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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Macciza a.k.a. Macca Vanessa Wills Will Monks Nathan Poole Tony Williams Stuart McElroy agent13 Bill Begg

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Table of contents

1. Left Side 46 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.253682, -33.601834

Description:© (mjw)

If you do a route which tops out in this area, the quickest descent is the rap chains above 'Curtain Call' (30m abseil - one 50m rope will suffice but be ready for an easy downclimb and don't go off the ends of the rope!). If you are trying to access this abseil anchor from above, take EXTREME CARE. It is a very exposed 20m downclimb (grade 2?), and any fall would almost certainly end on the ground 40m below. Consider roping up for this downclimb, or even hiking back along the top towards Horne's Point for a safer descent. This abseil descent should probably be more safely equipped, if the ethics police can be convinced.

Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Infidel

Start: Corner 5m left again.

  1. 27m (16) Corner, roof and wall to rest. Wall and ramp.

  2. 25m (12) Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,R.Reynolds, 1967

16
Trad 52m
2 No Static

Start: 7m left again. Right of arete.

FA: I.Rath,N.Mahunt,V.Burke, 1986

15
Trad 45m
Mike Patterson 8 years ago

more like 12 the way I did it..

Dean Heke 9 years ago

Juggy

Hide
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
3 * Hocus Pocus

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best.

Start: 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab.

Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.

  1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware.

  2. Up slab, veering left and up.

Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes.

FA: K.Westren, M. Hailstone, 1964

8
Mixed 49m , 15
R 7 days ago

Lead P2

Rod Smith 8 weeks ago

Escape route. With Maz, Karni and JB.

4 Ra

  1. As for Hocus Pocus to top of initial slab. Over bulge, up slab to Hocus Pocus belay.

  2. Head diagonally right to top.

FA: H.Luxford, 1977

13
Trad 44m
Tom wilson 2 years ago

rubbish slabbing warm up, rap bolts have been chopped so dont bother trying to find them. top out...

steven timbrell 9 years ago

much the same

5 * El Dingle

Start: As for Curtain Call.

  1. 24m (14) Up to ledge then delicately left on slab past two manky carrots.

  2. 30m (14) Left into gully then trend right up arete past bolt to rap station.

FA: J.Lawrence, J.Woods, 1965

15
Mixed 52m , 3
Rod Smith 4 years ago

Seconded Rick. Thin, run-out. Sport-trad.

Peter Davis 4 years ago

a couple of nice moves - little pro

6 ** El Dingle Direct
14
Trad 33m
Damien Haines 10 years ago

Much better than original with a thoughtful move or two

Will Monks 15 years ago

Another climb I am destined to always second....

7 Slab Right of Withdrawal

Start: As for Withdrawal. Follow line of carrots right of the flakeline.

FA: Unknown, 2000

19 R
Trad 48m
steven timbrell 9 years ago

crimpy

8 * Withdrawal

Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up.

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

FA: M.Law, G.Harrison, 1979

20 R
Trad 48m
9 * Riding Shotgun

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

FA: A.Penney, L.Closs, M.Stacey, 1987

21
Sport 30m
Phil Ward 2 years ago

A couple of big moves on the vert face.

Mark Betts 6 years ago

A fantastic line in the old style

10 ** Curtain Call

Start: Crack system to the left of Hocus Pocus.

FA: J Ewbank, J Worrall,

18
Trad 49m
Dan Theman 7 months ago

Nice route, few tricky bits

Chris Bentham 2 years ago

2nd it years ago, 1st shot.

11 Bumbly Bites Back

Start: 3m left of Curtain Call.

FA: C.Sloss, 1987

20
Sport 30m
Rod Smith 8 weeks ago

Nice route. Long time between drinks.

Rod Smith 4 years ago

WTF? 19. Dunno. Two rests. Freaked by rusty bolts. Sport. With Rick.

12 El Bungle

Start: 5m left of CC.

FA: A.Penney, 1978

18
Trad 17m
Mike Patterson 4 years ago

just another dirty slab

Mike Patterson 4 years ago

just another dirty slab..

13 Beginners' Steps

Scary!

Start: 9m left of 'El Bungle'. Dirty crack.

  1. 30m (16) Easy to steep wall, right to block.

  2. 22m (21) Wall left of arete, then around arete and up.

