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Description

The area between Debbie K and Short Wave.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: 5m left on left side of arete.

FA: M.Law & L.Closs, 1979

Up crack and traverse right. Up to rounded knob at start of The Minotaurs traverse. Straight up finishing as for TM.

Start: Start at the thin crack on the ledge up and left of DK. (The same thin crack taken by Psychodrama).

FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1979

Up to roof and flake. Up. Traverse left to break, then up. Roof then up to ledge. Up.

Start: Start just left of the thin crack 10m down and R of Amen Corner (as for VotD). Quote "One nasty fall off the initial thin crack saw ripped RPs and the leader bouncing down the slabs below the starting ledge, resulting in nasty injuries." If you trust RPs in Blueys rock you need a reboot. Either boulder boldly or use a high runner in Amen corner Take care.

FA: M.Law & B.Weitlisbach, 1978

At half height where P goes left, crimp madly direct.

Start: Start as for 'Psychodrama'.

Start: Start 9m left of P, 2m R of 'Amen Corner'.

  1. 27m (18) Up to traverse line, right, up flake to bolt. Right to traverse line then to arete. Up.

  2. 22m (19) Up left to crack.

FFA: R.Vining

FA: (J.Ewbank (in rage) & J.Worrall.), 1966

Climb the face 2-3m R of 'Amen Corner'.

Start: 2m R of 'Amen Corner' (as for Minotaur).

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1990

Start: From belay 1 of 'The Minotaur'. Right to flake and up.

FA: J.Friend & M.Law, 1973

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope will get you to the ground on stretch).

FA: Bryden Allen & M Peddler, 1964

Good thin face climbing protected by good thin gear. Climb Janicepts to the height of its pod then move slightly right and straight up wall above following a thin crack feature.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

The splitter line 3m L of 'Amen Corner', initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains.

FA: John Ewbank (one rest), 1966

FFA: M. Law, 1974

Not great rock!

Start: 6m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law, 1991

Start a few metres left of Whores du Combat, up a move, traverse left and up. Rings all the way (rebolted 2006). Was a 'hard' 25 as a mixed route, maybe 26 on rings....

FA: M.Law, 1983

Start: As for 'Thin Time'. The right hand route.

FA: G.Child & G.Bradbury, 1990

Start: As for TT.

FA: M.Law & G.Child, 1990

Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

Start: 26m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law, M.Johnston & W.Baird, 1978

Start: Left of TT at cairn. Up then left around arete.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

Takes the steepish wall 3-4m R of 'The Kraken'.

Start: As for 'The Kraken'.

FA: A.Farquar, 1993

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send. Start 60m left of 'Skypilot'. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base. (1) 25m 21 Awesome orange corner crack to DRB (replaced 2013 - P.T). (2) 15m The chimney above is usually not done.

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1967

Start: 2m left of The Kraken.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1966

Start: Wide broken chimney 10m left of K.

  1. 12m (12) To ledge and tree.

  2. 33m (12) Bridge tree to traverse left, up left past scrubby ledge.

  3. 13m (12) 'Gully'.

FA: J.Ewbank, P.Cameron & J.Davis, 1965

Grey groove to arete and up. Corner and gully.

Start: 5m left of TB.

FA: M.Law & W.Baird, 1978

Up. right to rest. Up, then to arete and stance. Up.

Start: 9m left again.

FA: M.Law, J.Ewbank & A.Penney, 1979

3 pitches. Aid.

Start: 4m left. Vegetated.

FA: B.Osbourne & J.Pickard, 1967

There is usually a waterfall trickling down the slabs. About 20m off the ground, there are two parallel cracks a few metres right of the waterfall. The second pitch of 'Taboo' takes the left crack.

Start: Start 3m R of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (- M1) Up to roof and get over it using small trees for aid. Move R then up to small ledge beneath left crack.

  2. 30m (15 M1) Aid to get started, then up the obvious crack to the top.

FA: B.Osbourne, J.Pickard & K.Hore, 1967

Start: Start 10m left of 'Taboo' (7m left of the waterfall).

  1. 36m (-) Dirty wall and up to the pillar leaning against the headwall.

  2. 16m (19) Up the headwall past 1 bolt.

FA: (J.Ewbank & Carter), 1965

The next two routes start from the 1st belay of Idiot.

Start: As for 'Idiot'. Drop down, traverse left then up.

FA: Ewbank & Carter, 1965

4m left of 'Idiot' anchor. Middle of the wall, corner and wall.

Start: As for 'Idiot'.

FA: Weigand & Knight, 1981

Activity

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