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Description

The area between Debbie K and Short Wave.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 * Debbie K Trad 28m

Start: 5m left on left side of arete.

FA: M.Law,L.Closs, 1979

2

Up crack and traverse right. Up to rounded knob at start of The Minotaurs traverse. Straight up finishing as for TM.

Start: Start at the thin crack on the ledge up and left of DK. (The same thin crack taken by Psychodrama).

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1979

3
22 *** Psychodrama Trad 45m

Up to roof and flake. Up. Traverse left to break, then up. Roof then up to ledge. Up.

Start: Start as for VotD. One nasty fall off the initial thin crack saw ripped RPs and the leader bouncing down the slabs below the starting ledge, resulting in nasty injuries. Take care.

FA: M.Law, B.Weitlisbach, 1978

4

At half height where P goes left, crimp madly direct.

Start: Start as for 'Psychodrama'.

5
19 ** The Minotaur Trad 50m

Start: Start 9m left of P, 2m R of 'Amen Corner'.

  1. 27m (18) Up to traverse line, right, up flake to bolt. Right to traverse line then to arete. Up.

  2. 22m (19) Up left to crack.

FFA: R.Vining

FA: (J.Ewbank (in rage),J.Worrall.), 1966

6
24 * Melodrama Trad 35m

Climb the face 2-3m R of 'Amen Corner'.

Start: 2m R of 'Amen Corner' (as for Minotaur).

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1990

7
19 R Edge of Reality Trad 24m

Start: From belay 1 of 'The Minotaur'. Right to flake and up.

FA: J.Friend,M.Law, 1973

8
18 *** Amen Corner Trad 30m

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope required).

FA: Bryden Allen, M Peddler, 1964

9
21 *** The Janicepts Trad 27m

The splitter line 3m L of 'Amen Corner', initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains.

FA: John Ewbank (one rest), 1966

FFA: M. Law, 1974

10
27 ** Whores Du Combat Sport 27m

Not great rock!

Start: 6m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law, 1991

11
25 R * Daphne Trad 30m

Take care with pro and rock!

Start: 1m left again.

FA: M.Law, 1983

12
28 ** Old Stealthbelly Sport 35m

Start: As for 'Thin Time'. The right hand route.

FA: G.Child,G.Bradbury, 1990

13
25 ** Desiree Sport 25m

Start: As for TT.

FA: M.Law,G.Child, 1990

14
22 ** Thin Time Sport 24m

Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

Start: 26m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law,M.Johnston,W.Baird, 1978

15
21 * Starkosis Trad 23m

Start: Left of TT at cairn. Up then left around arete.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

16

Takes the steepish wall 3-4m R of 'The Kraken'.

Start: As for 'The Kraken'.

FA: A.Farquar, 1993

17
21 *** The Kraken Trad 40m

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send.

Start: Corner 60m left of 'Skypilot'. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base.

NOTE: Dodgy anchors REPLACED on 06/07/2013 - P.T

FA: John Ewbank, John Worrall, 1967

18
14 The Bugger Trad 45m

Start: 2m left of The Kraken.

FA: J.Worrall,J.Ewbank, 1966

19
12 The Bastard Trad 58m

Start: Wide broken chimney 10m left of K.

  1. 12m (12) To ledge and tree.

  2. 33m (12) Bridge tree to traverse left, up left past scrubby ledge.

  3. 13m (12) 'Gully'.

FA: J.Ewbank,P.Cameron,J.Davis, 1965

20
20 Poverty Line Trad 45m

Grey groove to arete and up. Corner and gully.

Start: 5m left of TB.

FA: M.Law,W.Baird, 1978

21
23 * Vanishing Point Trad 45m

Up. right to rest. Up, then to arete and stance. Up.

Start: 9m left again.

FA: M.Law,J.Ewbank,A.Penney, 1979

22
15 M1 Voodoo Aid 45m

3 pitches. Aid.

Start: 4m left. Vegetated.

FA: B.Osbourne,J.Pickard, 1967

23
15 M1 Taboo Aid 50m

There is usually a waterfall trickling down the slabs. About 20m off the ground, there are two parallel cracks a few metres right of the waterfall. The second pitch of 'Taboo' takes the left crack.

Start: Start 3m R of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (- M1) Up to roof and get over it using small trees for aid. Move R then up to small ledge beneath left crack.

  2. 30m (15 M1) Aid to get started, then up the obvious crack to the top.

FA: B.Osbourne,J.Pickard,K.Hore, 1967

24
19 Idiot Mixed 52m, 1

Start: Start 10m left of 'Taboo' (7m left of the waterfall).

  1. 36m (-) Dirty wall and up to the pillar leaning against the headwall.

  2. 16m (19) Up the headwall past 1 bolt.

FA: (J.Ewbank,Carter), 1965

25
11 The Piker Trad 52m

Start: As for I. 16m, down, traverse left then up.

FA: Ewbank,Carter, 1965

26
22 R Short Wave Trad 17m

4m left of I anchor. Middle of the wall, corner and wall.

Start: As for I.

FA: Weigand,Knight, 1981

27
15 * Cartogen Unknown 35m