A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 150.253463, -33.602600
- Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
- Approach:© (mjw)
This is one of the far left (northern) sectors of Piddo. If you want to start your day here (it gets sun a little earlier than the rest of the crag), it is possible to shave almost a kilometre off the usual walk-in by bush bashing in to the top and rapping in down Curtain Call (i.e. by reversing the fairly popular Hocus Pocus exit bush bash). To find the best place to start the bush bash, walk down the firetrail below the locked gate as usual, past the Boronia Point turnoff to the left, and about 80m further to the next small rise. Turn R into the bush here and follow the ridgetop due west for 200m to the clifftop. You may have to head 20m L to descend a small upper cliff; the hand-rope leading down to the Curtain Call rap chains is about 20m walk downhill from this point. If you navigate the bush bash ok it's less than 10 mins from the car to the rap anchor.
- Descent Notes:© (mjw)
Most routes top out in this area, in which case the quickest descent is the rap chains above Curtain Call (28m abseil - one 50m rope will suffice but be ready for an easy downclimb and don't go off the ends of the rope!). When accessing this abseil anchor from above, take EXTREME CARE. It is a very exposed 20m downclimb (grade 2?), and any fall would almost certainly end on the ground 40m below. Indeed, sadly there has recently been a death here. This downclimb now has a hand-over-hand rope, double stranded and knotted to permit a via-ferrata style sliding lanyard attachment. Unconfident scramblers should be aware of the limitations of doing so and should consider roping up to approach the rap chains.
- Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!
Start: Approximately 25m to the left of 'Idiot'. Left side of the buttress.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Worrall, 1967
Start: Corner 5m left again.
FA: J.Ewbank,R.Reynolds, 1967
Start: 7m left again. Right of arete.
FA: I.Rath,N.Mahunt,V.Burke, 1986
The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out, it's not too hard to climb it with packs on then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.
FA: K.Westren, M. Hailstone, 1964
FA: H.Luxford, 1977
Slab Right of Withdrawal
Start: As for Withdrawal. Follow line of carrots right of the flakeline.
FA: Unknown, 2000
Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up.
Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.
FA: M.Law, G.Harrison, 1979
Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.
FA: A.Penney, L.Closs, M.Stacey, 1987
FA: J Ewbank, J Worrall
Start: As for Curtain Call.
FA: J.Lawrence, J.Woods, 1965
|11||El Dingle Direct||14||33m|
Bumbly Bites Back
Start: 3m left of Curtain Call.
FA: C.Sloss, 1987
Start: 5m left of CC.
FA: A.Penney, 1978
Start: 9m left of 'El Bungle'. Dirty crack.
FA: Law,Grey,Smoothy, 1979
The Second Last Act
Start: As for BS.
FA: J.Ewbank,J.Moore,J.Worrall, 1966
Start: From BS anchor 1. Leftwards.
FA: M.Law, 1978
Start: As for TSLA.
FA: S.Moon,G.Bradbury, 1985
|23 M1 R||50m|
Start: 5m left of TSLA.
FA: M Law, G Bradbury, 1984
|14||El Dingle Direct||33m|
|15||El Dingle||2, 352m|
|19 R||Slab Right of Withdrawal||48m|
|20||Bumbly Bites Back||30m|
|21 R||Beginners' Steps||252m|
|22 M2||The Second Last Act||52m|
|23 M1 R||Stage Struck||50m|