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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

Huge boulder 30m down hill from Descent Gull Area.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Spastic Octopus Sport 10m

Start: Nth facing wall 30m down from 'Last Chance'.

FA: G.Robbins, 1980

2
15 Helen Trad 12m

Start: crack 3m right of SO.

FA: C.Monteath, 1971

3
19 Intermission Trad 15m

Start: Traverse line 1m right of H.

FA: G.Weigand, 1981

4
15 R Bolt Upright Trad 22m

Start: Blunt arete 8m to the right. Solo!

FA: M.Law, 1978

5

Start: 5m right of BU.

FA: A.Farquar, 1992

6
19 R * Salem Super Direct Trad 23m

Start: Blunt arete 2m right of TLNW.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1978

7
19 ** Zany Sport 23m

Start: This diagonal 4m right again.

FA: A.Penney,M.Law, 1978

8
20 * Pandemonium Trad 23m

Start: 1m right of Z.

FA: A.Penney,M.Law, 1978

9
22 ** Mandelbrot Set Mixed 15m, 1

Start up arete under fixed hanger between Pandemonium and Hot Water, finishing up HW.

FA: W Stevens, 2002

10
17 Hot Water Trad 15m

Start: Chimney 1m right of Z.

FA: J.Smoothy,A.Dunn,P.Martland, 1978

11
11 Guinevere Trad 20m

Start: As for HW. Chimney and corner.

FA: M.Law,L.Hall, 1974

12
15 Doughboy Trad 15m

Start: Left arete directly below G.

FA: W.Moon, 1980

13
15 Crocodile Tears Trad 15m

Up grooove 3m right of Doughboy

FA: W Moon, 1980