FA: Law,Grey,Smoothy, 1979

21 R
Trad 52m
14 * The Second Last Act

Start: As for BS.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Moore,J.Worrall, 1966

22 M2
Trad 52m
15 ** Quits

Start: From BS anchor 1. Leftwards.

FA: M.Law, 1978

21 R
Trad 65m
Steve 16 years ago

One of the best days ever! MEGA exposed, exciting climbing.

16 * Stage Struck

Start: As for TSLA.

FA: S.Moon,G.Bradbury, 1985

23 M1 R
Trad 50m
17 * Wrapt

Start: 5m left of TSLA.

FA: M Law, G Bradbury, 1984

23 R
Trad 50m
18 * Sidetracks

Start: As for 'Solomon' for most of 1st pitch. Right to belay on arete. take care! Up the arete joining 'Quits'. Finish up Q.

FA: W.Baird, 1981

24
Trad 50m
19 *** Solomon

There's 1 bolt at the first belay and 4 on the 2nd pitch - so take brackets if you don't know how to use cams.

Start: Start approx 28m left of 'Quits' beneath major right-angled corner.

  1. 20m (15) Corner to belay on slab beneath main corner.

  2. 31m (20) Stunning orange corner then left around roof. Chossy easy corner above.

FFA: J.Friend,

FA: (J.Ewbank,A.Campbell), 1965

20
Mixed 61m , 4
Vanessa Wills 6 months ago

Now if I'd turned the jamb into a layback I might have survived...

Vanessa Wills 6 months ago

Now if I'd turned the jamb into a layback I might have survived...

20 * Tipster

Start: As for S, past diagonal crack (Gemini) on left. Step left and up. Slight left and up. About 5m left of the arete.

FA: W.Baird, 1982

22
Trad 45m
Matt Mellor 6 years ago

rebolted on rings by someone, really nice route, 21, recommend

21 Orion

The face left of 'Solomon' pitch 2 and right of 'Tipster' with a few old carrots. Why the route description is never put between those routes is anyone's guess.

Start: Start as for 'Solomon'.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

25
Trad 56m
22 ** Gemini

Nowadays the leader can clean their own gear off pitch 1 by finishing at the anchors of Skinless Chickens, on the arete.

Start: Start as for 'Solomon'.

  1. 25m (19) Up Solomon's corner for 8m then take the left diagonal crack to blocks. DRB rap anchor.

  2. 26m (19) Often not bothered with. Left up the blocks, right to arete. Up.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1966

19
Trad 52m
Paul Thomson 12 months ago

Very good, but today is definately not my day for tickage. Cruisy except for getting established ...

Rod Smith 1 years ago

Yep. This time. With JB.

23 ** Skinless Chicken

The right side of the arete- Flight Line for the masses.

21
Sport 27m , 9
Paul Thomson 12 months ago

Awesome! Got this second shot after struggling to find the sequence on one move on the onsight (s...

Ben Jenga 12 months ago

Stella thin arête.

24 ** Flight Line

Start: 6m left of S. Left of the arete to arete. Up.

FA: W.Baird, 1982

22
Trad 54m
Hugh Russell 6 years ago

Not 23 but jeez...don't bother taking a big rack! With Rod. Bluies '06.

Peter Webster 9 years ago

cool position, nice move!

25 * Mossy Rections

Start: 1m right of 'Genesis'. Bolts.

  1. 25m (24) 8 carrots to ring anchor.

  2. 25m (24) Left and up wall past 3 bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy,M.Law, 1989

24
Mixed 50m , 11
Stuart McElroy 14 years ago

with MickyB and Stuey Gardner

26 ** Genesis

Best option is to link this into 'Cardiac Arete' for a real classic.

Start: Twin cracks.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1966

16 R
Trad 58m
Rod Smith 1 years ago

I'd seconded this before. Tricky lead. No. 5 and 6 Friends a must. Coooold hands. With Rick.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Rather tricky, especialy without many big cams

27 * Fibrillation

Start: Corner directly under CA.

FA: W.Williams,G.Wurth, 1986

18
Trad 40m
28 * Cardiac Arete

Best option is to start up 'Genesis' and finish up this route.

Start: Left of 'Genesis' at short wide crack.

  1. 20m (17) Crack, arete to 'Genesis' belay.

  2. 18m (17) 'Arete' with bolts.

FA: D.Fletcher,W.Davenport, 1970

17
Trad 38m
Rod Smith 1 years ago

Nice second pitch to Genesis. Led this before. Nice on second.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

NIce rebolt- still heady. Some rap bolts would be useful. Had a long walk to above Angular crack ...

