Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
19 | Marantha | 65m | |||||
Actually came to revisit my teenage brain from above but got spooked. Had a good old look at P1 from below and remembered a few spooking moves off the deck. Guess the bolts are at the belay ledge, which means maybe two bits of gear in 20m past the scoops before that. And who knows what sparse landscapes extend above the P2 roof?
|
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17 | ★ Merlot Madness | 30m | Average | ||||
Big-ups to Harry for cracking out another new route 42 years after Chimney and Wall. Passed a zillion FH and carrots in the intervening decades.
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Amos J
1
14
16
2
16
24
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Outrageous position P2, old school 16 for sure but so many tasty jams to keep you in the fight. For a four starred climb we found the rap setup of the chockstone pretty average.
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Sun 24th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 Hard | ★★★ The Spartan - with Gabrielle Austen | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Finally got on it! So much fun!! Glad I saved it till now, would be scary for the inexperienced
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Piret May | 50m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
That offwidth! And the move out of the traverse!!! Full value old-school 16!
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
13 ~12 |
★ Chimney and Wall
- with
Nic W
1
13
12
2
11
24
| 36m | |||||
A fun climb to start the day. Spent too long trying to find an anchor after pitch 1. Gave up and made a weird, but somewhat bomber anchor at the start of the bushes in the crack. Actual anchors are up far to the right after pitch 1, at the base of pitch 2.
Large cams (#4, #5) make the second pitch easier, but not unachievable without. Smaller cams fit in horizontal placements for both the anchor between pitch 1 and 2 as well as pitch 2 itself. Can bail with 70m rope half way up pitch 2 from a strong tree if you don't want to top out and hike around and down. Guidebook grade is typical of blue mountains climbing. I'd say it's probably about a 12. |
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I swear it keeps getting better and better, love this climbs so much!
|
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Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
gabe
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So rad! 60m rope makes it to the ground at the end of pitch 2.
|
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16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Pete Jordan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
A #6 was useful for bumping. | 40m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Love it.
|
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 V |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Orrin Huf
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
V
10m
never thought I’d pssat on a 14 🫣 | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Pretty sure this climb was entirely funded by black diamond to sell more #5 cams
|
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16 Hard |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Eli Solly
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
Bring #5 cams or you're soloing the first half
3
15
10m
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Favourite climb I've done
|
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Tue 9th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | |||||
This was a delightful grovel. Groaned, grovelled and head jammed.. P1 and 2 only in the rain.
|
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Fri 29th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Tom Bates | 50m, 4 | |||||
Pure grovel up the crack turned into a delicate traverse sequence under the roof
|
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a blast! The traverse is Definitely easier for shorter people as it's pretty compressed. The offwidth left big bruises on my thigh how well i was jammed in there and finally got to place my shiny #6. We rapped down after pitch 2 on doubles. New cord to rap off from there.
|
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Tue 26th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Dave Westby
3
14
10m
Didn’t bother with the third pitch | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route! Loved the grunt up the off width crack towards the belay carrot, super glad I had a number 7 & 8 DMM cam to protect that section & bump them to glory! Second pitch was a beauty, sweet features & hold galore as you waltz across the ledge to the safety of a chimney squirm finish!
|
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Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Tom P
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
New standard for weird thrutchy movement.
|
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16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thrutch.
|
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Brock | 50m, 4 | |||||
Sick route. The slab/offwidth is the crux for me. Bring a no 5 and 6 if you want to feel fully protected.
The traverse is fine - good thrills at modest grade. Rapped off the sling which, although fine for now, could benefit from being replaced soon. |
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
20 | ★ Wizened Young Lads | 30m, 13 | |||||
pretty terrifying crux with decking potential. downclimbed three times to rest then commited after getting some beta on a sharp left crimp. i don't think i'd want to climb this again.
|
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
23 Easy | ★★★ The Plunge | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice combination of face and slab climbing. 67m rope made it down by letting rope through the device as I hit the ground
|
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
19 | Slape | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||
No doubt a wonderful journey if you're confident leading 8m off the deck past several slabby iffy mantles smeared with lichen - which with grade creep are more post-millenial 19 then 70s 17 - to a poor microcam, then another 3m to a 50 year old carrot, and beyond. Otherwise save your breath, bacon and bonhomie, or toprope if you must.
