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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
19 ** Last Chance Trad 15m

Start: 11 left of P.

FFA: W.Williams, A.Stevens (Law & Carrigan), 1974

17 * Think Kink Sport 16m, 4

Right arete of slabby face past 3 rings and a glue-in carrot.

Start: 'Arete' 2m left of LC.

FA: M.Law & K.Rosebery, 1976

20 ** Toucan Café Sport 15m

Start: 1m left of TK.

FA: A.Penney & G.Bradbury, 1980

17 R Slape Trad 20m

Start: The middle of the wall.

FA: A.Gordon, M.Law & R.Taylor, 1972

22 * Rad Fem Trad 18m

Start: 2m left of S.

FA: M.Law, 1979

22 Glass Asylum Trad 20m

Start: 2.5m left again.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

20 * Turkey Patrol Trad 18m

Start: 4m left of GA.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978

6 Their Finest Hour Trad 40m

Start: Chimney with block, cave and roof. 3 Pitches.

FA: R.Smith & D.Moss, 1965

12 Tyrannasaurus Rex Trad 50m, 3

Start: 10m left of TFH.

  1. (14m). Mantle and squeeze behind the tree to crack/flake. Up ramp to ledge.

  2. (23m). Either up layback flake (as in Blue Mountains guidebook; not a grade 12 move), or traverse right and mantle onto ledge (also not a grade 12 move, but easier than the flake). Up, then traverse right along ledge.

  3. (13m). Scramble up.

FA: A.Campbell, B.Osbourne & T.Tierney, 1966

18 Masochist Trad 38m
12 Whatever You Like Trad 35m
18 * Merlot Madness Trad 30m

Harder and better than it looks. Start left of WYL. Straight up wall with carrots and small/medium cams to DRBB.

FA: B Cameron & H Luxford, 2008

13 * Chicken Hearted Mixed 42m, 8

Start 7m left of WYL. Supplement new bolts with a few cams. Up to ledge, then overhang and straight to top. Double bolt lower off at 28m.

FA: H Luxford & B Osbourne, 1966

11 ** Cider Trad 39m
21 Gog Trad 37m
8 * Chimney and Wall Trad 40m, 2

1m left of Gog.

An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.

  1. Up chimney 1m left of Gog to bushy ledge. Fun climbing with good pro. 12m (8)

  2. Corner then wall and ramp on right. 24m (8) Alternatively, finish as for Cider in bottleneck chimney above.

FA: J Ewbank & E Saxby., 1964

19 * Marantha Aid 65m, 2

Good but take care!

Start: 2.5m L of C&W

  1. 15m (19) 'Steep' orange wall to ledge under roof

  2. 25m (17) Directly up through roof and up wall above

FA: G Dowden & R Taylor, 1982

19 ** Corinthian Trad 40m, 2


Start: Start as for Maranatha

  1. 15m (19) As for M for 8m then left up slab to ledge

  2. 25m (16) Diagonally up ramp to wall & up

FA: B Zemek & W Davenport, 1971

13 * Armageddon Trad 49m, 3

Better than it looks!

Start: 15m left of 'Corinthian'

  1. 21m (13) Up through choss, over bulge & up slab

  2. 15m (13) Left to wall & up cave, bush anchors on left

  3. 13m (13) Up corner

FA: J Pickard & T Tierney, 1966

21 * Bon Voyage Sport 60m

Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base

FA: M Law & A Penney, 1979

21 * The Athenian Trad 57m, 3

Start at 'S' (for the Spartan)

  1. 21m (21) Up right hand corner and up left into corner

  2. 24m (21) Right to cave, hard move to arete and up

  3. 12m (-) Up off ledge to obvious topout

FA: J Ewbank & R Reynolds, 1967

16 *** The Spartan Mixed 50m, 3, 1

Classic roof traverse above great space

Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A

  1. 16m (14) Thrutch up easy corner then up & left to belay at bottom of offwidth. Manky carrot + medium cams and nuts belay

  2. 24m (16) What you're here for. Up offwidth in left corner, carrot at top then traverse into space. If you're tall, watch your helmet at the squeeze. Up at chimney, belay there on gear or 2x carrots on ledge outside.

  3. 10m (14) Up and crank over side of offwidth, tree belay

FA: John Ewbank (Second freaked)

19 * Twister Trad 50m, 2

Hostile, good second pitch

Start: At yellow crack on opposite wall to Spartan (8m L)

  1. 25m (19) Up easy but soft yellow cracks, out left & diagonally up to ledge with bolt anchors

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse left to scoop & up

FA: M Law & R McGregor, 1977

22 * Brydens Route Sport 40m

As for the Plunge but traverse right and up through roof

FA: Ivalenta/ G Child?

23 *** The Plunge Sport 40m

Interesting and varied climbing.

Start: Start at a rotten groove beneath a big, black wall.

FA: M Law & G Child, 1980

15 That Trad 61m
13 It Trad 52m
18 What Trad 55m
23 Renegade Trad 61m
12 Divine Right Trad 20m
5 Valhalla Trad 51m
19 * Cartwheeling Sport 30m, 3
  1. 15m, 13. Bolts right of Valhalla.

  2. 15m, 19. Bolts up right side of arete. Lower offs on both belays.

  3. Finish up Vinyl Idyl if you must.

FA: Ivan & Bob


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