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Table of contents

1. Pindari 38 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.256350, -33.605255

Description:© (secretary)

More recently developed than Wirindi, 'Pindari' contains some great multi-pitch climbing (mostly on bolts). Many of the gear lines are good they just need a few more ascents.

The routes in this area are listed LEFT to RIGHT.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach:© (secretary)

The shady side of Mt.Piddington.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zagen

Start: 100m right of DS.

  1. 30m (16) Roof capped corner to arete. Left to mantle, up to traverse. Right and up to tree?

  2. 25m (11) Pinacle and wall, crack.

FA: D.Wagland, 1979

16Trad 55m
2 Death Syndrome

Start: 22m right of BA.Corner.

  1. 30m (-) Ledge, wide crack to ferns (?), right and up to ledge.

  2. 20m (21) 'Layback' and wall.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

21Trad 50m Rod Young

Alt leads with Ant 1980

3 ** Blind Ambition

Start: 20m right of NA.

  1. 40m (22) Corner to ledge on right. Left to narrowing crack.Left to ledge.

  2. 20m (22) Corner to ledge, crack through overhang. Up.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

22Trad 60m Rod Young

Alt leads with Ant 1980

4 No Action

Start: 20m right of CC.

  1. 35m (22) Finger crack to ledge. hand crack to stumps? on ledge.

  2. 40m (-) Past scrub to roof, carefully left to corner, furthur to end of roof. Up.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

22Trad 75m Rod Young

LED with Ant 1980

5 Cripple Corner

Start: Thin crack 13m right of GY.

  1. 20m (18) Short corner right then over to belay.

  2. 20m (-) Right crack leading left.Up.

FA: A.Prehn,R.Young, 1980

18Trad 40m Rod Smith 8 years ago

Classic trad line. Small hands jam crack.

guus davidson 8 years ago

trad crack

6 Golden Years

Start: 40m right of B.

  1. 20m (18) Undercat ferny crack to short crack on left.

  2. 20m (-) Right across wall to 'Cripple Corner' anchor 1.

  3. 20m (-) Finish as for CC.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn,M.Burton, 1980

18Trad 60m Rod Young

Alt leads with Ant 1980

7 *** Voyage for Two

3 pitches rebolted 2004

Start: 'Arete' just right of NA. Start in thin crack right side of the arete. Ring bolts.

FA: M. Law, S. Butler, 1988

25Sport 55m
8 ** Pussy Strut

Needs a rebolt!

Start: 'Arete' 4m Left of Voyage for Two.

  1. 27m (26) Up right to arete, then left. Up wall and groove.

  2. 23m (22) Groove, right around bulge, up wall and corner as for VfT.

FA: M.Law,G.Child, 1989

26Sport 50m
9 ** Jets Over Jordan

Start: 'Arete' (carrots) 30 LEFT of VfT.

  1. 30m (23) Right and then left side of arete. 'Arete' to ledge.

  2. 20m (24) 'Arete' and flake, right to small roof, up then back to the arete and up.

FA: M.Stacey,S.Moon, 1987

FFA: J.Smoothy,M.Stacey,M.Law, 1988

24Sport 50m
10 ** Vets Over Verdon

Variation of JoJ second pitch.

Start: Straight up the arete to anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Stacey, 1988

25Sport 20m
11 * Bandalero

Start: 8m right of GC.

FA: R.Young,M.Burton, 1980

18Trad 46m Rod Young

LED with Mark B. 1980

12 Gross Crack

63m right of GM.

Start: Wide crack just left of corner.

FA: R.Young,M.Burton, 1980

18Trad 40m Rod Young

LED with Mark B. 1980

13 June Day

Not sure of the grade on this.

Start: 'Arete' right of GM.

FA: M.Law, 1974

18 RTrad 40m
14 Gargoyle's Mouth

Start: 5m right again.

  1. 24m (-) Bridge to attain chimney.

  2. 16m (18) Right corner.

FA: J.Worral,M.Law, 1974

18Trad 40m
15 Shugar

Start: 5m right of XS.

  1. 30m (-) Crack to block,arete, slab to roof. Traverse right to top of chimney.

  2. 15m (18) Left corner.

FA: M.Law, 1974

18Sport 45m
16 Xenon's Son

Start: 9m right of N.

FA: J.Worrall, 1974

14Trad 15m
17 * Nostromo

Start: 125m right of LLL.Corner with parralel crack 1m right.

  1. 22m (16) Corner to ledge and tree?

  2. 33m (16) Corner to chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank,B.Allen, 1968

16Trad 55m
18 Lay Lady Lay

Start: 5m right of M. Below roof.

  1. 25m (17 M3) Levitate gear into crack and climb the rope. Free to ledge!

  2. 20m (17) Corner(s) to roof,left to M anchor 2.

Jeez!...it sounds good!

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall,D.Gleason, 1974

17 M3Aid 45m
19 * Mirage

Start: 20m right again.

  1. 25m (18) Corner to pedestal.

  2. 25m (20) Right to arete, down 3m then into corner. under roof to corner, over roof to stance.

  3. 30m (18) Crack to roof, right to arete, traverse to corner, up to belay.

  4. 20m (20) Right side of flake then up to tree?

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall,D.Gleason, 1974

20Trad 100m David Barnes 25 years ago

Can just remember doing it, was very good.

20 Pyreaugh

Start: 40m right of B. Ledge above track.

  1. 12m (-) Crack to undercut chimney, corner.Right to anchor.

  2. 15m (11) Chimney to roof, then short wall to tree?

