A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Sport and Aid
Long/Lat: 150.252599, -33.605625
The small area between Think Kink and Their Finest Hour
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Start: 11 left of P.
FFA: W.Williams,A.Stevens (Law,Carrigan), 1974
Right arete of slabby face past 3 rings and a glue-in carrot.
Start: 'Arete' 2m left of LC.
FA: M.Law,K.Rosebery, 1976
Start: 1m left of TK.
FA: A.Penney,G.Bradbury, 1980
Start: The middle of the wall.
FA: A.Gordon,M.Law,R.Taylor, 1972
Start: 2m left of S.
FA: M.Law, 1979
Start: 2.5m left again.
FA: R.Young,A.Prehn, 1980
Start: 4m left of GA.
FA: A.Penney,J.Smoothy, 1978
Their Finest Hour
Start: Chimney with block, cave and roof. 3 Pitches.
FA: R.Smith,D.Moss, 1965
Start: 10m left of TFH.
FA: A.Campbell,B.Osbourne,T.Tierney, 1966
|10||The Last of the Dregs||15||30m|
|12||Whatever You Like||12||35m|
Harder and better than it looks. Start left of WYL. Straight up wall with carrots and small/medium cams to DRBB.
FA: B Cameron, H Luxford, 2008
Start 7m left of WYL. Supplement new bolts with a few cams. Up to ledge, tehn overhang and straight to top.
FA: H Luxford, B Osbourne, 1966
Chimney and Wall
1m left of Gog.
An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.
FA: J Ewbank, E Saxby., 1964
Good but take care!
Start: 2.5m L of C&W
FA: G Dowden, R Taylor, 1982
Start: Start as for Maranatha
FA: B Zemek, W Davenport, 1971
Better than it looks!
Start: 15m left of 'Corinthian'
FA: J Pickard, T Tierney, 1966
Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base
FA: M Law, A Penney, 1979
Start at 'S' (for the Spartan)
FA: J Ewbank, R Reynolds, 1967
Classic roof traverse above great space
Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A
FA: John Ewbank (Second freaked)
Hostile, good second pitch
Start: At yellow crack on opposite wall to Spartan (8m L)
FA: M Law, R McGregor, 1977
As for the Plunge but traverse right and up through roof
FA: Ivalenta/ G Child?
Interesting and varied climbing.
Start: Start at a rotten groove beneath a big, black wall.
FA: M Law, G Child, 1980
FA: Ivan and Bob
|6||Their Finest Hour||40m|
|8||Chimney and Wall||240m|
|Whatever You Like||35m|
|The Last of the Dregs||30m|
|16||The Spartan||3, 150m|