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Description

If you do a route which tops out in this area, the quickest descent is the rap chains above Curtain Call (30m abseil - one 50m rope will suffice but be ready for an easy downclimb and don't go off the ends of the rope!). If you are trying to access this abseil anchor from above, take EXTREME CARE. It is a very exposed 20m downclimb (grade 2?), and any fall would almost certainly end on the ground 40m below. Consider roping up for this downclimb, or even hiking back along the top towards Horne's Point for a safer descent. This abseil descent should probably be more safely equipped, if the ethics police can be convinced.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
11 Imbecile Trad 52m

Start: Approximately 25m to the left of 'Idiot'. Left side of the buttress.

  1. 9m (11) Easy to tree.

  2. 27m (11) Up, mantle, right and up to ledge and tree.

  3. 16m (11) Left and up.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967

2
16 Infidel Trad 52m

Start: Corner 5m left again.

  1. 27m (16) Corner, roof and wall to rest. Wall and ramp.

  2. 25m (12) Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,R.Reynolds, 1967

3
15 No Static Trad 45m

Start: 7m left again. Right of arete.

FA: I.Rath,N.Mahunt,V.Burke, 1986

4
8 * Hocus Pocus Mixed 49m, 15

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best.

Start: 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab.

Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.

  1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware.

  2. Up slab, veering left and up.

Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes.

FA: K.Westren, M. Hailstone, 1964

5
13 Ra Trad 44m
  1. As for Hocus Pocus to top of initial slab. Over bulge, up slab to Hocus Pocus belay.

  2. Head diagonally right to top.

FA: H.Luxford, 1977

6
15 * El Dingle Mixed 52m, 3

Start: As for Curtain Call.

  1. 24m (14) Up to ledge then delicately left on slab past two manky carrots.

  2. 30m (14) Left into gully then trend right up arete past bolt to rap station.

FA: J.Lawrence, J.Woods, 1965

7
14 ** El Dingle Direct Trad 33m
8

Start: As for Withdrawal. Follow line of carrots right of the flakeline.

FA: Unknown, 2000

9
20 R * Withdrawal Trad 48m

Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up.

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

FA: M.Law, G.Harrison, 1979

10
21 * Riding Shotgun Sport 30m

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

FA: A.Penney, L.Closs, M.Stacey, 1987

11
18 ** Curtain Call Trad 49m

Start: Crack system to the left of Hocus Pocus.

FA: J Ewbank, J Worrall

12
20 Bumbly Bites Back Sport 30m

Start: 3m left of Curtain Call.

FA: C.Sloss, 1987

13
18 El Bungle Trad 17m

Start: 5m left of CC.

FA: A.Penney, 1978

14
21 R Beginners' Steps Trad 52m

Scary!

Start: 9m left of 'El Bungle'. Dirty crack.

  1. 30m (16) Easy to steep wall, right to block.

  2. 22m (21) Wall left of arete, then around arete and up.

FA: Law,Grey,Smoothy, 1979

15
22 M2 * The Second Last Act Trad 52m

Start: As for BS.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Moore,J.Worrall, 1966

16
21 R ** Quits Trad 65m

Start: From BS anchor 1. Leftwards.

FA: M.Law, 1978

17
23 M1 R * Stage Struck Trad 50m

Start: As for TSLA.

FA: S.Moon,G.Bradbury, 1985

18
23 R * Wrapt Trad 50m

Start: 5m left of TSLA.

FA: M Law, G Bradbury, 1984