One from, and for, the history books. Postscriptum: I was genuinely horrified when my old climbing mate assured me we had done this together, back in the days of our undeveloped teenage brains. |
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17 | ★ Think Kink | 16m, 4 | Average | ||||
Always thought this was a Col Reece route for some reason. Flustered by nearby nonsense and nearly dropped it on the crux.
|
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21 | ★ Toucan Café | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
Not sure why even a sport climber would bother with this 10m lead up the ramp to the headwall, unless they could stick clip the first ring from a boom lift or barrage balloon. Plus more grade creep past long stretches, as has been noted.
|
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Plunge | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
Not my best attempt. Felt quite sandy and slippery, not quite as inspiring as i was hoping
|
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16
2
16
24
3
14
10
| 50m, 4 | |||||
The BM guidebook recommends a certain piece of gear, I also recommend it. Super awesome at the grade!
|
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First pitch really wasn’t that bad to be honest?
But yes, the money is the second pitch and that was WILD! Moments of crazy laughing and smiling, but also moments of terror! A 5 and 6 made me feel much better, I somehow managed to unclip the rope from the QuickDraw while I was thrutching up. Luckily was not that important of a piece! The space walk was fantastic; loved it, not in a hurry to hop back on, but happy to know what gear I need in the future! Rapped off after pitch 2. |
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16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Jason Nguyen | 50m, 4 | |||||
Lead pitch 1, Jason lead pitch 2
Awesome to have finally done this ridiculousness
Didn't do pitch 3 rapped off the set of fixed slings around the chockstone |
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lead the crux pitch, what a climb!!! Good to come back after brownpointing on second last year
|
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | |||||
Offwidth slab is not a combo you'd expect. Cool birthing experience with Ceaser
|
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
13 | ★ Armageddon - with Matty B | 49m | Don't Bother | ||||
So chossy on pitch 1 😬
|
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Wed 26th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Sarah McVicker
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
About time I got on this! Very cool atmospheric climbing.
|
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
20 | ★ Wizened Young Lads | 30m, 13 | Average | ||||
Did this so I could be the 1000 logged ascent on this sector, but not really worth it. I found getting off the ledge scary. Fortunately a stick was there as couldn’t reach the bolt
|
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Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
John
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun climb to start the day. Nice exposure on the traverse.
|
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Sun 16th Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Tim Winterflood
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First climb of the day which made for a good mental warmup. Definitely a bit of a journey and definitely good fun!
|
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
pat
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lead p1, followed pats lil session on p2, rapped from chockstone anchor
|
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Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
23 ~21 | ★★★ The Plunge | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It felt like a 21 OS hence the downgrade. Happy for people to argue that it's harder. Was a bit drizzly also.
|
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Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
20 | ★ Wizened Young Lads - with Bruno Martins | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route. Be careful with some loose rocks.
|
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19 |
★ Cartwheeling
- with
Guilherme Pizzi
| 30m | |||||
Nice multi at Piddo, the idea was to climb the 21 at the top, but the sun beated us
|
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20 | ★ Wizened Young Lads - with Guilherme Pizzi | 30m, 13 | |||||
Cool long route. Some loose rocks, be careful
|
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Amy Chan
1
14
16
lead by
Robert Hartley
A bit uninteresting, and a tight squeeze about half way up. Ample protection.
2
16
24
lead by
Robert Hartley
Unpleasant off-width followed by amazing roof traverse! The traverse really is the only reason to jump on this, in my opinion.
3
14
10
lead by
Robert Hartley
Apparently you go up the outside of the chimney, which I did not recall from the route description… After I couldn’t fit any part of me through it, I eventually figured it out! | 50m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I get why this route has 3 stars, it’s pretty inspiring to look at! The climbing, for me at least, was only inspiring during the roof traverse of P2. The position is also plenty of fun.
If I could only have done one of the two routes I did today, I’d pick Flake Crack every day. |
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
Crack glove
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Jorge Packer
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome offwidth and roof. Really needed the #6 (Thanks Rodolfo Bertozo ). Rapped of P2 anchors. Those didn’t look great but still ok to rap.
|
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Fri 16th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Claire Evans
1
14
16
2
16
24
3
14
10
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Led the offsidth up to the roof and set a hanging belay off cams and carrot because I wanted to get some cool photos of the roof. Don't know how you'd do the offwidth safely without a 6, the 5 was very undercammed. Struggled a bit with the roof because of my height. Rapped off from pitch 2 anchor, inspect fixed slings before clipping, bit worn. Really unique climb
|
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16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Alex Holroyd
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
14
10m
| 50m, 4 | |||||
Another fun afternoon. I seconded the first pitch and found it very enjoyable to climb, easy but weird start. The offwidth was so much fun even if I lost some skin. Leading the roof traverse was incredible! So much fun and nice movements with good pro.
