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Description

More recently developed than Wirindi, 'Pindari' contains some great multi-pitch climbing (mostly on bolts). Many of the gear lines are good they just need a few more ascents.

The routes in this area are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

The shady side of Mt.Piddington.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Unknown Unknown 12m
2
10 R Ease Trad 15m

Middle of the short black wall in the gully.

FA: D.Grey, 1985

3
16 R Bare Essentials Trad 18m

Scooped arete down from E.

FA: D.grey, 1985

4
21 ** Rampaging Roy Sport 30m

The left hand route from the belay of TSL. Take the camera!

FA: S.Moon, 2000

5
20 *** This Sporting Life Sport 50m 2, 15
  1. 18m (19) Lovely techie slab to comfy belay ledge.

  2. 25m (20) Slabby arête then a runout into cave, lean carefully left out of cave for 3rd RB. Now fight the pump up the long sustained overhung headwall right to the last move. DRB 2m back over the top.

FA: M.Law & V.Kondos, 1992

6
22 ** Much of a Muchness Sport 30m

3rd route of the belay of TSL.

FA: M.Pircher & A.Duckworth, 2000

7
23 ** The House of Meat Sport 50m

Start: The second pitch is good. Not so the first! Best to traverse right from the belay of TSL (Bolt would be handy!) and belay on the ledge below the climb.

FA: M.Law & L.McManus, 1992

8
22 Bets over Boredom Trad 50m

Start: Start from the block in chimney (Houdini), left to ledge, slab and arete to top.

FA: W.Stevens & A.Peacock, 2001

9
17 R Houdini Trad 45m

You may wish you were a magician at some point on this one.

Start: Chimney etc.

FA: J.Ewbank & A.Campbell, 1969

10
project Project 1 Trad
11
12 Rimensky Trad 45m 2

Start: 9m right in chimney.

  1. 15m (8) Chimney to small ledge.

  2. 30m (12) Chimney to sandy cave and up.

FA: J.Ewbank & B.Allen, 1968

12
18 * Lord Jim Trad 45m 2

Start: Flared crack 4m right of R.

  1. 15m (-) Groove to tree? and piton.

  2. 30m (18) Crack and chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank, P.Giles & V.Kennedy, 1970

13
19 * The White Lion Trad 51m 2

Start: Thin crack 4m right again.

  1. 21m (19) Crack then right to next crack to below the block.Turn arete and left to tree?

  2. 30m (18) Finish as for LJ.

FA: I.Lewis & K.Carrigan, 1974

14
19 * The White Lion P1 Unknown 21m
15
20 R * Holly Golightly Trad 48m

Start: As for TWL until it veers left. Up right side of arete and up.

FA: J.Lynch, T.Barten & M.Peck, 1987

16
project Project 2 Unknown
17
19 * Beserker Aid 54m 3

Start: 4m right of TWL.

  1. 27m (-) Corner to roof.

  2. 27m (19) Up to lip,crack then to trees.

  3. 6m (-) Crack

FA: M.Law, J.Worrall & G.Child, 1974

18
27 Off–Roader Sport 20m

Rings to the right of the arete, R of Berserker.

FA: M.Law & M.Warren, 2003

19
11 R Pyreaugh Trad 57m 3

Start: 40m right of B. Ledge above track.

  1. 12m (-) Crack to undercut chimney, corner.Right to anchor.

  2. 15m (11) Chimney to roof, then short wall to tree?

  3. 30m (11) 'Gully' and wall to tree?

FA: G.Owens, G.Davies, L.Selman & R.Smith, 1966

20
20 * Mirage Trad 100m 4

Start: 20m right again.

  1. 25m (18) Corner to pedestal.

  2. 25m (20) Right to arete, down 3m then into corner. under roof to corner, over roof to stance.

  3. 30m (18) Crack to roof, right to arete, traverse to corner, up to belay.

  4. 20m (20) Right side of flake then up to tree?

FA: M.Law, J.Worrall & D.Gleason, 1974

21
17 M3 Lay Lady Lay Aid 45m 2

Start: 5m right of M. Below roof.

