Topo #13006

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Imbecile

Start: Approximately 25m to the left of 'Idiot'. Left side of the buttress. 1. 9m (11) Easy to tree. 2. 27m (11) Up, mantle, right and up to ledge and tree. 3. 16m (11) Left and up.

11 Trad 52m 3 Unlink route
2 Infidel

Start: Corner 5m left again. 1. 27m (16) Corner, roof and wall to rest. Wall and ramp. 2. 25m (12) Up.

16 Trad 52m 2 Unlink route
3 No Static

Start: 7m left again. Right of arete.

15 Trad 45m Unlink route
4 * Hocus Pocus

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out, it's not too hard to climb it with packs on then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist. 1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware. 2. Up slab, veering left and up. Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes, or even on a single rope if you think about which bolts to skip and which to extend.

8 Mixed 49m, 15 Unlink route
5 Ra

1. As for Hocus Pocus to top of initial slab. Over bulge, up slab to Hocus Pocus belay. 2. Head diagonally right to top.

13 Trad 44m Unlink route
6 Slab Right of Withdrawal

Start: As for Withdrawal. Follow line of carrots right of the flakeline.

19 R Trad 48m Unlink route
7 * Withdrawal

Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up. Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

20 R Trad 48m Unlink route
8 * Riding Shotgun

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

21 Sport 30m Unlink route
9 ** Curtain Call

Start: Crack system to the left of Hocus Pocus.

18 Trad 49m Unlink route
10 El Dingle

Start: As for Curtain Call. 1. 24m (14) Up to ledge then delicately left on slab past two manky carrots. 2. 30m (14) Left into gully then trend right up arete past bolt to rap station.

15 Mixed 52m 2, 3 Unlink route
11 ** El Dingle Direct
14 Trad 33m Unlink route
12 Bumbly Bites Back

Start: 3m left of Curtain Call.

20 Sport 30m Unlink route
13 El Bungle

Start: 5m left of CC.

18 Trad 17m Unlink route

Topo #3283

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Route Grade Popularity Style
4 * Hocus Pocus

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out, it's not too hard to climb it with packs on then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist. 1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware. 2. Up slab, veering left and up. Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes, or even on a single rope if you think about which bolts to skip and which to extend.

8 Mixed 49m, 15 Unlink route
5 Ra

1. As for Hocus Pocus to top of initial slab. Over bulge, up slab to Hocus Pocus belay. 2. Head diagonally right to top.

13 Trad 44m Unlink route
10 El Dingle

Start: As for Curtain Call. 1. 24m (14) Up to ledge then delicately left on slab past two manky carrots. 2. 30m (14) Left into gully then trend right up arete past bolt to rap station.

15 Mixed 52m 2, 3 Unlink route
7 * Withdrawal

Easy slab, slight corner, right onto slab. Up. Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

20 R Trad 48m Unlink route
8 * Riding Shotgun

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

21 Sport 30m Unlink route
9 ** Curtain Call

Start: Crack system to the left of Hocus Pocus.

18 Trad 49m Unlink route
12 Bumbly Bites Back

Start: 3m left of Curtain Call.

20 Sport 30m Unlink route
6 Slab Right of Withdrawal

Start: As for Withdrawal. Follow line of carrots right of the flakeline.

19 R Trad 48m Unlink route

Topo #13004

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Route Grade Popularity Style
4 * Hocus Pocus

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out, it's not too hard to climb it with packs on then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist. 1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware. 2. Up slab, veering left and up. Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes, or even on a single rope if you think about which bolts to skip and which to extend.

8 Mixed 49m, 15 Unlink route

Topo #13005

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Route Grade Popularity Style
15 * The Second Last Act

Start: As for BS.

22 M2 Trad 52m Unlink route
16 ** Quits

Start: From BS anchor 1. Leftwards.

21 R Trad 65m Unlink route
17 * Stage Struck

Start: As for TSLA.

23 M1 R Trad 50m Unlink route
18 * Wrapt

Start: 5m left of TSLA.

23 R Trad 50m 2 Unlink route

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