|
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Fri 9th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Louis Umashev | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolutely amazing climb, better than the eternity!! Traverse pitch is next level stuff, insane! Climbed the last pitch and rapped off the climb to the left
|
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Plunge - with Marion Lemetayer, Nick Nikolaiev, Jorge Packer | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
not a good day
|
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19 |
★ Cartwheeling
- with
Marion Lemetayer
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A bit stiff for a 19, but really cool moves!
|
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Fri 2nd Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Harrie Van de Linde, Mariana
1
14
16
2
16
24
3
14
10
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
MEGA CLASSIC, again, absolutely unreal, very thrutchy very exposed, Mari' killed it on this considering she hasnt done much climbing beforehand. Memorable route. No pitch 3
|
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Thu 1st Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Dylan Glavas, Harrie Van de Linde
1
14
16
2
16
24
3
14
10
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First time in the Blue Mountains, what an experience!! The second pitch really tested me in every way possible. I am so lucky to climb alongside Harrie and Dylan. Absolutely stoked to have finished it!!
|
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16 Hard | ★★★ The Spartan - with Dylan Glavas | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
what an UNREAl climb this is. you have no idea what you're in for till you're the one on the climb, in the middle of the traverse, in very awkward positions. Mariana did so well to get through this one considering shes only done less than 15 climbs ever.
|
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Tue 22nd Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Jack Seawright, Georgia Forster, Tillygoodwin
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
14
10m
Didn’t do this pitch | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic! So nice 2nd pitch little bit frightening but lots of fun, farewell yims go cards and so long jacks bolt plates and goodbye Tilly’s sunnies
|
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Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Plunge - with Nick Nikolaiev | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got scared with the rain coming. Mental game wasn’t good today.
|
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20 | ★ Wizened Young Lads - with Nick Nikolaiev | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not a bad climb, many good moves there
|
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Cynthia F. | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty good and easy classic, the offwidth is not hard than says, I went there with a little fear because the comments of the offwidth, just don't layback, use a offwidth technique and feel like a 16 or easy fore sure. The roof was fun, probably the part that I most enjoy.
|
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Jennifer, Jennifer Sartor, Jarrad Aurisch, Nils Birkmann, Timothy Wilson
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | |||||
Backpack was an issue at end of P2.
|
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Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
14
10m
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One grunt at a time in the offwidth! I probably would have pooped myself if I'd had lead pitch 2, that traverse was scary! A #6 would have been useful. Unsure if we were supposed to squeeze through the horrible and non protected chimney at the end. Bailed and decided to top out towards the right instead, much safer.
What an epic adventure!
|
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Tue 6th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Ella | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Rapped off the end p2 but still did in 3 pitches due to some confusion over where they ended. I will henceforth contend that slab offwidth is harder than vert offwidth, ended up pony riding the top portion for all it was worth. Ella fortunately did a far better job. Roof pitch takes the whole climb up a notch, cant believe a section like that exists at a nice moderate grade.
|
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Fri 26th Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Always expect this to be az walk. It isn't. But it is a classic
|
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
14
10m
| 50m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The off width was fun and easy to protect. The roof took a while to read but was fine. Third pitch is short but worth it for the one move. Walked of the top.
|
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Tue 28th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Stephanie Andrea | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Definitely slippery as in the off-width section. I almost felt like 2 6s would have been more helpful than a 5 and a 6. The roof traverse wasn't bad at all compared to the glassy off-width. We just did the first 2 pitches.
|
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Tue 3rd May 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Ed
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
lead by
Ed
3
14
10m
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Epic adventure and a huge challenge. Offwidth technique definitely needs work. Traverse was amazing and terrifying. Not sure about the third pitch. The chimney seemed impossible. Ended up pulling over the overhang on the left.
|
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Mon 2nd May 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
very, very fun.
|
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
14 |
★ Chimney and Wall
- with
Siobhan Sullivan
| 36m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Typical Piddo old school grading, much harder than the grade. First pitch has some decent rests with placements for medium cams, medium nuts and large nuts. Take a couple of #5's for the second pitch or simply bump as you go. Excellent climbing!
