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The first area you come to when walking in down the Horne's Point Fire Road.

The climbs are listed RIGHT to LEFT as you come to them. Many are marked.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
11 * The Bonatti Crack Trad 8m

Start: 7m left of the chopped steps in the descent gully.

The obvious crack - good intro to jamming

FA: Walter Bonatti, 2000

22 Chris' Climb Trad 9m

Start: 3m right of TBC.

FA: M.Law & Harrison, 1979

23 No Fingers, No Fun Sport 13m

Start: 1m left again.

16 * Taurus Trad 21m

Start: 1m left again. 'Diagonal Crack'.

FA: J.Worral & R.Templeton, 1968

21 R Accuracy Trad 20m

Start: 5m left of T.

FA: Dowden, 1980

20 R Up and Coming Trad 20m

Start: Arete 3.5m left of A.

FA: M.Law & Reece, 1977


Start: Up the crack to the right of GU.

9 * Great Unwashed Trad 20m

Has a direct start - crack to the right. Add 4 grades!

FA: G.Owens, L.Williams & J.Wilson, 1969

20 R *** Shango Sport 20m

Start: Right side of the arete left of GU. Has been rebolted with a direct start.

FA: G Fieg, 1991

19 R Problems Trad 15m

Start: Short chimney 2m left of S. No pro!!

FA: M.Law, 1978


Check out what is happening in Descent Gully Area.