29 Kokoda Trail

Start: Short chimney and gully to top.

10
Trad 35m
30 Cheese'n'Chalk

Start: 6m left of KT.

FA: M.Law,J.Smoothy, 1978

16 R
Trad 28m
31 Pkea

Start: As for CnC. Trees, gully etc.

FA: W.Williams,I.Peterson, 1971

13 R
Trad 33m
32 * Absolutely Curtains

Start: Thin corner.

FA: G.Child, 1978

22
Trad 18m
33 Fat Freddy

Start: 8m left of AC.

FA: G.Weigand,B.Jenkins, 1980

13
Trad 15m
34 Zot

Start: 2m left of Pkea.

FA: G.Weigand, 1980

19
Trad 45m
35 Babylon

Start: 9m left of Z. Scrubby chimney.

FA: W.Kilham,B.Smith, 1964

10 R
Trad 41m
36 Easy Street
17
Trad 40m
37 Evans

Start: 11m left of B.

FA: A.Campbell,B.Osbourne,J.Pickard, 1966

13
Trad 52m
38 * The Coffin Climb

Start: Thin chimney in corner left of E. 3 pitches. Take Care!

FA: J.Ewbank,D.Moss, 1966

11 R
Trad 64m
Mike Patterson 8 years ago

very.. err, Narrow Necky!

39 The Sexton

Start: 5m left again. 2 pitches.

FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1966

16
Trad 55m
40 The End

Start: 48m left of Sexton. Scrubby corner.

FA: J.Ewbank,C.Monteath, 1970

18
Trad 55m
41 The Last Act Direct Start
14 M3
Trad 25m
42 The Last Act

Start: 'Small' corner right of 'Encore'.

FA: J.Ewbank,P.Giles,V.Kennedy, 1969

17 M2
Trad 70m
43 Applause

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

20 R
Trad 40m
44 Encore

Start: 4m left of TLA. Corner.3 pitches.

FA: J.Ewbank,V.Kennedy, 1968

18 R
Trad 60m
45 ** One Up for the Wogs

Start: Roofs 10 m before the waterfall. Through low roof with piton and gear to ledge. Up and left into the line and up to chimney then through and right to the top

FFA: One of the Cosseys,

FA: J.Ewbank, B.Allen, 1969

FA: Macciza. free with rests., 2006

23
Mixed 70m , 1
46 The Masterpiece

This route will take you back to the Hornes Point descent gully!

FA: J Ewbank, J Worrall, 1967

20 M4
Trad 850m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 * Hocus Pocus Mixed 49m , 15
10 Babylon Trad 41m
Kokoda Trail Trad 35m
11 * The Coffin Climb Trad 64m
13 Evans Trad 52m
Fat Freddy Trad 15m
Pkea Trad 33m
Ra Trad 44m
14 ** El Dingle Direct Trad 33m
14 M3 The Last Act Direct Start Trad 25m
15 * El Dingle Mixed 52m , 3
No Static Trad 45m
16 Cheese'n'Chalk Trad 28m
** Genesis Trad 58m
Infidel Trad 52m
The Sexton Trad 55m
17 * Cardiac Arete Trad 38m
Easy Street Trad 40m
17 M2 The Last Act Trad 70m
18 ** Curtain Call Trad 49m
El Bungle Trad 17m
Encore Trad 60m
* Fibrillation Trad 40m
The End Trad 55m
19 ** Gemini Trad 52m
Slab Right of Withdrawal Trad 48m
Zot Trad 45m
20 Applause Trad 40m
Bumbly Bites Back Sport 30m
*** Solomon Mixed 61m , 4
* Withdrawal Trad 48m
20 M4 The Masterpiece Trad 850m
21 Beginners' Steps Trad 52m
** Quits Trad 65m
* Riding Shotgun Sport 30m
** Skinless Chicken Sport 27m , 9
22 * Absolutely Curtains Trad 18m
** Flight Line Trad 54m
* Tipster Trad 45m
22 M2 * The Second Last Act Trad 52m
23 ** One Up for the Wogs Mixed 70m , 1
* Wrapt Trad 50m
23 M1 * Stage Struck Trad 50m
24 * Mossy Rections Mixed 50m , 11
* Sidetracks Trad 50m
25 Orion Trad 56m