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Access Issues: inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Disinclined

Start: Traverse from left to right.

FA: G.Bradbury,A.Penney, 1980

21
Sport 45m
2 * Boys Buckets and Bumps

Start: As for D. Up Groove and corner.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

25
Trad 30m
3 * Cant

Start: To middle of traverse then up.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1991

25
Sport 33m
4 ** Flaming Youth

Start: Right end of the wall.

FA: I.Anger, 1980

23
Sport 35m
5 ** Leanings

Start: As for FY then up. Rebolted 2004.

FA: G.Bradbury,G.Weigand, 1982

24
Sport 30m
6 * Attenuation

Start: Around right from L. on ledge.

FA: M.Law,G.Bradbury, 1979

22 R
Trad 40m
7 Talking Italian

Start: As for AC to break, then left and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,F.Lumsden, 1984

19
Trad 40m
8 Abra Cadabra

Take big gear.

Start: Crack 13m right of A.

FA: J.Worrall,.Devereux, 2000

14
Trad 40m
9 Outrage

Start: 11m right of AC, small orabge corner under roof.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

17 R
Trad 35m
10 * Cracked

Start: 27m right of O. Opposite the main cliff.

FA: M.Law,L.Brady, 1978

17
Trad 15m
11 Foot in Mouth

Start: Right of C.

13 R
Trad 13m
12 Kiss the Dog

Start: Just left of the boulder descent route. Take care!

10 R
Trad 30m