  3. 30m (11) 'Gully' and wall to tree?

FA: G.Owens,G.Davies,L.Selman,R.Smith, 1966

11 RTrad 57m
21 * Beserker

Start: 4m right of TWL.

  1. 27m (-) Corner to roof.

  2. 27m (19) Up to lip,crack then to trees.

  3. 6m (-) Crack

FA: M.Law,J.Worrall,G.Child, 1974

19Aid 54m shaunm 6 years ago

need a few 3.5 or 4 camalots,will return

22 Project 2 projectUnknown
23 * Holly Golightly

Start: As for TWL until it veers left. Up right side of arete and up.

FA: J.Lynch,T.Barten,M.Peck, 1987

20 RTrad 48m
24 * The White Lion P1 19Unknown 21m
25 * The White Lion

Start: Thin crack 4m right again.

  1. 21m (19) Crack then right to next crack to below the block.Turn arete and left to tree?

  2. 30m (18) Finish as for LJ.

FA: I.Lewis,K.Carrigan, 1974

19Trad 51m Tony Williams 9 years ago

Good for 15m then pretty shitty to the top

26 * Lord Jim

Start: Flared crack 4m right of R.

  1. 15m (-) Groove to tree? and piton.

  2. 30m (18) Crack and chimney.

FA: J.Ewbank,P.Giles,V.Kennedy, 1970

18Trad 45m Nathan Poole 7 years ago

Needs cleaning and the couple of bolts replaced

27 Rimensky

Start: 9m right in chimney.

  1. 15m (8) Chimney to small ledge.

  2. 30m (12) Chimney to sandy cave and up.

FA: J.Ewbank,B.Allen, 1968

12Trad 45m
28 Project 1 projectTrad
29 Houdini

You may wish you were a magician at some point on this one.

Start: Chimney etc.

FA: J.Ewbank,A.Campbell, 1969

17 RTrad 45m
30 Bets over Boredom

Start: Start from the block in chimney (Houdini), left to ledge, slab and arete to top.

FA: W.Stevens,A.Peacock, 2001

22Trad 50m
31 ** The House of Meat

Start: The second pitch is good. Not so the first! Best to traverse right from the belay of TSL (Bolt would be handy!) and belay on the ledge below the climb.

FA: M.Law,L.McManus, 1992

23Sport 50m lucky chance 1 years ago

a brilliant climb and a perfect ropesolo. Dont listen to what they say about the first pitch.. i...

Jason Smith 6 years ago

In one long pitch - sightly dodgy rock, but great sustained climbing as the sun was going down

32 ** Much of a Muchness

3rd route of the belay of TSL.

FA: M.Pircher,A.Duckworth, 2000

22Sport 30m lucky chance 1 years ago

This whole cliff is Made for ropesoloing! so if your out by yourself & looking for a place to thr...

Taib 1 years ago

Nice climbing, good holds.

33 *** This Sporting Life
  1. 18m (19) Lovely techie slab to comfy belay ledge.

  2. 25m (20) Slabby arête then a runout into cave, lean carefully left out of cave for 3rd RB. Now fight the pump up the long sustained overhung headwall right to the last move. DRB 2m back over the top.

FA: M.Law,V.Kondos, 1992

20Sport 50m, 15 lucky chance 1 years ago

first pitch on this one is a must-do too! totally different style of climbing and on par quality ...

peta barrett 1 years ago

Repeat. Runout between 2nd and third bolt on second pitch. Awesome fun but be careful!

34 ** Rampaging Roy

The left hand route from the belay of TSL. Take the camera!

FA: S.Moon, 2000

21Sport 30m lucky chance 1 years ago

fun as! feels a bit steeper than the others but all jugs and felt the easiest out of the 3 that s...

Colin McEown 1 years ago

Fuck yeah!!

35 Bare Essentials

Scooped arete down from E.

FA: D.grey, 1985

16 RTrad 18m
36 Ease

Middle of the short black wall in the gully.

FA: D.Grey, 1985

10 RTrad 15m
37 Unknown 20Unknown 12m
38 Off–Roader

Start: Rings to the right of the arete.

FA: M.Law, M.Warren, 2003

27Sport 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Ease Trad 15m
11 Pyreaugh Trad 57m
12 Rimensky Trad 45m
14 Xenon's Son Trad 15m
16 Bare Essentials Trad 18m
* Nostromo Trad 55m
Zagen Trad 55m
17 Houdini Trad 45m
17 M3 Lay Lady Lay Aid 45m
18 * Bandalero Trad 46m
Cripple Corner Trad 40m
Gargoyle's Mouth Trad 40m
Golden Years Trad 60m
Gross Crack Trad 40m
June Day Trad 40m
* Lord Jim Trad 45m
Shugar Sport 45m
19 * Beserker Aid 54m
* The White Lion Trad 51m
* The White Lion P1 Unknown 21m
20 * Holly Golightly Trad 48m
* Mirage Trad 100m
*** This Sporting Life Sport 50m, 15
Unknown Unknown 12m
21 Death Syndrome Trad 50m
** Rampaging Roy Sport 30m
22 Bets over Boredom Trad 50m
** Blind Ambition Trad 60m
** Much of a Muchness Sport 30m
No Action Trad 75m
23 ** The House of Meat Sport 50m
24 ** Jets Over Jordan Sport 50m
25 ** Vets Over Verdon Sport 20m
*** Voyage for Two Sport 55m
26 ** Pussy Strut Sport 50m
27 Off–Roader Sport 20m
project Project 1 Trad
Project 2 Unknown