|
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | |||||
Did the first 2 pitches, up the 14 and 16 roof traverse. Nice little storm came in creating a waterfall at the pitch 16 belay. Turned into canyoning pretty quick, at least the traverse was dry for the seconder. Bailed there due to hectic storm
|
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Prawnmaster | 50m, 4 | |||||
By far the coolest pitch I've ever climbed, and not awfully sandbagged. Walked out after the 3rd and sketchy pitch.
|
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Sun 3rd Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Johnny Sullivan | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rapped off after p2.
|
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Plunge | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Dogged it, lead rope solo. Beautiful route - hard crimpy moves low down, reachy and technical. Later on turns into beautiful techie face climbing. I think it goes w/ a bit of practice. Ground anchor off a solid tree, lends itself well to LRS if you are confident of the first three bolts (which are not bad).
|
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19 | Twister | 50m | |||||
Onsight, lead rope solo, linked pitches. First pitch is fun, but the crack is sandy and some huge loose rocks near the top. Second pitch was hard to work out the route, so got one carrot and one tricam in then ran it out to the top, about 15m runout at least, so be v careful if trying the second pitch you won't fall.
|
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Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Stephen, Chris Lam, Adam Cufer, Casey Nguyen
1
2
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
There is not a funner form of masochism than thrutching up an off-width!
|
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19 |
★ Cartwheeling
- with
Guilherme Pizzi
1
13
15m
2
19
15m
| 30m | Average | ||||
Second pitch is weird. Tried to go straight up on the slab at the start and failed
|
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Mon 31st Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Wendy Law
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
14
10m
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Went right at anchors out of cave instead of the original 3rd pitch which was a nice fun finish
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16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thunderstorm during the roof section made for an interesting experience
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Sat 8th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
13 |
★ Cartwheeling
- with
Sophie Antony
1
13
15m
| 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Absolute epic! Big day out
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Fri 31st Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Ben Day | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3rd and probably last time on the Spartan. Still my absolute favourite!
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Sat 18th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
19 | ★ Cartwheeling | 30m | Average | ||||
A bit weird but fun
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23 | ★★★ The Plunge | 35m | |||||
Shut down towards top. Nothing to work only a big reach.
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Tue 14th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Patrick Sparks
| 28m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Totally awesome experience; fun off-width to start with some interesting techniques, and a scary as hell second going under the roof traverse. Did well to keep the nerves in check, and was so worth it
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16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Christian Fane | 40m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First time leading it. Very happy with how comfortable I felt with the offwidth section. However, I placed Cams that I needed for the roof traverse, so halfway through that, I bailed and retreated back to the top of the offwidth, brought Christian Fane up to me, then got the roof on the second go. Just so so fun.
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Plunge - with Anthony Claxton, Hywel Rowlands, Breanna Slattery | 35m | |||||
Excellent climbing but man I need to train a lot harder to send this. Going from crux to crux to crux wasn't easy at the end of the day. The climb wandering around doesn't make it any easier either with all the rope drag. This has sandbag written all over it.
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Mon 8th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
12 |
Tyrannasaurus Rex
- with
Felix
1
12
50
2
3
| 50m | Average | ||||
P1 is average. P2/3 is contrived, no obvious line, wandering all over with minimal protection. The overhanging flake at the start of P2 is more than a 12...
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Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
12 8 | ★ Chimney and Wall - with the family | 36m | |||||
Nice little climb, but seriously, not even close to 8. Can't someone go through all of these old-school Bluies sandbags and grade them properly? Novice trad leaders are likely to come to grief. The 'big gear' on the second pitch = #4 cam for the anchor (right in the corner at the base of the second pitch) and a #5 cam (or two) for the short wide corner (which you can stem around and use the left face - no off-width technique needed), assuming that you step right and use the ramp after that.
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Wed 27th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Zi Hui Lie
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Second time seconding this. Got my time on the offwidth section down from 1hr to about 5 minutes, something about the technique just clicked. Need to lead it now
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Tue 19th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Tom Bes
| 40m, 4 | |||||
worst pitch in the mountains followed by the best. but the second pitch thankfully makes up for its ugly junk sibling below. ps i guess we bailed?
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Mon 18th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Jake Delaney
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
14
10m
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This is the younger sibling of Telstar. Every move of the Second pitch is amazing and pretty unique. Slabby offwidth you can bump a #6 all the way up, to cramped air walk with bomber jams to rebirthing yourself onto a ledge of joy. Rapped of the fixed sling after pitch 2. I even didn't mind the first pitch.
