bottom of gully.

  8. 40m (3) Classic. Bushbash straight up guts of vegetated canyon/gully until an easy traverse left solves the overhang. Belay on trad on ledge.

  9. 45m (6) Walk to left end of ledge, then up on rock (shock horror!) to topout.

  10. 30m (1) Walk right along ledge to gully and scramble up.

FA: Mike Law & Neil Monteith, 2008

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