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Description

More recently developed than Wirindi, 'Pindari' contains some great multi-pitch climbing (mostly on bolts). Many of the gear lines are good they just need a few more ascents.

The routes in this area are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

The shady side of Mt.Piddington.

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Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Middle of the short black wall in the gully.

FA: D.Grey, 1985

Scooped arete down from E.

FA: D.grey, 1985

The left hand route from the belay of TSL. Take the camera!

FA: S.Moon, 2000

  1. 18m (19) Lovely techie slab to comfy belay ledge.

  2. 25m (20) Slabby arête then a runout into cave, lean carefully left out of cave for 3rd RB. Now fight the pump up the long sustained overhung headwall right to the last move. DRB 2m back over the top.

FA: M.Law & V.Kondos, 1992

3rd route of the belay of TSL.

FA: M.Pircher & A.Duckworth, 2000

Start: The second pitch is good. Not so the first! Best to traverse right from the belay of TSL (Bolt would be handy!) and belay on the ledge below the climb.

FA: M.Law & L.McManus, 1992

Start: Start from the block in chimney (Houdini), left to ledge, slab and arete to top.

FA: W.Stevens & A.Peacock, 2001

You may wish you were a magician at some point on this one.

Start: Chimney etc.

FA: J.Ewbank & A.Campbell, 1969

Start: 9m right in chimney.

  1. 15m (8) Chimney to small ledge.

  2. 30m (12) Chimney to sandy cave and up.

FA: J.Ewbank & B.Allen, 1968

Start: Flared crack 4m right of R.

  1. 15m (-) Groove to tree? and piton.

  2. 30m (18) Crack and chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank, P.Giles & V.Kennedy, 1970

Start: Thin crack 4m right again.

  1. 21m (19) Crack then right to next crack to below the block.Turn arete and left to tree?

  2. 30m (18) Finish as for LJ.

FA: I.Lewis & K.Carrigan, 1974

Start: As for TWL until it veers left. Up right side of arete and up.

FA: J.Lynch, T.Barten & M.Peck, 1987

Start: 4m right of TWL.

  1. 27m (19) Up onto pedestal and up broken crack to main wide corner crack. A couple of BD#4's or similar Corner and crack to alcove below roof. Belay on wires or medium cams.

  2. 27m (19) Up and R to lip, up crack then R and up past trees to ledge. Belay off small/medium cams or wires.

  3. 6m (18) Undercut crack, probably dirty. Place a high wire, pull up into line, get a finger lock and top out.

FA: M.Law, J.Worrall & G.Child, 1974

Rings to the right of the arete, R of Berserker.

FA: M.Law & M.Warren, 2003

Start: 40m right of B. Ledge above track.

  1. 12m (-) Crack to undercut chimney, corner.Right to anchor.

  2. 15m (11) Chimney to roof, then short wall to tree?

  3. 30m (11) 'Gully' and wall to tree?

FA: G.Owens, G.Davies, L.Selman & R.Smith, 1966

Start: 20m right again.

  1. 25m (18) Corner to pedestal.

  2. 25m (20) Right to arete, down 3m then into corner. under roof to corner, over roof to stance.

  3. 30m (18) Crack to roof, right to arete, traverse to corner, up to belay.

  4. 20m (20) Right side of flake then up to tree?

FA: M.Law, J.Worrall & D.Gleason, 1974

Start: 5m right of M. Below roof.

  1. 25m (17 M3) Levitate gear into crack and climb the rope. Free to ledge!

  2. 20m (17) Corner(s) to roof,left to M anchor 2.

Jeez!...it sounds good!

FA: M.Law, J.Worrall & D.Gleason, 1974

Start: 125m right of LLL.Corner with parralel crack 1m right.

  1. 22m (16) Corner to ledge and tree?

  2. 33m (16) Corner to chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank & B.Allen, 1968

Start: 9m right of N.

FA: J.Worrall, 1974

Start: 5m right of XS.

  1. 30m (-) Crack to block,arete, slab to roof. Traverse right to top of chimney.

  2. 15m (18) Left corner.

FA: M.Law, 1974

Start: 5m right again.

  1. 24m (-) Bridge to attain chimney.

  2. 16m (18) Right corner.

FA: J.Worral & M.Law, 1974

Not sure of the grade on this.

Start: 'Arete' right of GM.

FA: M.Law, 1974

63m right of GM.

Start: Wide crack just left of corner.

FA: R.Young & M.Burton, 1980

Start: 8m right of GC.

FA: R.Young & M.Burton, 1980

Variation of JoJ second pitch.

Start: Straight up the arete to anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy & M.Stacey, 1988

Start: 'Arete' (carrots) 30m left of Voyage for Two.

  1. 30m (23) Right and then left side of arete. Bring #3 and/or #5 cam for the runout.

  2. 20m (24) Arete and flake, right to small roof, up then back to the arete and up.

FA: M.Stacey & S.Moon, 1987

FFA: J.Smoothy, M.Stacey & M.Law, 1988

Needs a rebolt!

Start: 'Arete' 4m Left of Voyage for Two.

  1. 27m (26) Up right to arete, then left. Up wall and groove.

  2. 23m (22) Groove, right around bulge, up wall and corner as for VfT.

FA: M.Law & G.Child, 1989

3 pitches rebolted 2004

Start: 'Arete' just right of NA. Start in thin crack right side of the arete. Ring bolts.

FA: M. Law & S. Butler, 1988

Start: 40m right of B.

  1. 20m (18) Undercat ferny crack to short crack on left.

  2. 20m (-) Right across wall to 'Cripple Corner' anchor 1.

  3. 20m (-) Finish as for CC.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

Start: Thin crack 13m right of GY.

  1. 20m (18) Short corner right then over to belay.

  2. 20m (-) Right crack leading left.Up.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1980

Start: 20m right of CC.

  1. 35m (22) Finger crack to ledge. hand crack to stumps? on ledge.

  2. 40m (-) Past scrub to roof, carefully left to corner, furthur to end of roof. Up.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

Start: 20m right of NA.

  1. 40m (22) Corner to ledge on right. Left to narrowing crack.Left to ledge.

  2. 20m (22) Corner to ledge, crack through overhang. Up.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

Start: 22m right of BA.Corner.

  1. 30m (-) Ledge, wide crack to ferns (?), right and up to ledge.

  2. 20m (21) 'Layback' and wall.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

Start: 100m right of DS.

  1. 30m (16) Roof capped corner to arete. Left to mantle, up to traverse. Right and up to tree?

  2. 25m (11) Pinacle and wall, crack.

FA: D.Wagland, 1979

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