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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
21 * Disinclined Sport 45m

Start: Traverse from left to right.

FA: G.Bradbury & A.Penney, 1980


Start: As for D. Up Groove and corner.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

25 * Cant Sport 33m

Start: To middle of traverse then up.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1991

23 ** Flaming Youth Sport 35m

Start: Right end of the wall.

FA: I.Anger, 1980

24 *** Leanings Sport 30m

Start: As for FY then up. Rebolted 2004.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Weigand, 1982

22 R * Attenuation Trad 40m

Start: Around right from L. on ledge.

FA: M.Law & G.Bradbury, 1979

14 * Abra Cadabra Trad 40m

Take big gear.

Start: Crack 13m right of A.

FA: J.Worrall & .Devereux, 2000

19 Talking Italian Trad 40m

Start: As for AC to break, then left and up.

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1984

17 R Outrage Trad 35m

Start: 11m right of AC, small orabge corner under roof.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

17 * Cracked Trad 15m

Start: 27m right of O. Opposite the main cliff.

FA: M.Law & L.Brady, 1978

13 R Foot in Mouth Trad 13m

Start: Right of C.

10 R Kiss the Dog Trad 30m

Start: Just left of the boulder descent route. Take care!


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