  1. 25m (17 M3) Levitate gear into crack and climb the rope. Free to ledge!

  2. 20m (17) Corner(s) to roof,left to M anchor 2.

Jeez!...it sounds good!

FA: M.Law, J.Worrall & D.Gleason, 1974

22
16 * Nostromo Trad 55m 2

Start: 125m right of LLL.Corner with parralel crack 1m right.

  1. 22m (16) Corner to ledge and tree?

  2. 33m (16) Corner to chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank & B.Allen, 1968

23
14 Xenon's Son Trad 15m

Start: 9m right of N.

FA: J.Worrall, 1974

24
18 Shugar Sport 45m 2

Start: 5m right of XS.

  1. 30m (-) Crack to block,arete, slab to roof. Traverse right to top of chimney.

  2. 15m (18) Left corner.

FA: M.Law, 1974

25
18 Gargoyle's Mouth Trad 40m 2

Start: 5m right again.

  1. 24m (-) Bridge to attain chimney.

  2. 16m (18) Right corner.

FA: J.Worral & M.Law, 1974

26
18 R June Day Trad 40m

Not sure of the grade on this.

Start: 'Arete' right of GM.

FA: M.Law, 1974

27
18 Gross Crack Trad 40m

63m right of GM.

Start: Wide crack just left of corner.

FA: R.Young & M.Burton, 1980

28
18 * Bandalero Trad 46m

Start: 8m right of GC.

FA: R.Young & M.Burton, 1980

29
25 ** Vets Over Verdon Sport 20m

Variation of JoJ second pitch.

Start: Straight up the arete to anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy & M.Stacey, 1988

30
24 ** Jets Over Jordan Sport 50m 2

Start: 'Arete' (carrots) 30m left of Voyage for Two.

  1. 30m (23) Right and then left side of arete. Bring #3 and/or #5 cam for the runout.

  2. 20m (24) Arete and flake, right to small roof, up then back to the arete and up.

FA: M.Stacey & S.Moon, 1987

FFA: J.Smoothy, M.Stacey & M.Law, 1988

31
26 ** Pussy Strut Sport 50m 2

Needs a rebolt!

Start: 'Arete' 4m Left of Voyage for Two.

  1. 27m (26) Up right to arete, then left. Up wall and groove.

  2. 23m (22) Groove, right around bulge, up wall and corner as for VfT.

FA: M.Law & G.Child, 1989

32
25 *** Voyage for Two Sport 55m

3 pitches rebolted 2004

Start: 'Arete' just right of NA. Start in thin crack right side of the arete. Ring bolts.

FA: M. Law & S. Butler, 1988

33
18 Golden Years Trad 60m 3

Start: 40m right of B.

  1. 20m (18) Undercat ferny crack to short crack on left.

  2. 20m (-) Right across wall to 'Cripple Corner' anchor 1.

  3. 20m (-) Finish as for CC.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

34
18 Cripple Corner Trad 40m 2

Start: Thin crack 13m right of GY.

  1. 20m (18) Short corner right then over to belay.

  2. 20m (-) Right crack leading left.Up.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1980

35
22 No Action Trad 75m 2

Start: 20m right of CC.

  1. 35m (22) Finger crack to ledge. hand crack to stumps? on ledge.

  2. 40m (-) Past scrub to roof, carefully left to corner, furthur to end of roof. Up.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

36
22 ** Blind Ambition Trad 60m 2

Start: 20m right of NA.

  1. 40m (22) Corner to ledge on right. Left to narrowing crack.Left to ledge.

  2. 20m (22) Corner to ledge, crack through overhang. Up.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

37
21 Death Syndrome Trad 50m 2

Start: 22m right of BA.Corner.

  1. 30m (-) Ledge, wide crack to ferns (?), right and up to ledge.

  2. 20m (21) 'Layback' and wall.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

38
16 Zagen Trad 55m 2

Start: 100m right of DS.

  1. 30m (16) Roof capped corner to arete. Left to mantle, up to traverse. Right and up to tree?

  2. 25m (11) Pinacle and wall, crack.

FA: D.Wagland, 1979