A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.253682, -33.601834
- Description:© (mjw)
If you do a route which tops out in this area, the quickest descent is the rap chains above Curtain Call (30m abseil - one 50m rope will suffice but be ready for an easy downclimb and don't go off the ends of the rope!). If you are trying to access this abseil anchor from above, take EXTREME CARE. It is a very exposed 20m downclimb (grade 2?), and any fall would almost certainly end on the ground 40m below. Consider roping up for this downclimb, or even hiking back along the top towards Horne's Point for a safer descent. This abseil descent should probably be more safely equipped, if the ethics police can be convinced.
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Start: Approximately 25m to the left of 'Idiot'. Left side of the buttress.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967
Start: Corner 5m left again.
FA: J.Ewbank,R.Reynolds, 1967
Start: 7m left again. Right of arete.
FA: I.Rath,N.Mahunt,V.Burke, 1986
The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best.
Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.
Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes.
FA: K.Westren, M. Hailstone, 1964
FA: H.Luxford, 1977
Start: As for Curtain Call.
FA: J.Lawrence, J.Woods, 1965
|7||El Dingle Direct||14||33m|
Slab Right of Withdrawal
Start: As for Withdrawal. Follow line of carrots right of the flakeline.
FA: Unknown, 2000
Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up.
Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.
FA: M.Law, G.Harrison, 1979
Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.
FA: A.Penney, L.Closs, M.Stacey, 1987
FA: J Ewbank, J Worrall
Bumbly Bites Back
Start: 3m left of Curtain Call.
FA: C.Sloss, 1987
Start: 5m left of CC.
FA: A.Penney, 1978
Start: 9m left of 'El Bungle'. Dirty crack.
FA: Law,Grey,Smoothy, 1979
The Second Last Act
Start: As for BS.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Moore,J.Worrall, 1966
Start: From BS anchor 1. Leftwards.
FA: M.Law, 1978
Start: As for TSLA.
FA: S.Moon,G.Bradbury, 1985
|23 M1 R||50m|
Start: 5m left of TSLA.
FA: M Law, G Bradbury, 1984
|14||El Dingle Direct||33m|
|15||El Dingle||2, 352m|
|19 R||Slab Right of Withdrawal||48m|
|20||Bumbly Bites Back||30m|
|21 R||Beginners' Steps||252m|
|22 M2||The Second Last Act||52m|
|23 M1 R||Stage Struck||50m|