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Table of contents

1. Janicepts Area 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.253161, -33.604133

Description:

The area between Debbie K and Short Wave.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Debbie K

Start: 5m left on left side of arete.

FA: M.Law,L.Closs, 1979

21Trad 28m
2 * Voyage of the Damned

Up crack and traverse right. Up to rounded knob at start of The Minotaurs traverse. Straight up finishing as for TM.

Start: Start at the thin crack on the ledge up and left of DK. (The same thin crack taken by Psychodrama).

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1979

21Trad 27m
3 *** Psychodrama

Up to roof and flake. Up. Traverse left to break, then up. Roof then up to ledge. Up.

Start: Start as for VotD. One nasty fall off the initial thin crack saw ripped RPs and the leader bouncing down the slabs below the starting ledge, resulting in nasty injuries. Take care.

FA: M.Law, B.Weitlisbach, 1978

22Trad 45m
4 ** Psychodrama Direct Finish

At half height where P goes left, crimp madly direct.

Start: Start as for 'Psychodrama'.

23Trad 45m
5 ** The Minotaur

Start: Start 9m left of P, 2m R of 'Amen Corner'.

  1. 27m (18) Up to traverse line, right, up flake to bolt. Right to traverse line then to arete. Up.

  2. 22m (19) Up left to crack.

FFA: R.Vining

FA: (J.Ewbank (in rage),J.Worrall.), 1966

19Trad 50m
6 * Melodrama

Climb the face 2-3m R of 'Amen Corner'.

Start: 2m R of 'Amen Corner' (as for Minotaur).

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1990

24Trad 35m
7 Edge of Reality

Start: From belay 1 of 'The Minotaur'. Right to flake and up.

FA: J.Friend,M.Law, 1973

19 RTrad 24m
8 *** Amen Corner

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope required).

FA: Bryden Allen, M Peddler, 1964

18Trad 30m
9 *** The Janicepts

The splitter line 3m L of 'Amen Corner', initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains.

FA: John Ewbank (one rest), 1966

FFA: M. Law, 1974

21Trad 27m
10 ** Whores Du Combat

Not great rock!

Start: 6m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law, 1991

27Sport 27m
11 * Daphne

Take care with pro and rock!

Start: 1m left again.

FA: M.Law, 1983

25 RTrad 30m
12 ** Old Stealthbelly

Start: As for 'Thin Time'. The right hand route.

FA: G.Child,G.Bradbury, 1990

28Sport 35m
13 ** Desiree

Start: As for TT.

FA: M.Law,G.Child, 1990

25Sport 25m
14 ** Thin Time

Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

Start: 26m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law,M.Johnston,W.Baird, 1978

22Sport 24m
15 * Starkosis

Start: Left of TT at cairn. Up then left around arete.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

21Trad 23m
16 Big Bad Banksia Man

Takes the steepish wall 3-4m R of 'The Kraken'.

Start: As for 'The Kraken'.

FA: A.Farquar, 1993

25Trad 26m
17 *** The Kraken

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send.

Start: Corner 60m left of 'Skypilot'. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base.

NOTE: Dodgy anchors REPLACED on 06/07/2013 - P.T

FA: John Ewbank, John Worrall, 1967

21Trad 40m
18 The Bugger

Start: 2m left of The Kraken.

FA: J.Worrall,J.Ewbank, 1966

14Trad 45m
19 The Bastard

Start: Wide broken chimney 10m left of K.

  1. 12m (12) To ledge and tree.

  2. 33m (12) Bridge tree to traverse left, up left past scrubby ledge.

  3. 13m (12) 'Gully'.

FA: J.Ewbank,P.Cameron,J.Davis, 1965

12Trad 58m
20 Poverty Line

Grey groove to arete and up. Corner and gully.

Start: 5m left of TB.

FA: M.Law,W.Baird, 1978

20Trad 45m
21 * Vanishing Point

Up. right to rest. Up, then to arete and stance. Up.

Start: 9m left again.

FA: M.Law,J.Ewbank,A.Penney, 1979

23Trad 45m
22 Voodoo

3 pitches. Aid.

Start: 4m left. Vegetated.

FA: B.Osbourne,J.Pickard, 1967

15 M1Aid 45m
23 Taboo

There is usually a waterfall trickling down the slabs. About 20m off the ground, there are two parallel cracks a few metres right of the waterfall. The second pitch of 'Taboo' takes the left crack.

Start: Start 3m R of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (- M1) Up to roof and get over it using small trees for aid. Move R then up to small ledge beneath left crack.

  2. 30m (15 M1) Aid to get started, then up the obvious crack to the top.

FA: B.Osbourne,J.Pickard,K.Hore, 1967

15 M1Aid 50m
24 Idiot

Start: Start 10m left of 'Taboo' (7m left of the waterfall).

  1. 36m (-) Dirty wall and up to the pillar leaning against the headwall.

  2. 16m (19) Up the headwall past 1 bolt.

FA: (J.Ewbank,Carter), 1965

19Mixed 52m, 1
25 The Piker

Start: As for I. 16m, down, traverse left then up.

FA: Ewbank,Carter, 1965

11Trad 52m
26 Short Wave

4m left of I anchor. Middle of the wall, corner and wall.

Start: As for I.

FA: Weigand,Knight, 1981

22 RTrad 17m
27 * Cartogen 15Unknown 35m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
11 The Piker Trad 52m
12 The Bastard Trad 58m
14 The Bugger Trad 45m
15 * Cartogen Unknown 35m
15 M1 Taboo Aid 50m
Voodoo Aid 45m
18 *** Amen Corner Trad 30m
19 Edge of Reality Trad 24m
Idiot Mixed 52m, 1
** The Minotaur Trad 50m
20 Poverty Line Trad 45m
21 * Debbie K Trad 28m
* Starkosis Trad 23m
*** The Janicepts Trad 27m
*** The Kraken Trad 40m
* Voyage of the Damned Trad 27m
22 *** Psychodrama Trad 45m
Short Wave Trad 17m
** Thin Time Sport 24m
23 ** Psychodrama Direct Finish Trad 45m
* Vanishing Point Trad 45m
24 * Melodrama Trad 35m
25 Big Bad Banksia Man Trad 26m
* Daphne Trad 30m
** Desiree Sport 25m
27 ** Whores Du Combat Sport 27m
28 ** Old Stealthbelly Sport 35m