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Table of contents

1. Right Side 34 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.252599, -33.605625


The small area between Think Kink and Their Finest Hour

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Last Chance

Start: 11 left of P.

FFA: W.Williams,A.Stevens (Law,Carrigan), 1974

19 Trad 15m
2 Think Kink

Right arete of slabby face past 3 rings and a glue-in carrot.

Start: 'Arete' 2m left of LC.

FA: M.Law,K.Rosebery, 1976

17 Sport 16m, 4
3 * Toucan Café

Start: 1m left of TK.

FA: A.Penney,G.Bradbury, 1980

20 Sport 15m
4 Slape

Start: The middle of the wall.

FA: A.Gordon,M.Law,R.Taylor, 1972

17 R Trad 20m
5 * Rad Fem

Start: 2m left of S.

FA: M.Law, 1979

22 Trad 18m
6 Glass Asylum

Start: 2.5m left again.

FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980

22 Trad 20m
7 * Turkey Patrol

Start: 4m left of GA.

FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1978

20 Trad 18m
8 Their Finest Hour

Start: Chimney with block, cave and roof. 3 Pitches.

FA: R.Smith,D.Moss, 1965

6 Trad 40m
9 Tyrannasaurus Rex

Start: 10m left of TFH.

FA: A.Campbell,B.Osbourne,T.Tierney, 1966

12 Trad 50m
10 The Last of the Dregs 15 Trad 30m
11 Masochist 18 Trad 38m
12 Whatever You Like 12 Trad 35m
13 ** Merlot Madness

Harder and better than it looks. Start left of WYL. Straight up wall with carrots and small/medium cams to DRBB.

FA: B Cameron, H Luxford, 2008

18 Trad 30m
14 Chicken Hearted

Start 7m left of WYL. Supplement new bolts with a few cams. Up to ledge, tehn overhang and straight to top.

FA: H Luxford, B Osbourne, 1966

13 Trad 42m
15 Cider 11 Trad 39m
16 Gog 21 Trad 37m
17 Chimney and Wall

1m left of Gog.

An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.

  1. Up chimney 1m left of Gog to bushy ledge. Fun climbing with good pro. 12m (8)

  2. Corner then wall and ramp on right. 24m (8) Alternatively, finish as for Cider in bottleneck chimney above.

FA: J Ewbank, E Saxby., 1964

8 Trad 40m 2
18 * Marantha

Good but take care!

Start: 2.5m L of C&W

  1. 15m (19) 'Steep' orange wall to ledge under roof

  2. 25m (17) Directly up through roof and up wall above

FA: G Dowden, R Taylor, 1982

19 Aid 65m 2
19 * Corinthian


Start: Start as for Maranatha

  1. 15m (19) As for M for 8m then left up slab to ledge

  2. 25m (16) Diagonally up ramp to wall & up

FA: B Zemek, W Davenport, 1971

19 Trad 40m 2
20 * Armageddon

Better than it looks!

Start: 15m left of 'Corinthian'

  1. 21m (13) Up through choss, over bulge & up slab

  2. 15m (13) Left to wall & up cave, bush anchors on left

  3. 13m (13) Up corner

FA: J Pickard, T Tierney, 1966

13 Trad 49m 3
21 * Bon Voyage

Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base

FA: M Law, A Penney, 1979

21 Sport 60m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 * The Athenian

Start at 'S' (for the Spartan)

  1. 21m (21) Up right hand corner and up left into corner

  2. 24m (21) Right to cave, hard move to arete and up

  3. 12m (-) Up off ledge to obvious topout

FA: J Ewbank, R Reynolds, 1967

21 Trad 57m 3
23 *** The Spartan

Classic roof traverse above great space

Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A

  1. 16m (14) Thrutch up easy corner then up & left to belay at bottom of offwidth. Manky carrot + medium cams and nuts belay

  2. 24m (16) What you're here for. Up offwidth in left corner, carrot at top then traverse into space. If you're tall, watch your helmet at the squeeze. Up at chimney, belay there on gear or 2x carrots on ledge outside.

  3. 10m (14) Up and crank over side of offwidth, tree belay

FA: John Ewbank (Second freaked)

16 Mixed 50m 3, 1
24 * Twister

Hostile, good second pitch

Start: At yellow crack on opposite wall to Spartan (8m L)

  1. 25m (19) Up easy but soft yellow cracks, out left & diagonally up to ledge with bolt anchors

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse left to scoop & up

FA: M Law, R McGregor, 1977

19 Trad 50m 2
25 Brydens Route

As for the Plunge but traverse right and up through roof

FA: Ivalenta/ G Child?

22 Sport 40m
26 *** The Plunge

Interesting and varied climbing.

Start: Start at a rotten groove beneath a big, black wall.

FA: M Law, G Child, 1980

23 Sport 40m
27 * Corridor Metaphysics 20 Trad 45m
28 That 15 Trad 61m
29 It 13 Trad 52m
30 What 18 Trad 55m
31 Renegade 23 Trad 61m
32 Divine Right 12 Trad 20m
33 Valhalla 5 Trad 51m
34 Cartwheeling
  1. 15m, 13. Bolts right of Valhalla.

  2. 15m, 19. Bolts up right side of arete. Lower offs on both belays.

  3. Finish up Vinyl Idyl if you must.

FA: Ivan and Bob

19 Sport 30m 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Valhalla Trad 51m
6 Their Finest Hour Trad 40m
8 Chimney and Wall Trad 40m 2
11 Cider Trad 39m
12 Divine Right Trad 20m
Tyrannasaurus Rex Trad 50m
Whatever You Like Trad 35m
13 * Armageddon Trad 49m 3
Chicken Hearted Trad 42m
It Trad 52m
15 That Trad 61m
The Last of the Dregs Trad 30m
16 *** The Spartan Mixed 50m 3, 1
17 Think Kink Sport 16m, 4
17 R Slape Trad 20m
18 Masochist Trad 38m
** Merlot Madness Trad 30m
What Trad 55m
19 Cartwheeling Sport 30m 3
* Corinthian Trad 40m 2
* Last Chance Trad 15m
* Marantha Aid 65m 2
* Twister Trad 50m 2
20 * Corridor Metaphysics Trad 45m
* Toucan Café Sport 15m
* Turkey Patrol Trad 18m
21 * Bon Voyage Sport 60m
Gog Trad 37m
* The Athenian Trad 57m 3
22 Brydens Route Sport 40m
Glass Asylum Trad 20m
* Rad Fem Trad 18m
23 Renegade Trad 61m
*** The Plunge Sport 40m