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Mon 4th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Sammi | 50m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting in part because you cannot see the business from the ground. The hidden offwidth was actually hard! If I was doing it again I'd wear socks and maybe an approach shoe on my left foot. Thank god for the #5 camalot I've been holding onto for 20 years and never using until now. The novel cord-slung chockstone belay could do with an upgrade to chain as it's only a matter of time before abrasion or sun gets the better of it.
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Fri 24th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
20 | ★ Toucan Café | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Reachy crux, felt hard for 20, but an interesting move. The start and end are average.
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17 | ★ Think Kink | 16m, 4 | Average | ||||
Delicate footword and probably hard for the grade, but not really interesting.
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Fri 10th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Patrick Sparks | 50m, 4 | |||||
Repeat. 5th lap I think.
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16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Anton Korsun | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Went for some night climbing with Anton Korsun. Forgot my shoes and chalk-bag, but still gave it a go seconding. Was stuck half a metre from the top of the offwidth section for about 10 minutes, going nowhere before I fell. Really hard.
Didn't find the roof traverse so bad, but it helped that it was dark so exposure wasn't an issue. Good fun but I have a long way to go in crack climbing. |
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Sat 28th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Has definitely grown on me and enjoyable to send someone unsuspecting up the second pitch 😂
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Sat 31st Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
22 21 | ★ Vinyl Idl - with Sammi | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Yeah I'd give this 22 at least. A bit awkward and oozey but worth doing (moreso if there was an easy lower-off). Easy to run out of plates with both bottom and top belays requiring them. No top lower-off (2BRs). I walked climbers L 50m to a perma-slung tree, rapped from here to vegetated halfway ledge, located the bolted lower-off above the Carthegenian and rapped here to the floor. Apparently you can also go climbers R to rap down The Plunge.
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19 | ★ Cartwheeling - with Sammi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice interesting jaunt. Second pitch arete was pretty cool with a few airy delicate moves.
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Sun 6th Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Rick | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rick extended pitch 1 to the roof, the I lead the traverse. Abseiled from the top of pitch 2 with a 56m rope.
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16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
rory
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally jumped on this! I lead the first pitch, linking up the off width. A big cam keeps it somewhat sane. Rory lead the space walk pitch. For some reason we had a backpack thinking it would be some kind of multi day epic, huge mistake. Had to pass up the bag in order to get up from the traverse.
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Sat 5th Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
23 | ★★★ The Plunge - with stefan | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Excellent technical climbing all the way up. Took a while figuring out the higher crux, need to start trusting my feet more.
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Sat 8th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
| 40m, 4 | |||||
Repeat
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Sun 2nd May 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan | 50m, 4 | |||||
Taking Cait for her first lap of the Beast
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
12 |
★ Chimney and Wall
- with
Siobhan Sullivan
2
8
24m
| 36m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky start followed by some amazing chimney work. Good holds both hidden and obvious with medium size placements. Felt harder than an 8, but shouldn't expect anything less at good old Piddo. Ran out of time so will return to do the second pitch. Rapped off the small shrub closest to the start of the second pitch (brown pants).
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Sun 25th Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Spartan
- with
Luke Yerbury
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
14
10m
| 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Holey dooley what an adventure of a climb. First pitch was pretty cruisey, a bit awkward to transfer up out of off width chimney ish corner. Second pitch of off width wasn’t to bad but the top got a bit spicy with a couple of near foot slips trying to figure out wether to commit to the crack or layback it somehow. The traverse was amazing! Being six foot four meant I was super bunched at the middle of the traverse but managed to work through it. Epic pitch of climbing. Top pitch is trash
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16 | ★★★ The Spartan - with Dylan Hemson | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Trad anchors so I got to lead all three pitches. A real adventure! First pitch was weirdly fun, second was a mixed bag: disgusting offwidth corner slab thing followed by glorious traverse in the roof with ridiculously good gear. Top pitch...yuck!
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Fri 23rd Apr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | |||||||
11 | ★ Cider | 39m | ★ Good | ||||
Plenty of gardening to be done up this route. Couple of interesting moves in the middle of the chimney. The lone carrot on this route was spotted just at the right time. Moves after the cave and ledge require some big cams if planning to use the wide crack for pro.
Not a super difficult climb, but has to be a little higher than a grade 11.
Take some slings
Fairly rewarding route.
Can be done as two pitches.
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