A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Janicepts Area 28 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.253439, -33.603331


The area between Debbie K and Short Wave.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Debbie K

Start: 5m left on left side of arete.

FA: M.Law,L.Closs, 1979

21 Trad 28m
2 * Voyage of the Damned

Up crack and traverse right. Up to rounded knob at start of The Minotaurs traverse. Straight up finishing as for TM.

Start: Start at the thin crack on the ledge up and left of DK. (The same thin crack taken by Psychodrama).

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1979

21 Trad 27m
3 *** Psychodrama

Up to roof and flake. Up. Traverse left to break, then up. Roof then up to ledge. Up.

Start: Start as for VotD. One nasty fall off the initial thin crack saw ripped RPs and the leader bouncing down the slabs below the starting ledge, resulting in nasty injuries. Take care.

FA: M.Law, B.Weitlisbach, 1978

22 Trad 45m
4 ** Psychodrama Direct Finish

At half height where P goes left, crimp madly direct.

Start: Start as for 'Psychodrama'.

23 Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** The Minotaur

Start: Start 9m left of P, 2m R of 'Amen Corner'.

  1. 27m (18) Up to traverse line, right, up flake to bolt. Right to traverse line then to arete. Up.

  2. 22m (19) Up left to crack.

FFA: R.Vining

FA: (J.Ewbank (in rage),J.Worrall.), 1966

19 Trad 50m 2
6 * Melodrama

Climb the face 2-3m R of 'Amen Corner'.

Start: 2m R of 'Amen Corner' (as for Minotaur).

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1990

24 Trad 35m
7 Edge of Reality

Start: From belay 1 of 'The Minotaur'. Right to flake and up.

FA: J.Friend,M.Law, 1973

19 R Trad 24m
8 *** Amen Corner

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope required).

FA: Bryden Allen, M Peddler, 1964

18 Trad 30m
9 *** Risky Chicken

Good thin face climbing protected by good thin gear. Climb Janicepts to the height of its pod then move slightly right and straight up wall above following a thin crack feature.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

22 Trad 30m
10 *** The Janicepts

The splitter line 3m L of 'Amen Corner', initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains.

FA: John Ewbank (one rest), 1966

FFA: M. Law, 1974

21 Trad 27m
11 ** Whores Du Combat

Not great rock!

Start: 6m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law, 1991

27 Sport 27m
12 * Daphne

Start a few metres left of Whores du Combat, up a move, traverse left and up. Rings all the way (rebolted 2006)

FA: M.Law, 1983

25 Sport 30m
13 ** Old Stealthbelly

Start: As for 'Thin Time'. The right hand route.

FA: G.Child,G.Bradbury, 1990

28 Sport 35m
14 ** Desiree

Start: As for TT.

FA: M.Law,G.Child, 1990

25 Sport 25m
15 ** Thin Time

Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

Start: 26m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law,M.Johnston,W.Baird, 1978

22 Sport 24m
16 * Starkosis

Start: Left of TT at cairn. Up then left around arete.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

21 Trad 23m
17 Big Bad Banksia Man

Takes the steepish wall 3-4m R of 'The Kraken'.

Start: As for 'The Kraken'.

FA: A.Farquar, 1993

25 Trad 26m
18 *** The Kraken

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send. Start 60m left of 'Skypilot'. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base. (1) 25m 21 Awesome orange corner crack to DRB (replaced 2013 - P.T). (2) 15m The chimney above is usually not done.

FA: John Ewbank, John Worrall, 1967

21 Trad 40m
19 The Bugger

Start: 2m left of The Kraken.

FA: J.Worrall,J.Ewbank, 1966

14 Trad 45m
20 The Bastard

Start: Wide broken chimney 10m left of K.

  1. 12m (12) To ledge and tree.

  2. 33m (12) Bridge tree to traverse left, up left past scrubby ledge.

  3. 13m (12) 'Gully'.

FA: J.Ewbank,P.Cameron,J.Davis, 1965

12 Trad 58m 3
21 Poverty Line

Grey groove to arete and up. Corner and gully.

Start: 5m left of TB.

FA: M.Law,W.Baird, 1978

20 Trad 45m
22 * Vanishing Point

Up. right to rest. Up, then to arete and stance. Up.

Start: 9m left again.

FA: M.Law,J.Ewbank,A.Penney, 1979

23 Trad 45m
23 Voodoo

3 pitches. Aid.

Start: 4m left. Vegetated.

FA: B.Osbourne,J.Pickard, 1967

15 M1 Aid 45m
24 Taboo

There is usually a waterfall trickling down the slabs. About 20m off the ground, there are two parallel cracks a few metres right of the waterfall. The second pitch of 'Taboo' takes the left crack.

Start: Start 3m R of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (- M1) Up to roof and get over it using small trees for aid. Move R then up to small ledge beneath left crack.

  2. 30m (15 M1) Aid to get started, then up the obvious crack to the top.

FA: B.Osbourne,J.Pickard,K.Hore, 1967

15 M1 Aid 50m 2
25 Idiot

Start: Start 10m left of 'Taboo' (7m left of the waterfall).

  1. 36m (-) Dirty wall and up to the pillar leaning against the headwall.

  2. 16m (19) Up the headwall past 1 bolt.

FA: (J.Ewbank,Carter), 1965

19 Mixed 52m 2, 1

The next two routes start from the 1st belay of Idiot.

26 The Piker

Start: As for 'Idiot'. Drop down, traverse left then up.

FA: Ewbank,Carter, 1965

11 Trad 16m
27 Short Wave

4m left of 'Idiot' anchor. Middle of the wall, corner and wall.

Start: As for 'Idiot'.

FA: Weigand,Knight, 1981

22 R Trad 17m
28 * Cartogen 15 Unknown 35m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
11 The Piker Trad 16m
12 The Bastard Trad 58m 3
14 The Bugger Trad 45m
15 * Cartogen Unknown 35m
15 M1 Taboo Aid 50m 2
Voodoo Aid 45m
18 *** Amen Corner Trad 30m
19 Idiot Mixed 52m 2, 1
** The Minotaur Trad 50m 2
19 R Edge of Reality Trad 24m
20 Poverty Line Trad 45m
21 * Debbie K Trad 28m
* Starkosis Trad 23m
*** The Janicepts Trad 27m
*** The Kraken Trad 40m
* Voyage of the Damned Trad 27m
22 *** Psychodrama Trad 45m
*** Risky Chicken Trad 30m
** Thin Time Sport 24m
22 R Short Wave Trad 17m
23 ** Psychodrama Direct Finish Trad 45m
* Vanishing Point Trad 45m
24 * Melodrama Trad 35m
25 Big Bad Banksia Man Trad 26m
* Daphne Sport 30m
** Desiree Sport 25m
27 ** Whores Du Combat Sport 27m
28 ** Old Stealthbelly Sport 35m